Basic Water Pump Q's

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Beware of check valves... At this low a pressure some don't work right and stick open (plus they create more head pressure). I've checked several from Lowes & home depot and 4 out of 5 leaked pressure(water). Check for a bilge pump check valve, I only used one but it worked well (low pressure bilge pump).

If it's one of the pipe joints that's already been glued (for future reference) you can pull a vacuum on the pipe and put some glue or thinner silicone around the joint and it will get sucked into the hole(s).

zennzzo is right about the siphon break...BUT.. make more than one. Atleast two - 180 degrees apart (accross from each other) so nothing gets sucked up to it and blocks its function. Just make sure your sump can hold what's in the down pipes.

Dr Joe

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str8dum;488396; said:
yeah if you drill that hole rigth below the water line onthe return pipe, when the water drops below that hole, it will berak the siphon and not all drain into your sump
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I definetly have to do something, its scary to watch how quickly the sump fills up when you turn the pump off :eek:
 
Is it normall that the water from the return line surges, by that I mean you can see bubbles go in out of the elbow, and then it dumps a whole bunch of air at once. Its like the sump has to fill up to a certain point and then it will dump it all
 
Zen and Dr. Joe, I will be following the drilling advice. What size drill bit should I use? Do I just need pin holes or a decent hole


As far as everything else I have done, I wasnt quiet sure what the best way to put everything together was so I just did what I thought would be good :nilly: Here are some pics,



The pump is sitting on a sponge because of how loud it is, THe sponge seemed to help quiet it down

Here is the return line actually in the tank,



Here is how I hooked up my over flow to my sump. The white hose is pool hose that fit pefectly in 1" PVC pipes. Another customer actually helped me with that. Oh and of course its got cement in it.






Is there anything that isnt done as well as it could be? I didnt have a clue what was good and what wasnt. Its all holding fine and I feel pretty good with it, not great but pretty good
 
Surges... Sounds like you don't have all the air out of the system or you've got an air leak.

Quarter inch holes are fine.

Only thing I see is the hose sagging below its connection to the sump. Could hold air or at least create turbulance.

Somebody once told me 'water only runs down hill' never paid much attention to that until I was working on a sewer system... Now I do.

Dr Joe

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Dr Joe;488835; said:
Surges... Sounds like you don't have all the air out of the system or you've got an air leak.

Quarter inch holes are fine.

Only thing I see is the hose sagging below its connection to the sump. Could hold air or at least create turbulance.

Somebody once told me 'water only runs down hill' never paid much attention to that until I was working on a sewer system... Now I do.

Dr Joe

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Click to expand...

The wet dry opening sits higher than the stand so I have to make it run back up, maybe there is a way I can fix that.

For now everything is running. The water pump is taking water out of the sump faster than the sump can get it so its running odly. Maybe figuring out the way to make the water run only down to the sump will cure that
 
IRoman;488909; said:
The wet dry opening sits higher than the stand so I have to make it run back up, maybe there is a way I can fix that.

For now everything is running. The water pump is taking water out of the sump faster than the sump can get it so its running odly. Maybe figuring out the way to make the water run only down to the sump will cure that
Click to expand...
Just shorten the hose to the sump a little and that will take care of that small belly in that hose. It's all above the sump so it doesn't really matter...what you gained going downhill a little you lost going back up the other side, so it equals out...the only thing is the small bit of friction loss from the extra hose...Now as for the sump not filling up as fast as the pump can pump it out...that's where the Dr. was saying to put a valve. you can back the flow down a tad to make the flow of the pump decrease ...I'd put it in a convient place on the PVC pipe after the pump 1" ball valve costs like 3.99 in my area for the slip fit veriety.Be carefull not to get cement on the ball valve seat or ball....and don't run that pump without water running through it...with a valve restricting the flow, and that hose full of water, it will quiet down alot....other than that it's looking fine to me...~Z;)
 
Oh okay, Sounds good. Thanks guys, I will go pick on up and let you know how it goes
 
a better way is to put a T pipe over the output of the pump and instead of restricting the flow, channel the excess flow back into the sump using a ball valve on the T. That way it doesnt creat unnecessary back pressure on the pump (which can increase heat and wear/tear on the pump).

How strong is the flow out of your return? Is that the mag 9.5?
 
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