911, HELP! My DIY 300 gallon Goldfish Aquarium

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

Fix the aquarium by

  • painting the bottom with Pond Shield.

  • covering the crack with an acrylic sheet.

  • throwing it away... it is unusable!


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priceless :), i love u guys! haha..... all joking aside ....o.p. are you certain u can fit an entire new bottom piece in through the top bracing of the tank?? I would go with 1/4" minium... You still need 2 adress the crack properly with #40. Even if u glue all the way around the new bottom piece with #4 it is very unlikely it will last forever. Any missed spot will leak underneath and out the bottom hole causing a bigger problem since u wont be able 2 remove the new bottom piece even if its poorly glued in. I highly advise flipping the tank over and filling that said hole with #40 after the full bottom patch. The proper way to install a new bottom piece would b 2 glue over ur crack with #40 after its drilled 2 stick it on... then tip the tank at 45° angles using #40 to create bevels of glue 1/4" thickness one seam at a time all the way around the bottom. Some may say #4 or #16 will work but i promise u ur settin urself up for failure. been there, done that... Ive put tanks back together that exploded in peoples homes...this isnt my 1st rodeo... im currently working on a tank for a friend where someone put in a sheet of 1/4" black acrylic on the bottom and back walls... they were glued in terribly with #16 and water leakes behind the pieces. Theres a crack underneath the black pieces that leaks and no acess 2 repair it... much harder job than if that piece wasent there. I now have to repair from the outside and inside... basically make all new seals around the bottom and back wall using #40 bevels...


This process all seems like alot for u and ur contractor to comprehend.... I strongly...strongly advise u to have your contractor drill out ur existing hole using a hole saw made for wood that removes ur crack all together... put in ur bulkhead and ball valve/check valve and ur good to go. Paint ur bottom black as u wish and never worry again. I have a feeling ull make the issue worse covering it up and forgetting about it so to speak. New bulkhead and a hole saw bit may run u $20-30...
That's where it got me when she said she wanted to save money yet go the route of using a full sheet on the bottom. Great advice on the repair. Now what she chooses to do with the given advice is on her
 
Ok that was a dick comment I do apologize for that. Im just getting a little sick of people getting advice from experts and not listening.I do see that you plan on using acrylic now which is the only way to have a permanent solution to your problem. There is no need for a full sheet what I would do is go to your industrial area and ask the businesses if they have any scraps of acrylic or lexan and make a patch. It will not be noticeable if you patch it and paint it black
 
Ok that was a dick comment I do apologize for that. Im just getting a little sick of people getting advice from experts and not listening.I do see that you plan on using acrylic now which is the only way to have a permanent solution to your problem. There is no need for a full sheet what I would do is go to your industrial area and ask the businesses if they have any scraps of acrylic or lexan and make a patch. It will not be noticeable if you patch it and paint it black
I just don't think it came out the way you intended it too
 
Wednesday for mayor! In Wednesday we trust!

Rofl! u guys r killin me today! a wise old MFK wheatgerm wheatgerm once said... W.W.W.D.... ...helped him turn a 20' tank into two 10'ers way back when :)... Im no fish jesus...or mayor of the basement dwellers, but i do appreciate all the kind words... Just a loely MFK who's learned everything the hard way about acrylic repairs to fix my own tanks i buy broken/mangled and bring back to life on a budget.... so i try and help others refrain from making the same mistakes i have in the past. If u have an idea on repair...chances are ive already tried it and seen the results first hand... in my book, theres no better evidence/proof of failure or sucess. Water pressure on structures/materials is an interesting science i just cant get enough of. when u think uve harnessed it... itell come back to bite ya :)... all part of the game we play as MFK
 
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Well said man. No substitute for experience. Not everyone has the means to dump excessive cash into these things, so there's definitely a balance between saving money with diy and cheaping out. Gotta know when a repair will end up costing more though or being too risky. Anyway ya I agree sometimes you gotta try to make it work and then at leaSt you learn something if it doesn't. Harder to take risks when the life of a pet is at stake, so OP is already ahead by not having stock to preserve.
 
Seems as though all of you are just waiting at your computers with your twichy fingers wondering what I am going to do. Do you all have lives?

Anyway... @DaveMundy... my name is indeed Kayte. And I only wish I had the time to save up and get the "right" and "best" materials. But I have no idea how long my friend will keep his interested in this project. Besides, it is fast becoming the busy time of year for him so it would be wrong to take him away from paying jobs just to build this aquarium for little old me. As the opportunity is now, I must make the best of it.

W Wednesday ... I did take your advice and buy the 40. In fact I even visited with a Plastic Fabricator today. He told me to take some of it, put it in a bottle, and use it like it was 16 if I need to. Anyway, I ended up buying 1/4" thick black acrylic in three pieces. I am just small enough that I can fit through the windows on the top of the tank. Each piece was cut in a way that would fit through one of the windows. So I plan on getting very high tomorrow sniffing 40 after my friend puts the aquarium on the drop cloth I have on the floor. The pieces were cut in such a way that it will be a tight fit so I am sure I will create a few more light scratches on the inside that will need to be buffed out. Therefore I will glue/weld down the acrylic sheets on the the bottom. Next I will then sand down the inside of the tank after letting it sit for a few days and polish both inside and out with Novus plastic polish 3, 2, & 1. Then my contractor friend who is a cichlid crazy man and thus this ain't his first rodeo either will come back drill out the holes in the black acrylic, place the new bulkheads and intake strainers, place the aquarium back on the stand, and hook up all the plumping to my two canister filters.

