On the mid-water one. If you came out then went down with a 90 to a U tube (180) then back up, you could insert a piece of pipe to connect into what you have now. It's not necessary by any means, but it would give you some room to play with on adjusting the height.
Yeah, on the mid water one my only option would be to hack the hubs in half which would lower it an inch. I also just checked the flow rate on the hammerhead and it's higher than I expected (I am used to a 12' head pressure on it) now there is only like 5' so I am close to 5200 GPH which is just about the max for a single 3" drain.
Sorry for "highjacking" this thing Rich. Ill keep my mouth shut from now on. Especially since I don't have 35 years experience to offer. However I do know that the o.p. Has enough experience to get it all figured out. Can't wait to see it in person.
Get a T and a ball valve for the line to the tank to divert some flow to the sump and be done with it. Makes it easy to throttle flow. Some people do it with two, but I've never found a need to.
Get a T and a ball valve for the line to the tank to divert some flow to the sump and be done with it. Makes it easy to throttle flow. Some people do it with two, but I've never found a need to.
Yeah I am at my last ends here so that sounds like a good idea.
I opened the middle sump wall up and it didn't help much.
So I assume it goes Pump, T, then above that the valve and the T sections goes back to the sump. Maybe I will just eliminate the 2nd Reeflo Dart then and power the wet/dry portion of the filter with the same pump.
2"x1.5"x2" T using the 1.5" side as the feed to the DIY garbage can filter.
No, the valve goes on the leg of the T pointing toward your sump. You want the top of the T, the part that you can look through, to be on the return to the tank. That way water goes straight through to the tank unobstructed. The valve is fed from the pressure on the line. I'll draw you a quick pic.
