Grats to the Saints fans, that was a great game.
I'm excited to see some updates to these tanks too, did you get any workin' time in?
I'm excited to see some updates to these tanks too, did you get any workin' time in?
4' 90 Gallon converted to 240 4' Square Plywood and Glass Build
- Thread starter nolapete
- Start date
Worked on them some. I have to recut some of the side boards. I'm actually going to have a friend with a nice table saw recut all the side boards. I'll have a little waste, but they'll all be the same length. I could make a jig to use with my chop saw I suppose. Considering the number of boards I need to cut it might be worth it.
Ken cut all new vertical boards, cut some plywood sides, and cut the bottom plywood even for me. I'll be able to assemble the two 170 gallon tanks and put the glass in. The 160 and 215 need sides cut.
NOLAGT;3897522; said:
he is using pond coat, i always get it mixed up. and i forget that they are two diffrent products
I'll make it easier for you xdragon. The Permadri product I'm using is Rubber Coat. It's just another marketing name and is the same MSDS wise as Pond Coat. Just different packaging from what I'm told.
Here's what I've done so far in the order of completion:
Cut 2x3 lumber for interior frames
48" pieces for top and bottom
1/8" taller than height - (1.5" * 2) = 1/8" + 24" - 3" = 21-1/8" for the side pieces of frame for 90 gallon glass
Cut bottom plywood 48" x factory width
Cut plywood sides 48" x 24-1/8" + bottom plywood thickness
Assemble 2x3 frames with 3" deck screws. Only one screw per join is needed and no glue used
Test fit glass
Attach frame to plywood bottom on factory width. Used liquid nails in between plywood and frame and only a few 2" deck screws. No need to do any more than tack it because there will be 3" deck screws through it later.
Attach first plywood side with liquid nails between it and frame and on the bottom plywood edge. Used only 3 2" deck screws to attach to frame and one or two to secure side to bottom plywood edge if there's a gap between the two. This squishes them together until the glue dries. No need to remove screw after.
Test fit glass again.
Apply small bead of silicone to inside face of frame. Try to stay in the middle so when the glass is installed the bead is flattened but doesn't squish out. The silicone is just a cushion for the glass and adheres it to the frame.
Check the fit to be sure the glass is seated against the plywood bottom. We put the glass in place then I lifted it from the top and held it while Ken put the bead of silicone on the frame. After that I tilted the glass down into place. Have the frame that the glass is going on on the bottom and let gravity do it's thing to hold the glass in place after siliconing.
Weight glass evenly to make sure the silicone is adequately distributed.
Set aside for a few hours.
After the silicon is set, attach the other plywood side in the same manner. Set aside to let the silicone cure for 24-48 hours before working any more on it.
Cut two 2x3 boards for the top outside edge 48" and two 2x3 boards for the bottom edge 48".
Cut 4 2x3 boards 44.5" for the bottom supports.
I've decided to use 2x4s along the outside bottom edge to give more surface to screw the plywood to from the inside.
The top frame of the the tank will be 2x4s as well.
I'm working on the two 170s right now. That's the latest on my progress.
Pics soon.
Here's what I've done so far in the order of completion:
Cut 2x3 lumber for interior frames
48" pieces for top and bottom
1/8" taller than height - (1.5" * 2) = 1/8" + 24" - 3" = 21-1/8" for the side pieces of frame for 90 gallon glass
Cut bottom plywood 48" x factory width
Cut plywood sides 48" x 24-1/8" + bottom plywood thickness
Assemble 2x3 frames with 3" deck screws. Only one screw per join is needed and no glue used
Test fit glass
Attach frame to plywood bottom on factory width. Used liquid nails in between plywood and frame and only a few 2" deck screws. No need to do any more than tack it because there will be 3" deck screws through it later.
Attach first plywood side with liquid nails between it and frame and on the bottom plywood edge. Used only 3 2" deck screws to attach to frame and one or two to secure side to bottom plywood edge if there's a gap between the two. This squishes them together until the glue dries. No need to remove screw after.
Test fit glass again.
Apply small bead of silicone to inside face of frame. Try to stay in the middle so when the glass is installed the bead is flattened but doesn't squish out. The silicone is just a cushion for the glass and adheres it to the frame.
Check the fit to be sure the glass is seated against the plywood bottom. We put the glass in place then I lifted it from the top and held it while Ken put the bead of silicone on the frame. After that I tilted the glass down into place. Have the frame that the glass is going on on the bottom and let gravity do it's thing to hold the glass in place after siliconing.
Weight glass evenly to make sure the silicone is adequately distributed.
Set aside for a few hours.
After the silicon is set, attach the other plywood side in the same manner. Set aside to let the silicone cure for 24-48 hours before working any more on it.
Cut two 2x3 boards for the top outside edge 48" and two 2x3 boards for the bottom edge 48".
Cut 4 2x3 boards 44.5" for the bottom supports.
I've decided to use 2x4s along the outside bottom edge to give more surface to screw the plywood to from the inside.
The top frame of the the tank will be 2x4s as well.
I'm working on the two 170s right now. That's the latest on my progress.
Pics soon.
I'll be glad when I get all this auction stuff done. I can't wait to get back to work on these. They're what has kept me sane waiting on the weather to cooperate. It killed me to have to work on getting auction stuff ready to distribute with the weather so nice this weekend.
Coated one of the tanks last night to see how the Rubber Coat bonds to glass since some people were saying that they had trouble with it.
