Coral ID

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Well moving my frogspawn is almost impossible. Since it took forever to get it where it is happy with the flow. I can defiantly move my zoas though. Finally wouldn't this be good for a 20L since the 20 is so much shorter?


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I doubt it. That isnt very much light at all.

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every time corals move from different light sources ie; MH to LED or LED to T5Ho they expel their zooxanthallae algae and need to re-grow it under that different source - sometimes they pull thru sometimes they don't.
 
Never seen that before. I moved some softies and LPS from my 40 mixed with T5's to my 5.5 with LEDs

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Well I will be going from T5HO to T5HO so I don't think it really matters. Also I posted this question on the reef tank too. Someone told me it is a small bubble bubble coral. So it apparently has more small bubbles instead of a lesser amount of large bubbles.


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Never seen that before. I moved some softies and LPS from my 40 mixed with T5's to my 5.5 with LEDs

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It's not always a visible thing - if your tanks been runnin' stable with corals or photosynthetic inverts for awhile than plenty of zooxanthallae is probably already in the system. I've seen this happen with several types of corals and several species of anemones over the past few years. With hard corals they sometimes call it bleaching - with softies it's "why's my polyps closed for a week or 2" - with anemones it's their mouths being open and dulling of coloration. I saw it mostly when I first got into corals.

One thing about invert health that bothers me is most successful reefers know their param's like their birthdate - Mines PH 8.4, ALk 10, Cal 550 Mag 1250 PO4 .025 Nitrate 5 ppm and Salinity 1.0255. they also kow the higher the cal the lower the mag the higher the alk the higher the ph the lower the salinity the lower the ph and so on - when ppl say what's wrong with my corals without posting numbers it says to me they don't understand how everything's relevant because they aren't testing properly - so the only solution is cross their fingers or get with the program.
 
One thing about invert health that bothers me is most successful reefers know their param's like their birthdate - Mines PH 8.4, ALk 10, Cal 550 Mag 1250 PO4 .025 Nitrate 5 ppm and Salinity 1.0255. they also kow the higher the cal the lower the mag the higher the alk the higher the ph the lower the salinity the lower the ph and so on - when ppl say what's wrong with my corals without posting numbers it says to me they don't understand how everything's relevant because they aren't testing properly - so the only solution is cross their fingers or get with the program.

I agree, though its a little bit on the blunt side of how to put it haha. It's not like fresh water, things can fairly easily go wrong EVERY day with only slight fluctuations, unlike fresh where you can have a fair amount of ammonia and your fish are still happilly swimming around (depending on the fish but you get what I mean). When I last had a tank up (been a wile due to school) I kept a log book of my parms, I checked the "big ones" a few times a week, and ALL once a week, untill everything was almost 100% stable (that took a long time and alot of tweaking) then I checked the "big ones" once a week and all the rest every other week, litterally writing them all down to keep track of trends/swings, so I could adjust dosing as required. You can NEVER be to careful, and there is almost no such thing as testing to much especially when you make changes to the tank, like adding stock/rock/etc, (unless you have a HUGE system and are adding tiny frags then I'd say go for it no one will notice).
 
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