algae bloom, what to do?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
2nd the diatom filter, I use a HOT magnum 250 with diatom powder on my planted 29 Gallon.

Using the water polishing filter and a pvc loop I put some diatom powder in the intake of the filter about 1/2 a cup or so and close off the intake and output of the filter till water in the pvc is clear again and let it run for a couple of hours.

I had one of the worst algae blooms, you could see 3-4" into the tank although there was no readable ammonia, nitrite and about 15ppm. Water changes did nothing I would change about 15 gallons every other day and it never put a dent in it, 2 hrs with this setup and the water looked like it had dissappeared.
 
MurderedOut;2742482; said:
i asked about this awhile back, and nobody really had much to say.


i have a 2 month old 75 gallon(fx5, rena 300w heater) with a really bad algae bloom since its a newer tank.

the tank is green cloudy so bad u cant even see the back of the tank.

i was recommended 50% water changes every other day, and only 8 hours of light. ive been doin this for the last month. And it hasnt done one bit of good. after 3 or 4 water changes it starts to clear up, but always comes back after a few days of no water change.

water perims are perfect, 82 in the tank, only 3, 5" bichirs. no sunlight, 8 hours of light a day. feeding twice a day only what is necessary.

im ready to throw this tank out the door. ive done everything shy of chemicals.

i even have other tanks that are right next to it w/ no problems whatso ever. change water on them once a week (50%).


what would you do?:nilly::nilly::nilly:
Sounds like my bowfront.... Still haven't gotten it to go away. Its a little less cloudy but not by much.
 
Look for something in the store to remove phosphates from the aquarium water. Pea soup is what I like to call it. I'm not sure the name, but it comes in pouches you can either place into the tank or into your filter that removes what the algae feeds on. I put one into a pea soup tank of mine and it was clear in 3 days. No chemicals, no expensive sterilizers, just a pouch of media. Like this. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4136+8057+5069&pcatid=5069
 
I used to get the green tint on my 55 so when I upgraded to my 180, I bought the coral life 36 or 40W (I cant remember which) and have it running inline with one of my fx5. I havent had green tint since. Actually the glass stays pretty clear also even though I read it wouldn't cure that problem. And my light schedule is 6hr light, 3hr moonlight.
 
Once the gren is gone you take the thing out of the tank and put it away... you dont have to leave it running 24/7. plus, its a handy design to clean up the water of you suspect disease or parasites. Run the submariner for a week, then take it out of the tank..... its self contained with its own powerhead and flow regulator, sticks on the tank with 4 suction cups. Easy... clean.. versatile. it can be run upside down, sideways... any way you please. you can buy a coralife turbo twist one that hooks up outside the tank. they are good too.
 
Nyquil Junkie;2744640; said:
Once the gren is gone you take the thing out of the tank and put it away... you dont have to leave it running 24/7. plus, its a handy design to clean up the water of you suspect disease or parasites. Run the submariner for a week, then take it out of the tank..... its self contained with its own powerhead and flow regulator, sticks on the tank with 4 suction cups. Easy... clean.. versatile. it can be run upside down, sideways... any way you please. you can buy a coralife turbo twist one that hooks up outside the tank. they are good too.


That works too :D
 
Nyquil Junkie;2744640; said:
Once the gren is gone you take the thing out of the tank and put it away... you dont have to leave it running 24/7. plus, its a handy design to clean up the water of you suspect disease or parasites. Run the submariner for a week, then take it out of the tank..... its self contained with its own powerhead and flow regulator, sticks on the tank with 4 suction cups. Easy... clean.. versatile. it can be run upside down, sideways... any way you please. you can buy a coralife turbo twist one that hooks up outside the tank. they are good too.


lol I thought I was only one here who had the submariner . It works great but its large and some dont like it in their tank even for few days as its hard to hide but it does work.

I use mine outside once in awhile on 120 gallon pvc ponds which have no floating plants .Its rated for only 40 gallons or so (I have smallest model)and yet works great . Takes few days but clears up green water so it looks like air.

mariner.jpg
 
26pets;2743460; said:
Sounds like my bowfront.... Still haven't gotten it to go away. Its a little less cloudy but not by much.


When I lived in ny I lived in an old built town which had pipes that leached lead .

The town made them "safe" :ROFL:by pouring phosphate into the water source thus coating pipes with algae . In theory they didnt leach lead if coated with algae.

Green water was the norm in every fish tank . I had a vortex diatom filter than which is fantastic but pain to use though only used couple hours weekly .

Maybe your tap water is high in phosphates?
 
Yeah the 9w submariner is bigger than that one too... its about the same size as a 1 liter pop bottle, and a little taller.

I looked at green water for weeks, so suffering for 4 -5 days with that thing in there was no biggie.
I couldnt SEE it in the back of the tank for 3 days from the greenwater anyway.
LOL
 
1.Turn the light off for a week,
2.get some plants (after the blackout) plants will compete with the algae for light.
3.phosphate remover
4.some snails (if compatible with tank mates)

I had a cyano outbreak in my saltwater tank it was all over in a fine layer of red.

I shut the light off for 3+ days, and it was gone, the snails just help to clean it up and maintain it.


Algae removing chemicals can harm inverts, so don't use them if you got any.
 
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