Am I Crazy or Could This Possibly Work? - Goodbye Water Changes

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I used a duel head master flex pump on my reef before, one head pulls water out, one puts the water in. Brute filled with saltwater and other head down the drain. It didn't mess with ato since adds and removes at the same time and the duel head ensures you have the same amount removed and added.

You could have a brute can with reminerlized RO water to put in, and the removal goes down the drain. Can mount this good deal of distance away since the master flex pumps have great head pressure - they are expensive but can find them on ebay used from time to time.

When I converted the system to FW I do something similar. We have quite poor tap water here in Iowa, so I have RO/DI water fill up 3 brute 55g cans with an avast marine barrel topper, the use both heads of the masterflex to take water to the system. The sump then has a line to the floor drain. I control the amount of w/c daily with the timer (on apex but doesn't need to be). Sort of like a drip but not quite - you could still use the 2nd head to remove instead of the sump drain and send to a reservoir of waste water.

I reminerlize the RO water in the brute cans with seachem equilibrium, and change about 25% daily in the system. Very little work and has been quite robust. I also have peace lilies and pothos in the external overflows, but has kept my 180 discus tank and 120 fahaka puffer tank (plumbed together - both have sumps) at under 5ppm nitrate with very little work. I have been really happy with the system.
 
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I used a duel head master flex pump on my reef before, one head pulls water out, one puts the water in. Brute filled with saltwater and other head down the drain. It didn't mess with ato since adds and removes at the same time and the duel head ensures you have the same amount removed and added.

You could have a brute can with reminerlized RO water to put in, and the removal goes down the drain. Can mount this good deal of distance away since the master flex pumps have great head pressure - they are expensive but can find them on ebay used from time to time.

When I converted the system to FW I do something similar. We have quite poor tap water here in Iowa, so I have RO/DI water fill up 3 brute 55g cans with an avast marine barrel topper, the use both heads of the masterflex to take water to the system. The sump then has a line to the floor drain. I control the amount of w/c daily with the timer (on apex but doesn't need to be). Sort of like a drip but not quite - you could still use the 2nd head to remove instead of the sump drain and send to a reservoir of waste water.

I reminerlize the RO water in the brute cans with seachem equilibrium, and change about 25% daily in the system. Very little work and has been quite robust. I also have peace lilies and pothos in the external overflows, but has kept my 180 discus tank and 120 fahaka puffer tank (plumbed together - both have sumps) at under 5ppm nitrate with very little work. I have been really happy with the system.
I'll look into that.
 
J J. H. Hendre Hendre RD. RD. The point of this thread was just if it was possible to achieve a low/no nitrate system that needed no or very few water changes with the listed equipment. I don't need it for overstocking, I can handle that with water changes. I just wanted to know if it was possible.

Another reason why I want specifically this equipment rather than plants if because I like to experiment with nitrate reduction methods; I've always enjoyed playing with new gadgets, and I find that it makes the hobby more interesting.
 
I used a duel head master flex pump on my reef before, one head pulls water out, one puts the water in. Brute filled with saltwater and other head down the drain. It didn't mess with ato since adds and removes at the same time and the duel head ensures you have the same amount removed and added.

You could have a brute can with reminerlized RO water to put in, and the removal goes down the drain. Can mount this good deal of distance away since the master flex pumps have great head pressure - they are expensive but can find them on ebay used from time to time.

When I converted the system to FW I do something similar. We have quite poor tap water here in Iowa, so I have RO/DI water fill up 3 brute 55g cans with an avast marine barrel topper, the use both heads of the masterflex to take water to the system. The sump then has a line to the floor drain. I control the amount of w/c daily with the timer (on apex but doesn't need to be). Sort of like a drip but not quite - you could still use the 2nd head to remove instead of the sump drain and send to a reservoir of waste water.

I reminerlize the RO water in the brute cans with seachem equilibrium, and change about 25% daily in the system. Very little work and has been quite robust. I also have peace lilies and pothos in the external overflows, but has kept my 180 discus tank and 120 fahaka puffer tank (plumbed together - both have sumps) at under 5ppm nitrate with very little work. I have been really happy with the system.
This sounds great.
 
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I can't wrap my head around why a drip system is not allowed, especially in a basement.

Is there not a sump pump or drain in the basement?

For my tanks in the basement I have PVC running around the perimeter of the walls that runs do the floor drain, and at each tank I have PVC running to it. I then have remineralized water in bins. Drain tank by turning a valve, fill tanks back up by turning the pump on.

If you have a drip system you just make an emergency overflow that goes to a drain.
 
I can't wrap my head around why a drip system is not allowed, especially in a basement.

Is there not a sump pump or drain in the basement?


For my tanks in the basement I have PVC running around the perimeter of the walls that runs do the floor drain, and at each tank I have PVC running to it. I then have remineralized water in bins. Drain tank by turning a valve, fill tanks back up by turning the pump on.

If you have a drip system you just make an emergency overflow that goes to a drain.
+1
It sounds as if it's one of those weird dad because I said so things.
 
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I can't wrap my head around why a drip system is not allowed, especially in a basement.

Is there not a sump pump or drain in the basement?

For my tanks in the basement I have PVC running around the perimeter of the walls that runs do the floor drain, and at each tank I have PVC running to it. I then have remineralized water in bins. Drain tank by turning a valve, fill tanks back up by turning the pump on.

If you have a drip system you just make an emergency overflow that goes to a drain.


Yes, in my last house my basement would have been perfect for an auto drip exactly for the reasons you stated.
 
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