Much appreciated man, its a shame were like 10 states away haha id build u a bigger tank for the cost of material alone lol
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Auto drip system...how too? Im losin my mind with 26 tanks
- Thread starter wednesday13
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Much appreciated man, its a shame were like 10 states away haha id build u a bigger tank for the cost of material alone lol
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Another thing you can do on tanks that aren't drilled for a sump is put a float in the tank to maintain water level then put a T off your filtration pump with a valve to reduce flow. Then pump the water to your drain at whatever GPH you prefer and have the float valve refill the water that's being pumped out.. Its a little more complicated but its still a drip system for those tanks that you don't have an extra hole for an auto drain
Ok i can copy ur setup for 3 of my tanks (230,300,180)...unfourtunately my 650 and 450 run on overhead sumps so im gonna have to get a bit creative on those. They dont really hold any water in the boxes like a traditional sump only 1"or less. Might be possible to just drill a drain hole with bulkhead right into the tanks at the water level tho..hmmm... im kinda screwed for 2 glass 125's holding my tig and alb wells 
. Ive seen lee's drains for non drilled tanks but dont quite understand them. I guess ive been spited today for talkin s*** about 180's not bein real over in the ray section lol...aint charma a ******... haha thats what i get i suppose
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. Ive seen lee's drains for non drilled tanks but dont quite understand them. I guess ive been spited today for talkin s*** about 180's not bein real over in the ray section lol...aint charma a ******... haha thats what i get i supposeSent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
Veeeeery clever wheatgerm, i have 2 tanks that could really use that but dont so much understand floats. Any pics?
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I don't have a pic of it set up on a tank like this, I had it set up this way on my old 500 because I had to pump water out of the basement. Just get a swamp cooler float valve from home depot they are like 3$ you'll notice in the pic that with a float valve you still have to drill a small hole in the tank for the washer/nut to hold the float in place.... Instead I took a 2" cuppler and drilled a hole in the cuppler then attached the float to the cuppler. Then siliconed the cuppler into the back corner of the tank, painted it all black and it was good to go.
A float valve floats on the waters surface when the water level gets lower the valve turns on and water flows. when the water level raises the valve shuts off
Just need saw, time and glue, I already have 5 sheets of 1/2 inch little beat up acrylic here, its just time to Polish then cut and glue. The float valve works good as well like Dane said. And if you have a good drain and it stuck open (rare to happen) for an odd reason its just going to be a really good water change.
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Is it possible to just use a standard style hang on overflow box to get the extra water drainin on a non drilled tank? or do u guys think that has more room for failure if the siphon is lost? Just thinking it'd be advantageous to skim anything off the surface and dump that out. I'm a bit more clear headed today lol, def. was in panic mode lastnight. I'm gonna start by picking up some pvc this weekend and making a "whole house" drain around the perimiter of the basement so i can tie in everything on one line straight to the sump pump, im thinking 2.5"-4" should handle 8-12tanks (125-650). Luckily i left around 4-6" behind all my tanks around the perimiter so i should have just enough room to squeeze the pipe in. I dont want more than one pipe running across the middle of the floor as the basin is located just about dead center of the room under the stairs but we'll see how that goes as every tank is basically jammed right next to one another around the outside walls. I'm only 5,8'' so i left myself very little room to get underneath/in between most of the stands to work on things. Hopefully i can get away with one long "L" shaped drain pipe behind them but at this point im not opposed to having it in front of the tanks just to make things easier if/when something goes wrong. The first tank (300) should be easy as theres already an extra bulkhead in the sump with a ball valve i put in for cleaning the box and they should progressively get harder to hook up from there lol... A bit overwhelming right now, but i cant wait to just sit back and enjoy everything again when that day finally comes.
Yes. I use a CPR overflow with an aqualifter on one of my non drilled tanks.
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I think your asking is you can use a HOB overflow box for the actual drip system?? I'm not sure about that I would wonder if it would be such a slow flow that it wouldn't work...
Not sure how your planning on running your main drain pipe for all your tanks but I would suggest just putting a T and an upright pipe about 6"-1' tall next to every tank that was as your toying with the drip emitters or drip valves all you will have to do is run a small amount of flex hose from the tank to your T in the drain line.
Not sure how your planning on running your main drain pipe for all your tanks but I would suggest just putting a T and an upright pipe about 6"-1' tall next to every tank that was as your toying with the drip emitters or drip valves all you will have to do is run a small amount of flex hose from the tank to your T in the drain line.
Standard "S" PVC overflow C: just saying xP i manged to hook up my whole breeding system (70g and 4-10g) using one sump!
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