Below 7. But even then nitrite is going to harm your fish.
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Can't get rid of ick.
- Thread starter evox53187
- Start date
Below 7. But even then nitrite is going to harm your fish.
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If your tap water is high, then don't bother trying. Just add something like amquel to make ammonia less toxic. Add some salt to make nitrite less toxic.
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Regardless of anything else that is or was going on the tank is not cycled. A cycled tank will read 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, nitrates will always be present as it is the end result or the nitrogen cycle and are removed by water changes. With Oscars it is best to keep the nitrates as low as possibile, definatly below 20 ppm always and ideally below 10 ppm, While much less toxic than either ammonia or nitrites long term exposure to high levels of nitrates will stress the fish and weaken the immune system rendering them vunerable to a wide veriaty of illnesses. Oscars seem more suseptable to HITH then some other species in less than idea conditions so a well cycled tank and a clean environment is important to there ability to ward off pathogens thet would otherwise effect them. A regular schedule of water changes, substrate vacuming and filter maintance are key elaments to maintaining a healthy and balanced environment.
Quick cure is a great med but should be used in a hospital tank as it is very hard on nytrofiying bacteria and is most likly what caused the tank to become uncycled. I would do a 50% water change and run some carbon in your filter for two days. Reduce your salt level to 3ppm, after two days remove the carbon and do daily 25% water changes while testing your tanks water perameters, the numbers will tell you when the cycle is complete. Don't wory about the Ph level at this point, it is what it is. If can get some Seachem prime and Sability get tem and use them the prime is a water conditioner and the Sability will help innoculate your system with BB and reduce the overall time it will take the tank to complete the cycle. Always test your water before a water change and or the addition of any additives so you can get an accurate reading. Once things are back to normal we can then address and other issues however I think you might see the issue resolved. If you need any other other help with this come back someone is always around to help you. In a few hours I'll be headed to the Monster Konvention for the weekend but will try to check in.
Quick cure is a great med but should be used in a hospital tank as it is very hard on nytrofiying bacteria and is most likly what caused the tank to become uncycled. I would do a 50% water change and run some carbon in your filter for two days. Reduce your salt level to 3ppm, after two days remove the carbon and do daily 25% water changes while testing your tanks water perameters, the numbers will tell you when the cycle is complete. Don't wory about the Ph level at this point, it is what it is. If can get some Seachem prime and Sability get tem and use them the prime is a water conditioner and the Sability will help innoculate your system with BB and reduce the overall time it will take the tank to complete the cycle. Always test your water before a water change and or the addition of any additives so you can get an accurate reading. Once things are back to normal we can then address and other issues however I think you might see the issue resolved. If you need any other other help with this come back someone is always around to help you. In a few hours I'll be headed to the Monster Konvention for the weekend but will try to check in.
Not too clear from the pictures...but did he eat your Cory?
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