Arowana in a 20 Gallon?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
When i had a jardini he loved massivore pellets but floating sticks are just as good. You can definitely grow him to 8-10" in the 20 gallon.


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yes, because you got to think, The 20 gallon is 12" width so he would not have any problems turning around or anything...
 
Is it like they are still delicate until they hit that 8 inch mark or why does it have to be 8-10 inches???

A lot of it depends on the fish's ability to compete with the others for food, in addition to just avoiding predation by the clown knife. So the larger it is the better off it will be, in this situation.
 
yes, because you got to think, The 20 gallon is 12" width so he would not have any problems turning around or anything...

Its ability to turn around isn't the only issue to consider. You also have to think about bioload, as well as the obvious: "where is it going to go if it gets spooked?" In addition, at 8-10", some of the other inhabitants may start to disappear...
 
Its ability to turn around isn't the only issue to consider. You also have to think about bioload, as well as the obvious: "where is it going to go if it gets spooked?" In addition, at 8-10", some of the other inhabitants may start to disappear...
I have some floating silk plants...
 
Your new aro is going to grow about an inch per month for the first few months. IMO your going to find that 20g is too small for the arowana around the 5-6" mark. I wouldn't suggest moving the arowana into the 300g until 10-11". You'll have to decide what to do as there is a 5-6" void within the recommendations. Young arowana don't do well with lots of surface current, so the three HOB filters may become an issue. I would also recommend before it comes to completely seal and secure the entire top of your tank. This means every little hole and even the HOB filters, I had an 8-9" silver end up inside an AC110. You'd actually be better of to just get a sponge filter for the growout tank. Most silvers that end up dead, are from drying up on the floor outside their tank, don't let it happen to yours.

For feeding I would start with freeze dried blood worms and then add broken hikari gold cichlid pellets. Always had better luck going with breaking up the large sized pellets instead of feeding the small pellets, just a little softer. You may also want to add some floating plants to help make the aro feel a little more secure.
 
For how much you're going to have to feed the Aro and keeping on top of the water params plus the fact they like to jump i'd say the 20g is too small.
As advised i'd add it to the 30g around 10''+ so the 20g wont work at all.
 
Your new aro is going to grow about an inch per month for the first few months. IMO your going to find that 20g is too small for the arowana around the 5-6" mark. I wouldn't suggest moving the arowana into the 300g until 10-11". You'll have to decide what to do as there is a 5-6" void within the recommendations. Young arowana don't do well with lots of surface current, so the three HOB filters may become an issue. I would also recommend before it comes to completely seal and secure the entire top of your tank. This means every little hole and even the HOB filters, I had an 8-9" silver end up inside an AC110. You'd actually be better of to just get a sponge filter for the growout tank. Most silvers that end up dead, are from drying up on the floor outside their tank, don't let it happen to yours.

For feeding I would start with freeze dried blood worms and then add broken hikari gold cichlid pellets. Always had better luck going with breaking up the large sized pellets instead of feeding the small pellets, just a little softer. You may also want to add some floating plants to help make the aro feel a little more secure.
The 300 gallon has a custom built canopy that is 100% COVERED! the canopy is 2 foot tall so the aro could jump if it wants but it could not jump OUT...
 
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