Salt:
Okay, Okay, everyone has talking about adding salt to their aquariums lately, so here are the facts. All fish need a certain amount of salt, however the majority of freshwater fish find the amount of salt that naturally occurs in our freshwater sufficient. Certain species can tolerate larger amounts of salt, others cannot. The easiest way to tell if your fish can or cannot tolerate salt is to look at their scales. If you have a large scaled fish like a Goldfish, Bala shark, etc. then your fish can tolerate you adding additional alt to the tank. If, however, you have tight scaled or scaleless fish like eels, knife fish, most tetras, etc. these species generally do not tolerate the addition of more salt at all.
Why is this? Simply put it is a mechanism called osmosis. Fish maintain an internal concentration of salt in their body fluids higher than that of their liquid environment. Osmosis causes water to transfer from the lower salinity of the pond water into the tissues of the fish. The kidneys must eliminate this additional water buildup. Although salt in higher concentrations may slow some disease-causing bacterial growth in the pond and aquarium, the predominantly accepted theories ascribe the primary benefits of salt to lowering the osmotic pressure. This reduces the effort the fish must expend in eliminating the excess water. The saved energy is then available for use by the fish's own immune system to take care of other potential problems. The presence of salt also helps counteract any nitrite toxicity. In some cold climate areas, it is added in the winter to lower the freezing point of the water.
Most local tap water (but call and ask your water company, or test your own water for the results first) often has a salinity of up to 0.5 ppt. This amount cannot be tasted, but we drink it and we put it into our ponds and aquariums. If our fish were put into an absolutely pure (distilled) water environment, the osmotic pressure would be so high that some species would be unable to eliminate the excess water and would die almost as if by drowning. On the other hand, if the salinity approaches that of the internal tissues of the fish, the osmosis process will decrease or even reverse. This can cause the fish to die, essentially of dehydration. Any discussions should therefore center not on whether salt should be in the water, but how much. This osmosis process is directly affected by scale type and size. So, speaking in generalities, large scaled fish can generally take additional salt, up to a point. Small tight scaled and scaleless fish cannot.
Now the decision of whether or not to add salt is a personal one. The greatest "myth" out there is the thousand and one sure fire, rule of thumb rule about adding salt. 1 tablespoon per gallon, 1 teaspoon per 5 gallon, whatever the particular "expert" swears by, .... everywhere I go I see a new set of rules and guidelines, and no two are ever the same! Since everyone's water has a different concentration of salt in it, there is no such thing as a hard and fast rule to go by!
If you are in the mood to add salt, ALWAYS spend the few dollars on a good hydrometer so you can accurately see where your levels are, and how much, if any, you are going to adjust it. Heck, you don't blindly add pH UP or pH Down to your tank; you test your water first to see if you need to add any, and approximately how much. Well the same is true with salt.
When discussing salt for ponds and aquariums, I want you to be quite aware that I am not talking about adding (or not adding) standard table salt. Table salt is what is known as "iodized salt" or salt that contains iodine. The salt that should be, and safely can be added to your ponds and aquariums is non-iodized salt, commonly sold as aquarium salt. You can also find this salt in your grocery store under the name of "canning salt". There is still a great debate about whether or not to use table or iodized salt in freshwater aquariums, personally I figure, why risk it? If I feel the need to add salt (which I rarely do) I always use non-iodized salts.
CREDIT:
http://www.ereeftank.com/Articles.asp?ID=172