Advanced reefkeeper coming back into FW... Questions for Aro Experts

[ctoychik]

Thanks for the reply ctoychik!

What kind of SW filtration will you be trying? Skimmer?

For the tank size, I think I'll sell this one and get a standard 180 gal for a while (6' x 2' x 2' or 2.5' wide for 200 gal if price is right). I will be moving into a different house in the next 1-2 years, so I will go bigger then... real big Hopefully 8 x 4 x 2

I actually do not know what my LFS is building for my 8x3x2 tank. All i know is that it has a separate sump at the bottom (and there is a hole in the tank at certain level - then the submersible just runs the water through a bottom tank ... kinda like the one in your pix then) - the LFS thinks i have gone insane to use SW for FW - i did not ask them because i did not think they can do it - they did not offer it, because they did not think i needed it

I think it will be nice with no stuff inside the tank as visual obstruction (my most tanks)

 

[prskiller]

I keep my water level an 1-1/2" below the trim and my aro still has scrapes on his head. Full or low they are jumpers no matter what and will damage themselves whether it be on the top or the deco on the bottom.

 

[uting]

for the Tankmates
discus will work but I recomend Bichirs because they are kool! and friendly

 

[David R]

Can't really comment on the asian aro but if you are going to buy a different tank I would recommend getting one that is 30" wide instead of the 24" the 180g provides. Once your aro is full grown the extra 6" will make a difference.

Great advice! Although if you're planning on upgrading to something even bigger with in ~3 years then its probably not necessary.

 

[STUN]

Thanks so much for the replies guys! This is exactly what I'm looking for

David, I'm also thinking I'll jump into the 6' long 180... I can get one locally for < $400 (US) brand new, and the tank pictured was well more than double that. I agree that at least 30" wide is necessary for life, but I plan on providing him more than that once I move in a year or two... the tank I can get under 400 is 6 x 2 x 2, and by going to 30" wide is another $200... since this is just his "grow-out" tank I'm going to save that extra $200 I'm hoping to give him a 8 x 4 x 2.5 after the move - and I'll have the same company that built my reef tank build it.

Honestly I'd rather go with a canister filter, and I really like the Eheim Pro III Thermo Filter 2180. This would have all the equipment in one spot, including the heater! (I want to reasearch this more... I'm curious if the heater is reliable) This would also mean there are just a couple of lines running to and from the tank, rather than worry about drilling the tank or having an overflow box... I suspect this isn't the best route for an Aro (for a reef, it's by far the best though!) I've ran sumps on all of my SW tanks... they really are great... but IMO it's un-necessary in my application if you can utilize a canister like the Eheim 2180. The bioload will be relatively small, with only the Asian Aro for quite some time, and maybe a couple Discus or bottom feeders over time. Brichirs are a fantastic fish, and I have experience with them, but this tank is all about the Asian.

One thing I'm unsure about regarding canister filters is sufficient oxygen exchange... in sumps or trickle filters there is generally media exposed to air, and surface agitation occuring in the sump, whereas in a canister it seems all the media would be submerged, with not much surface agitation, plus its enclosed. I'd think this wouldn't oxygenate the water enough unless you agitated the surface of the water in the display tank with the filters return line - but being an arowana I know they don't like much surface agitation...

How do you oxygenate the water efficiently with a Canister filter in an Arowana tank?

I suppose one answer is hook up a Wet/Dry or sump

But do you guys think the aforementioned Canister would sufficiently oxygenate the water for my Asian?

 

[ctoychik]

The reason i don't use canister filters is because they need priming if there is power failure (and no UPS). Then if you leave the canister filter for too long, it goes anaerobic due to it being a "closed" system (so need to flush it?). I have an eheim (that i got from france) and it is collecting dust cos i don't dare to use it

PS: at the moment looking at building a battery that can last through a potential power outage - ATM only got air pumps that have in-built batteries (17 hours) ... i don't dare to use anything that can go anaerobic

 

[STUN]

GREAT point regarding power outage... that's something I always have in mind for the reef tank. Didn't even think about the canister losing it's prime!

So I assume you use a Wet/Dry or Trickle filter type style... do you have an overflow box in the tank, or PVC standpipes?

 

[Bderick67]

Canister filters do not need to be primed after a power outage.

 

[STUN]

Then if you leave the canister filter for too long, it goes anaerobic due to it being a "closed" system (so need to flush it?).

Could you (or someone) explain this further? Do you mean if you never clean the media in a canister all the bacteria becomes anaerobic? Or due to lack of oxygen?

Canister filters do not need to be primed after a power outage.

Now I like them again

I haven't used the things in so long I can't remember! The newer Eheims look really nice!

I also saw that Eheim has a "Wet/Dry External Filter" that appears to be a canister that 'breathes' and all the media is biological... maybe run one of these in addition to the Pro III Thermo 2180 for oxygenation and increased bio activity?

 

[ctoychik]

Canister filters do not need to be primed after a power outage.

Hmmm sorry, i must have got the type of filter wrong. In any case, i am pretty sure that the external green looking EHEIM that i got at home will stop and not re-start if there is power failure ... it need to manually pump it first.