Advanced reefkeeper coming back into FW... Questions for Aro Experts

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
ctoychik;2921179; said:
Hmmm sorry, i must have got the type of filter wrong. In any case, i am pretty sure that the external green looking EHEIM that i got at home will stop and not re-start if there is power failure ... it need to manually pump it first.
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Could it be that there is something wrong with that filter and that is not indicative of all canister filters throughout the globe.

I have 6 XP3 canister filters running all 6 have power removed at least once a week, everyone starts and runs fine when power is restored. I had 3 eheims models 2215, 2226 and 2026 and everyone of them started right up once power was restored.

STUN, if there is any doubt if this is an issue, start a thread and see how many people have trouble with canisters running after power has been interupted.
 
Thats a great sized tank you're planning, would look fantastic with an asian aro and a group of discus! Perhaps when the aro gets large enough you could try a school of small tetras. Someone just posted pics of a large jardini with a school of about 100 neons, and I've seen it done with a black aro too. Can't see why an asian would be different.

Honestly I'd rather go with a canister filter, and I really like the Eheim Pro III Thermo Filter 2180. This would have all the equipment in one spot, including the heater! This would also mean there are just a couple of lines running to and from the tank.

They're all good reasons why I like a sump set up. Plus the fact that you can clean it without disturbing your bio media.

rather than worry about drilling the tank or having an overflow box... I suspect this isn't the best route for an Aro (for a reef, it's by far the best though!) I've ran sumps on all of my SW tanks... they really are great... but IMO it's un-necessary in my application if you can utilize a canister like the Eheim 2180.

Drilling a tank and putting an overflow in the corner shouldn't be a worry at all for any competant tank builder, and I suspect you're capible of easily doing the plumbing yourself. I'm not really sure about what you mean by "unnecessary", with a little DIY it should be cheaper than the canister, and probably more efficient. Maybe a little more work to set up, but once running they're certainly a lot easier to maintain.

One thing I'm unsure about regarding canister filters is sufficient oxygen exchange..

 How do you oxygenate the water efficiently with a Canister filter in an Arowana tank?

I suppose one answer is hook up a Wet/Dry or sump :lol2:

Got it in one. ;)


ps. In case you hadn't noticed I'm a huge fan of sumps on big tanks, and would never have a canister on anything bigger than a 75g. Don't take my one-eyed comments as fact, I'm sure there's plenty of people who will rave just as much about big canisters.
;)
 
Bderick67;2921355; said:
Could it be that there is something wrong with that filter and that is not indicative of all canister filters throughout the globe.

I have 6 XP3 canister filters running all 6 have power removed at least once a week, everyone starts and runs fine when power is restored. I had 3 eheims models 2215, 2226 and 2026 and everyone of them started right up once power was restored.

STUN, if there is any doubt if this is an issue, start a thread and see how many people have trouble with canisters running after power has been interupted.
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it could well be a problem with my canister filter (if it is in fact a canister filter - i did mention that i was not sure what kind it was - lost the box and instructions ages ago ... looking if i have a pix of it). the reason i am not familiar with these types of filter is because they are not used here so widely.

Automatic restart after outage? that's great except that if you are not hope for long time (and without a UPS) then the filter goes anaerobic after a some time due to lack oxygen ... i am not sure that an automatic start-up would be a great idea then
 
One thing to consider with the cannister filters is that they tend to be VERY efficient on the pumps. A simple UPS from Best Buy or similar will keep them running for quite a while. Many of the sump pumps are much higher wattage and a lot of UPS supposedly do not like high motor loads like that.

In the event of an extended outage you can likely just remove the media from a cannister and leave it in the tank with a battery powered airpump/stone combo. Same for the Wet/Dry. I've read a cannister should probably have the media removed in ~1/2 hour of no power or you risk a bacteria collapse. You have longer with the Wet/Dry before it dies, but more than a couple of hours is probably going to knock your bacteria colony down quite a bit and cause you to cycle the tank again. Not ideal but there are ways around it providing you're there to catch it in either case.

-
S



ctoychik;2921986; said:
Automatic restart after outage? that's great except that if you are not hope for long time (and without a UPS) then the filter goes anaerobic after a some time due to lack oxygen ... i am not sure that an automatic start-up would be a great idea then
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the width is great and the height too but the length is pushhing it...
FILTER- my favorite filter is actually a combo i have a sump and an fx5 and for the sump if u dont want a lot of noise i would go with a built in overflow insteard of a HOB
TOP/CANOPY-
 
Hello, I'm new here therfore I need a lot of help from professionals. What demands do I have to meet to keep with my jardini (5") other fish if yes what kind?.

Currently I have in one tank one red devil, one paratilapia polleni and six oreochromis mosambicus?
 
Resurrection!

So I never did end up selling the tank and continued running my reef for quite some time. Now, however, I'm done. It's still up and running but I have sold all my coral and my prized Apolemichthys arcuatus to friends that will picking them up in the next month or so.

Here is the last video I took of the reef earlier this year:




I haven't moved yet, and don't plan on doing so as quickly as planned. I forsee the move being at least two years out. Now I'm back to my original predicament as mentioned earlier n this thread: Cycle my existing tank for the Arowana, or purchase a new 6' long aquarium...
 
So I found a great sized tank made by a local company, they call it a "205 X-Wide". It's 72"L x 30"W x 22"H. They also make one that is the same footprint but 26"H - the extra depth isn't really needed but it's only $100 more (although, it's only that much heavier too!).

The Aro I'll be getting will be between 7-9". Is there any real issue with placing a smaller Aro into such a large tank?
 
STUN;4353904; said:
So I found a great sized tank made by a local company, they call it a "205 X-Wide". It's 72"L x 30"W x 22"H. They also make one that is the same footprint but 26"H - the extra depth isn't really needed but it's only $100 more (although, it's only that much heavier too!).

The Aro I'll be getting will be between 7-9". Is there any real issue with placing a smaller Aro into such a large tank?
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There are varying schools of thought, but In my experience, young asian aro's do much in a smaller tank (i.e. under 100 gals.) and then moved into a larger tank later. If the fish is closer to the 9 inch mark, I don't think you're going to have any issues with placing him in the larger tank.

The dimensions of the tank listed above are good for an asian aro. When considering tank size, most people only look at length and height (knowing that aro's occupy the top of the water column and don't require a particularly deep tank). Equally important, though, is depth. The tank must be wide enough that the aro has ample room to turn, otherwise they risk a development issue called "gill curl." A 30" deep tank is good for even a full grown super red.

Welcome to the aro-world. It's a great place to be :)
 
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