Another DIY Plywood Build 400 gallon - Mostly Pics =)

[Dione]

Btw I wouldn’t recommend a power tool for this. I use an equalizer raven and an equalizer express. Both of which are more than capable of cutting through metal in the wrong hands...I’d hate to see what it would do to wood. Cold knife is your best bet

 

[Arkangel77]

I know it’s been some time since the build but I’m curious as to your prep and cure times in between coats. What did you sand the wood with prior to epoxy? Did you clean it thoroughly afterwards? And you mentioned that you used more coats than recommended, could that have caused an issue? Not trying to be critical in any way but just trying to learn.

I sanded every surface before I started epoxy - cant remember grit but went with what was suggested. I used a random orbit sander and a foam sanding blocks to scuff everything up. Everything was cleaned and whipped down before I started Epoxy. I even "thind out" the first coat as recomented by the Manufacturer to allow the Epoxy to "soak" into the wood a little better. I cant Imagin how more layers would be a bad thing??? I scuffed areas that were ruff between coats. There is also a time frame that you must apply the coats within (think it was 24hrs but not sure). If you apply the coats whithin that time frame they bond to each other and become one solid sheet of material. I am happy to answer any question. I extensively researched all this before I started this project. I wanted to do it right the 1st time, and yet - here we are =)

Now here is where I can help you out. If you want to cut the glass out I’d recommend a windshield removal (cold knife) tool like I use daily. Not sure if you can get to the inside of the tank easily but if you can then this will work like a charm. The blades have a 90 degree bend designed to reach under the glass and cut the adhesive. They also come in various lengths if needed. I use these to cut out windshields which are held in by urathane which from my experience is much denser than silicone. Should cut like butter

This is Genius! I never thought if it but this is possible thee best chance I have at getting the glass out. I will be talking with my Local glass shop, they know me. Ima try to get some help from them! I can get inside the tank easy, just a razor knife will take care out that. Its the flat section between the face of the glass and the plywood thats the issue. However - I think this will help a LOT with that part!

Thank you - will keep you guys posted

 

[Dione]

Glad I could help. Any glass shop should be familiar with a cold knife but an auto glass shop will have the most experience with that specific tool.
As far as using more layers than recommended...I paint cars as well. “Show cars” willbe painted with more layers of clear for added depth. While a “street car” will get less coats of clear. The reason for this is the more layers of clear are actually lessening the durability of the material...a car with several coats of clear will chip much easier than a vehicle with 2 or 3. Also, the more added layers of clear that are used the cure time in between coats increases while making the surface more sensitive to variables such as temperature and humidity. My knowledge is in the automotive field with different materials so I’m not sure if what I’m trying to say translates to waterproofing epoxies. Just asking questions to gain a better understanding before I have 600+ gallons on my living room floor lol

 

[Arkangel77]

I understand what you are saying. I could be way off but my Understanding of this epoxy is the thicker the better. I spoke at LENGTH with the guys from max acr a few times back in the day and asked many questions!!!!! The fact that it failed is whats got me so hesitant to even try a repair. I am not saying that I cant make a mistake, I just don't know what mistake was maid or what caused the fail. That's why I blamed the epoxy. I have gotten a few theory's from folks but the only thing that seems solid is that if I had fiber glassed the inside this would not have happened