40 gal set up
- Thread starter jaws7777
- Start date
I See giant danios... and what looks like a tiger barb? ..... I take that back.... the barb is a danioNope u were right the first time. Some barbs too hopefully a few of them survive.
So do you think I need to change how I have the filter . Should put it on the other side so the intake os closer to the middle of rhe tank
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So do you think I need to change how I have the filter . Should put it on the other side so the intake os closer to the middle of rhe tank
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So I move the filter to the other side and tested the water before I did the wc just so I can become familiar with testing and to me it looks like ammonia at .50 and ph really high what do you guys think ?
1) is high ph normal during cycling ?
2) after the tank is cycled and things are running smoothly how do you bring ph down if it does happen to get high.
3) what are some pointers to maintaining a good ph level
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1) is high ph normal during cycling ?
2) after the tank is cycled and things are running smoothly how do you bring ph down if it does happen to get high.
3) what are some pointers to maintaining a good ph level
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Good choice with the danios. I used them to cycle my 75 and not one showed any signs of poisoning or brown blood. I think they could survive a nuclear holocaust 
To address your issues:
1) never heard of high ph while cycling.
2) driftwood, alder cones, peat moss.
3) don't interfere with the ph of tap unless needed or else risk ph flucuations. My ph is 7.6 which is pretty high but I just let my fish adjust so when I do water changes the ph in the new water is the same (less stress)
To address your issues:
1) never heard of high ph while cycling.
2) driftwood, alder cones, peat moss.
3) don't interfere with the ph of tap unless needed or else risk ph flucuations. My ph is 7.6 which is pretty high but I just let my fish adjust so when I do water changes the ph in the new water is the same (less stress)
Also, when cycling with fish (you probably know but I will say it anyway) every time the test looks lime green do a 25-50 percent change. Which for me in a 75 gallon with 6 small fish was about every 3 days. Same with nitrite, when it starts to look indigo instead of dark blue do a change of the same volume. And I expect you know how to handle nitrates.
I 2nd the notion of not really messing with ph during cycling...a w/c of 25%+ sure wont hurt ...you ,as I said earlier can do it by test(And it looks just short of.5 to me) or just every couple of days ,,,with danios ,if you keep the ammonia down to.5 they should do ok...with nitrites you want to keep it blue...if it turns purple, w/c time
Thanks guys im gonna wc every other day but am testing to just become familiar with telling the difference in colors. I agree about messing with the ph but didnt know if ut would be an issue once the tank was established. I did the high range test and it looked to be around 7.4 or 7.8 today was basically the first time I tested positive for ammonia when so I shouldn't even worry about nittites for another couple of weeks right. Was playing around with the kit and tested tap too. Am I reading the colors right.
Tap 0 ammonia
High range ph 7.4 ish ?
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Tap 0 ammonia
High range ph 7.4 ish ?
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yes ...That seems right to me..you will find I think that the ph readings are a little tough to read.. ammonia is easy ,except the 0-.25 range..then it's tough(0 is easy but sometimes it's tough to tell if you have just the smallest trace or .25+)...nitrite easy ... nitrate is mostly easy, but the 10-20+ range is tough...but that isn't a bad place to be
