arkmann;915233; said:
the reading will be half.... if the test reads 3 ppm in 50/50 you must x2
so 3ppm x 2= 6 ppm in tank for example
Ammonia Readings
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the reading will be half.... if the test reads 3 ppm in 50/50 you must x2
so 3ppm x 2= 6 ppm in tank for example
I did johnptc's advice and from what I found out, I have 10ppm. The color scale read 5ppm.
I also called the manufacturer, got transferred to the technical department and as I expected, they did not know squat! They did not know what the reading was for the color that I am getting. I was told to get a sample from my LFS and test it and see if I get a different result on their water. If i'll do that, I'll just bring a sample to my local fish store and have it tested as well.
They also told me that it might be too old like another post in this thread said. Unfortunately, I cannot get a replacement because the item was bought off ebay.
Oh well... On a good note, my nitrate reading is 10ppm. What concentration can be considered as a spike in nitrate levels?
By the way, I started cycling on the 2nd of June and almost two weeks into it. What is a reasonable time frame to stop cycling assuming that my bacteria would not be able to catch up with the ammonia levels due to its extremely high concentration in the tank?
I also called the manufacturer, got transferred to the technical department and as I expected, they did not know squat! They did not know what the reading was for the color that I am getting. I was told to get a sample from my LFS and test it and see if I get a different result on their water. If i'll do that, I'll just bring a sample to my local fish store and have it tested as well.
They also told me that it might be too old like another post in this thread said. Unfortunately, I cannot get a replacement because the item was bought off ebay.
Oh well... On a good note, my nitrate reading is 10ppm. What concentration can be considered as a spike in nitrate levels?
By the way, I started cycling on the 2nd of June and almost two weeks into it. What is a reasonable time frame to stop cycling assuming that my bacteria would not be able to catch up with the ammonia levels due to its extremely high concentration in the tank?
arkmann;918086; said:I did johnptc's advice and from what I found out, I have 10ppm. The color scale read 5ppm.
I also called the manufacturer, got transferred to the technical department and as I expected, they did not know squat! They did not know what the reading was for the color that I am getting. I was told to get a sample from my LFS and test it and see if I get a different result on their water. If i'll do that, I'll just bring a sample to my local fish store and have it tested as well.
They also told me that it might be too old like another post in this thread said. Unfortunately, I cannot get a replacement because the item was bought off ebay.
Oh well... On a good note, my nitrate reading is 10ppm. What concentration can be considered as a spike in nitrate levels?
By the way, I started cycling on the 2nd of June and almost two weeks into it. What is a reasonable time frame to stop cycling assuming that my bacteria would not be able to catch up with the ammonia levels due to its extremely high concentration in the tank?
wait for nitrite=0 but you may want to add 1 or 2 ppm ammonia to keep feeding the filter ( if ammonia goes to zero after the nitrite spikes and then goes to zero) and when nitrite=0 after spike
wait a day before adding fish and do a water change
nitrates dont spike they keep going up until a water change
there's plenty of ammonia on the tank...
For some reason, I think it is very unlikely that the ammonia will drop to 0 because of its high concentration but I know that eventually it will. Hopefully it happens faster...
I guess I'll just sit it out. But I still want to know my ammonia levels so I'll bring a sample to my LFS.
Thanks for all your help john.
For some reason, I think it is very unlikely that the ammonia will drop to 0 because of its high concentration but I know that eventually it will. Hopefully it happens faster...
I guess I'll just sit it out. But I still want to know my ammonia levels so I'll bring a sample to my LFS.
Thanks for all your help john.
arkmann;918217; said:there's plenty of ammonia on the tank...
For some reason, I think it is very unlikely that the ammonia will drop to 0 because of its high concentration but I know that eventually it will. Hopefully it happens faster...
I guess I'll just sit it out. But I still want to know my ammonia levels so I'll bring a sample to my LFS.
Thanks for all your help john.
double check with lfs.... you might want to bring a 50 50 mix so it does go off scale....
i think once the bio really kicks in it will eat up all the ammonia.... maybe a few extra days........
I went to Buzz's Pet Store in Torrance and asked for a water sample from one of their tanks. My master test kit is working ok based on the results that I got from their water compared to mine.
LFS My Fish Tank
pH = 7.0 ph = 8.0
Alk = 2.3 Alk = 2.3
Ammonia = 0.25 Ammonia = > 10
NO2 = 0.2 NO2 = > 1
NO3 = 10 NO3 = 50
I'm getting anxious to get the cycling done, I am seriously considering a water change over the weekend in order to get a 5ppm ammonia concentration. My cycling well be on its second week on saturday...
LFS My Fish Tank
pH = 7.0 ph = 8.0
Alk = 2.3 Alk = 2.3
Ammonia = 0.25 Ammonia = > 10
NO2 = 0.2 NO2 = > 1
NO3 = 10 NO3 = 50
I'm getting anxious to get the cycling done, I am seriously considering a water change over the weekend in order to get a 5ppm ammonia concentration. My cycling well be on its second week on saturday...
arkmann;919213; said:I went to Buzz's Pet Store in Torrance and asked for a water sample from one of their tanks. My master test kit is working ok based on the results that I got from their water compared to mine.
LFS My Fish Tank
pH = 7.0 ph = 8.0
Alk = 2.3 Alk = 2.3
Ammonia = 0.25 Ammonia = > 10
NO2 = 0.2 NO2 = > 1
NO3 = 10 NO3 = 50
I'm getting anxious to get the cycling done, I am seriously considering a water change over the weekend in order to get a 5ppm ammonia concentration. My cycling well be on its second week on saturday...
a water change will reduce the nitrite as well.....not good
Here are my new tank levels after 2 weeks of fishless cycling.
pH = 7.6
Alk = 1.0
Temp = 75F
Ammonia = 2.5
NO2 = >1
NO3 = 250
As you can see, the bactaeria did not disapoint. I started with probably 13ppm ammonia reading and now its down to 2.5. I am now wondering as to how long should I extend my cycling period if I should extend it at all?
I am thinking of cycling it for one more week. I am thinking of adding more ammonia to it and then just sit it out until ammonia and nitrite readings become zero.
What are your suggestions? Should I just wait unitl ammonia and nitrite readings are zero? I'm assuming that the ammonia readings will be zero in two days if not by tomorrow. It jumped from 10ppm to 2.5ppm in 3 days! That was quick.
pH = 7.6
Alk = 1.0
Temp = 75F
Ammonia = 2.5
NO2 = >1
NO3 = 250
As you can see, the bactaeria did not disapoint. I started with probably 13ppm ammonia reading and now its down to 2.5. I am now wondering as to how long should I extend my cycling period if I should extend it at all?
I am thinking of cycling it for one more week. I am thinking of adding more ammonia to it and then just sit it out until ammonia and nitrite readings become zero.
What are your suggestions? Should I just wait unitl ammonia and nitrite readings are zero? I'm assuming that the ammonia readings will be zero in two days if not by tomorrow. It jumped from 10ppm to 2.5ppm in 3 days! That was quick.
arkmann;924494; said:It jumped from 10ppm to 2.5ppm in 3 days! That was quick.
Given sufficient space and conditions the bacteria population will grow at a near exponential rate untill the food/space is used up, I'd keep a source of ammonia in the tank (small dead fish/shrimp ect) to keep the BB fed until you are ready to introduce your fish.