BUT before I do any of that, my friend will drill a 1/8" hole at the end of the crack with the drill bit that I just bought from the Plastic Fabricator (yes... it says right on the package for plastics only). I will then fill in the hole with weldon 4 and hope that capillary action will seal most of the crack so that it doesn't become larger than it is.

I am still going to buy the Pond Shield. I think I might use it on the back inside of the tank even though I already painted the outside of the back with Plasti Dip. Or I may not use it on the back of the tank at all. I will sand and polish the inside of the back panel and make a judgement call then. But what I am sure of is that I am going to paint the inside of the wood planter boxes that I intend to use as an additional filter for the aquarium. I am going to fill the planter boxes with lava rock, and plant pathos plants and lucky bamboo for nitrate filtration. But that is a future project for later. I think I might first save up for a wet/dry sump DIY tank which will be way better than the canister filters I got with the tank.

Why you would even think, Wednesday, that I would fill in a 2" hole with glue is beyond me. I am not a blonde seeking scratch and sniff stickers on the bottom of a goldfish pond. But after spending a few minutes enclosed in the aquarium applying 40, I just might seek out stickers on the bottom of the aquarium! :) We shall see.

millerkid519 millerkid519 ... Trust me. If I could move back to Alaska, I would in a heartbeat. I lived there for my entire life and I miss it very much.

So there you have it, All. I have a plan and have bought all my materials. Now you are all free to ridicule it and tell me how my plan will fail and that I will one day come home to 200 gallons on my living room floor. Incidentally, I do plan on getting not only a water alarm that will be placed inside the stand but also the seneye reef device that will monitor the water level in my aquarium. If water is present on the floor or the water level of the tank drops below the seneye sensor, I will be notified immediately on my cell phone. Did I mention my renters insurance will cover my aquarium. And don't try and tell me that it won't. This is where I am the expert. I do insurance policies all day long. It all in how you present a claim to the adjustor whether or not they pay.

I am not the idiot you all think I am. Whatever! You all, after reading this post, will probably still think I am an idiot. I guess only time will tell. Maybe I will post a picture of my failure once a year so you all can see that the repair is still holding. You all are just absolutely brutal in your advice and very ridged in your thinking. I can see why Butch now stays away from answering people's questions about his product in forums. BTW... this may surprise all of you but he too recommended the acrylic patch method. He even gave me a name of an acrylic supplier that would give me a discount. But shipping became cost prohibitive compared to what I could get at the local plastic fabricator shop.

So there you have it. Let the lambasting begin! I am sure my whipping girl (my alter ego) will be entertaining to read and further educated by the comments that will enviably follow.

Cheers,
Kayte
 
no need 2 call me out...i kept my composure... played nice, and instructuded you in many different ways, whered u get the idea to use #40 and cut ur pieces into 3 so they fit through the top brace??? a thankyou would b nice, geeze lol... Ur "blonde" moment is just that... weld-on #40 is 99% acrylic as ive said many times already and would fill that 2" hole no problem making it whole again...u misunderstood... i could fill in that hole with #40 alone for u and no patch...sand/polish it back clear again. Thats the beauty of acrylic and #40...Ive repaired golfball sized chunks taken out of tanks that were dropped with the stuff using jigs but thats besides the point. Through all the jokes from others i still gave u my honest opinions/instructions as ill continue to do so even tho u were rude to the person actually helping you.

Some tips for glueing/using #40:
1. wear a resperator, open all windows in ur house and use a fan to create any kind of ventilation.
2. pop 2 tylenol/advil before u open the glue (may sound funny but i promise ull thank me after)
you will get nautious in there, it will burn your eyes and you need 2 move very quickly. Ive been inside dozens of tanks using #40, its not fun...
3. the "pot life" of #40 is around 20-30 minutes depending on ur climate/humidity and batch size...smaller the batch, longer the cure time... large batches will harden as quickly as 10-15 min especially in dry utah... ur not the 1st person ive helped in that state ;)... again work quickly, plan everything out before hand and have lots of paper towels on hand, its messy stuff...syrup consistency. what you spill/drop/drip is permenatly there.
4. when using an applicator bottle, again be quick... once it starts curing the bottle will heat up very rapidly, enough to burn your hands.
5. Remove yourself to fresh air immediatly! lol... im somewhat accustom to the smell but itell get ya haha...thats what the tylenol is for. killer headaches from lack of oxygen and toxins :)
6. When mixing ur glue try to keep from making bubbles in it...vibrating the container will release any bubbles in the mix. tapping on the sides of ur mixing cup also raises the bubbles to the surface.

If u have any other ?'s about mixing ratios on #40 let me know, i believe its 100 to 5... Do not mix up ur entire pint at once... it will harden in 15min or less. #40 will adhere to itslef so do a small test batch first 2 get ur feet wet, maybe go across ur horizontal seams connecting ur black acrylic pieces together 1st and go from there. The smaller batches will also take longer to cure giving you more working time. Buy more than 1 applicator bottle also. when the glue is hard in ur applicator bottle ur ready 2 mix another batch and pour overtop of previous work. I go by mL for measuring quantities of glue... measuring spoons/cups can be converted to mL and work well for mixing. Cups from medicine bottles sometimes have ml on them also u could use. Start with a batch of 50ml.... then batches of 100ml... anything more than that may harden 2 quickly for u and be wasted. Good luck and wear a good resperator! at the least tie a shirt around ur face. Glad an acrylic fabricator gave u similiar advice... uve been talking with one this whole time tho ;) . I have a bachlors in Industrial Design and run a fab shop specializing in acrylics and steel among many other things.
 
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