You bring up a good point. I think what I may do to save some time and effort is to start with an opening of similar dimensions (width) to the DART overflow kit that Glass-Holes makes since I know that can handle the 3600gph that pump will put out. I'm planning on having the skimmer run as much of the width of the tank as I can to maximize the skimming area that it's working on and that may necessitate either locating the emergency overflow on a different face of the tank (like between the two returns or on the back) or having the bulkhead in the tank low and have it come up along the plumbing for the return at the back of the tank..
Another 240 Gal Sump question.
- Thread starter VFX_Bishop
- Start date
So I looked and I'll have with one bar 36" of skimmer as compaired to the 25" of the DART overflow with a 1/4 of the pipe cut-out of a 1-1/2" PVC run. That should be more than enough for overflow for what I'm planning with a return pump. I'm on a bit of a time table for building this thing and getting it full of water so I'll be using three 1-1/2" bulkheads for the drain side, since going to 2" bulkheads trippled the cost at the local hardware store, and 1-1/4" bulkheads for the return-side, though the pumps I believe have a 1" out, I'll have to check. Either way I can adapt the plumbing I have immediate access to. I'll probably have the tank on the stand tomorrow and hopefully have it plumbed tomorrow evening. I'll do a test fill probably on Tuesday and see if this overflow can handle the input from a garden hose since I won't have any pump that would be close to pushing a few thousand gallons per hour.
Picks of the Stand build - only the posts in the 4 corners and the "box" itself are secure, the rest of the wood is in for spacing purposes.
Here we go. The stand was finished and the tank placed atop it. There was an 11th hour decision to actually move the sump behind what will be this tank's neighbor tank. which will be a 55 gal AGA River system tank. So the sump will be again a 55 gallon tank which is not directly under the tank but on the "upstream" side of the tank which will be nice since it'll make plumbing the return pump a nice straight shot into the tank instead of needing to make a long lateral run.
Anyway, pictures of all that happened today.
Stand upside down with the "box" built and ready to be flipped.
Not all of the posts were cooperating and required a little more ummm... convincing to get the bottom of the stand on.
A shot of me making a face while figuring out where I was going to cut the bulkheads for the overflow.
Shot of the skimmer bar. 1-1/2" PVC
Anyway, pictures of all that happened today.
Stand upside down with the "box" built and ready to be flipped.
Not all of the posts were cooperating and required a little more ummm... convincing to get the bottom of the stand on.
A shot of me making a face while figuring out where I was going to cut the bulkheads for the overflow.
Shot of the skimmer bar. 1-1/2" PVC
Overflow installed!
Shot of the business end of the bulkheads.
Underside of the completed stand.
Shot of the business end of the bulkheads.
Underside of the completed stand.
It should be noted that I realize that the bulkheads are installed backwards. This is an artifact of the cutting tool I used to cut the holes in the acrylic which made it so that the non-threaded portion of the bulkheads didn't fit through the holes. I'll be correcting this issue tomorrow evening with the use of a Dremel or similar high-speed tool to widen the holes just a little bit to allow the bulkheads to be installed properly.
I do have a question though about bulkhead installation. I know the flanged piece goes inside the the tank but the bulkheads I bought came with a rubber seal and a plastic washer in addition to the tightening nut and I don't know if the washer goes on the inside for whatever reason or the outside to protect the wall of what's being effectively crushed between the flange and the nut.
I do have a question though about bulkhead installation. I know the flanged piece goes inside the the tank but the bulkheads I bought came with a rubber seal and a plastic washer in addition to the tightening nut and I don't know if the washer goes on the inside for whatever reason or the outside to protect the wall of what's being effectively crushed between the flange and the nut.
Rubber gasket seal goes on the inside of the tank with the crush rings facing the acrylic panel and the smooth of your gasket facing your front bulkhead fitting. This is where the sealing occurs. The other plastic washer should be smooth on both sides. Place the washer over the threading on the outside of the tank flush up against the acrylic panel. Tighten the nut as much as you can by hand. Normally a 1/4 turn past the point that it begins to become tight is enough. Ensure the the front bulkhead fitting doesn't move when you are tightening the fastening rear flange. No need for silicon or anything like that.
How do you plan to get the sump into the space? And how do you plan to maintain it?
Edit:
Ah, disregard, just reread and saw that the filtration would not be below the tank. This was one of my original concerns with this design for a stand. However, if it's no longer being placed there, it'll be fine.
Edit:
Ah, disregard, just reread and saw that the filtration would not be below the tank. This was one of my original concerns with this design for a stand. However, if it's no longer being placed there, it'll be fine.
Thanks Rhodes, though the bulkhead only came with the following:
Bulkead
Rubber
Washer
Nut
So am I correct in thinking the washer and nut then go on the same side of the tank wall?
(Inside)Bulkhead - Rubber - Washer - WALL - Nut (Outside)
Also, after some careful consideration and thought on the matter, the overflow bar will be getting two things done to it.
First, I'm widening the channel more. Second I'll be cutting teeth into the channel. According to the numbers I should be able to achieve something like 4500gph of flow through one 1.5" pipe at full siphon. I'm going to have a few more kinks in the works than a straight shot, so I'm not entirely sure that I'll be able to get that much flow, but I think even if I get 3000gph without having the siphon channel wide open I'll be happy.
Alternatively Bean has stated that an overflow isn't needed for his system to work provided that some method of guarding for the intake is made. Worst comes to worst I can utilize a Herbie method with a little creative plumbing if this doesn't pan out like I'm hoping it will.
Bulkead
Rubber
Washer
Nut
So am I correct in thinking the washer and nut then go on the same side of the tank wall?
(Inside)Bulkhead - Rubber - Washer - WALL - Nut (Outside)
Also, after some careful consideration and thought on the matter, the overflow bar will be getting two things done to it.
First, I'm widening the channel more. Second I'll be cutting teeth into the channel. According to the numbers I should be able to achieve something like 4500gph of flow through one 1.5" pipe at full siphon. I'm going to have a few more kinks in the works than a straight shot, so I'm not entirely sure that I'll be able to get that much flow, but I think even if I get 3000gph without having the siphon channel wide open I'll be happy.
Alternatively Bean has stated that an overflow isn't needed for his system to work provided that some method of guarding for the intake is made. Worst comes to worst I can utilize a Herbie method with a little creative plumbing if this doesn't pan out like I'm hoping it will.
