can this be used for tanks
- Thread starter Dragon Hunter
- Start date
I have geII black on 3 tanks. With all the mildew resistance and toxins and explosives and all the other BS that people says will kill your fish. They have been running for 3+ years with no problems. 1 of them has payara in it. They are more sensetive than discus and are doing fine. They other has a fahaka in it. And the last frsh barracuda's. All doing fine. Don't beleive the internet hype or myths that have no proof.
hybridtheoryd16;3123066; said:
Toxic doesn't always mean that the fish dies instantly. It's just like cigarette smoke, you won't die quickly from smoking, but you also won't live as long. Avoid the bioguard products, there are too many safe products to chose from.
I think the valid concern is less for the fish than the biofilter. If it's designed to be antimicrobial and says so on the label I'd steer clear. That's not to say that there aren't products on the market that don't function quite as advertised of course, and it may be fine. It obviously depends on the volume of the tank and frequency of water changes too. But the relative value of the fish compared to the sealing compound makes it seem like a poor risk.
Why is black essential?
Why is black essential?
Can anyone find any single little bit of valid proof that the ge2 silicone has hurt a fish? Other than internet say so myths. If the stuff were really as bad as everyone says it is, then there should be proof to back that up. So where is it? I have done my own study and recorded all commonly testable water parameters, and found no difference between my tanks that have it and the ones that do not. I have tested one of the most sensative species of frshwater fish in a tank with this so called deadly ge2 silicone and had zero problems. In 3 plus years with a largely over stocked tank, I have had zero ammonia or nitrite readings. So anyone that can please provide a grain of proof to back up this myth . ------thanks
The original question was about ge2 silicone. And I had information for the OP on a study that I had done on the item at hand. This thread is full of rumors pertaining to ge2 with no valid info. The internet is a vicious rumor mill. so any way back to the topic. Does anyone have any valid info about ge2 harming fish?
hybridtheoryd16;3125246; said:
GE II has no problems at all. Silicone II, when it cures gives off ammonia instead of acetic acid as silicone does which is perfectly safe unless not completely cured as ammonia is not good for aquariums. GE developed silicone II for this reason, less toxic. Silicone II and Silicone both are safe for tanks, Silicone II does not have the same adhesion properties as silicone, it doesn't bond as strong.
Now to address the rest of your statements. First, you have not conducted a "study". That entails actually doing just a bit more than using the product in your tank. Secondly, you failed to state whether or not the Silicone II you used was one with BIO (insert name here which refers to fungicides, mildewicides, etc.) which are the actual topic of discussion. While they MAY not kill your fish, they have been developed to leech these toxins to their surface to prevent said mildew and fungus. This means these enter the water through leeching. This is inherently not healthy over time and possibly quite quickly to fish. To further add to this, some of these products contain arsenic. Enough said. So, basically to rebuff your MYTH statement; Since there are several known good silicon and silicon II products available it seems quite unreasonable to state with certainty and fact that your personal experience reflects the hobby experience as a whole, thus recommending the use of a product when safer/better (bond quality, cure gases, etc) product is quite readily available flies in the face of the logic you are trying to profess to fight this so called MYTH.
In closing, GEII is safe if fully cured. If the product contains additives to prevent mildew and fungal growth, don't use it for safety sake and use a known good product that is most likely right next to it on the shelf.
First off just incase you did not know, ammonia is the main source of food for your biological bacteria that are present in a good running tank. So any trace amount of ammonia that the ge2 might gave off would be consumed by that. Which would not happen in the first place. My reference to a study was because I had a few tanks starting up at the same time. 3 with ge2 in them and 2 with out. All were treated the exact same. And all commonly testable parameters were tested daily (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph, kh, dh) on all 5 tanks. And there was no difference in any of the parameters between tanks. And they all cycled with in a few days of each other. All that has been stated before. And I beleive that is a little more than just using it in a tank. Also please provide any proof that this ge2 has less adhession ability than the ge1. And i did state that the ge2 silicone that I used was the one with the toxins that the myth is about. And finally the only reason that I have labeled this a myth is because there is not one shred of valid proof that the ge2 has ever caused a problem in a tank. If there is not any proof to back up a statement then the statement is more than likely false.
The chemical testing that goes into testing for poisions in water is vast, Lets use an example of something which is more obvious to the masses... Mercury is a great example of something which can be in the water and not appear to cause problems with imediate death, however with time it causes a whole heap of problems... is that something which would be picked up via your standard tests? No... wouldn't be picked up in a Pesticides Test either since it's not what is being looked for... in order to determine what is being leached into water you need to reveiw the ingredients within the product itself and test for those specific chemicals.
This is in interesting debate but it's ultimately a question of specifics and not of trying to generalize all of a "type" of silicone together.
Although the "standard" Test kit which alot of people within the hobby use (Personally I don't anymore since I have a feel for my tanks and can usually spot a problem before it ever becomes a problem) just do not account for anything more than the basics and we use it because we all use potable water to begin with which is treated and tested before ever reaching out homes. If we were to use grey water for our tanks we would all have an entirly different approach to testing our water
This is in interesting debate but it's ultimately a question of specifics and not of trying to generalize all of a "type" of silicone together.
Although the "standard" Test kit which alot of people within the hobby use (Personally I don't anymore since I have a feel for my tanks and can usually spot a problem before it ever becomes a problem) just do not account for anything more than the basics and we use it because we all use potable water to begin with which is treated and tested before ever reaching out homes. If we were to use grey water for our tanks we would all have an entirly different approach to testing our water
