Critique my intake plumbing

Pulcher

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12829F66-125F-4220-8105-713043D71B93.jpeg 9DFACFA8-DC71-4785-B450-C8379C7E37B0.jpeg 22C33A5D-6CC5-4A1A-BCB2-949DEEA05160.jpeg FB1BFBFB-554B-4874-8F09-7A8137ACB0AA.jpeg So in my intake I went with a Herbie style intake with a main drain/emergency standpipe. I have 2 ball valves on each side of the intakes before the sump. I know that people recommend gate valves but they are impossible to find locally. Does anyone see any improvements they would make? Also none of the pipes are bonded yet.
 

aotechs

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It looks good. If you do not bond the stacks inside the overflow, you will always have the ability to modify the pipe height if needed.
 

kendragon

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So clean. Is that stand aluminum?
 

Pulcher

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So clean. Is that stand aluminum?
Thanks you and Yes 2”x2” square tube aluminum. I will post more pictures when I finish with it.
 

JK47

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View attachment 1290184 View attachment 1290182 View attachment 1290179 View attachment 1290181 So in my intake I went with a Herbie style intake with a main drain/emergency standpipe. I have 2 ball valves on each side of the intakes before the sump. I know that people recommend gate valves but they are impossible to find locally. Does anyone see any improvements they would make? Also none of the pipes are bonded yet.
I would recommend not solvent welding the pipe from the elbow to the sump. It isn’t pressurized so shouldn’t be a big deal or leak. That way once you track down a gate valve it can be spliced in easily.

You may decide to get a gate valve down the road if the ball valve doesn’t perform as well. This white valves are really hard to adjust. I have a few of those as well and they are pretty hard to adjust.
 
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mudbuttjones

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i have never found a gate valve locally, but they are like $10 for a 1" and I'm sure under $20 for a 1.5"... trust me when i say that a gate valve is worth it for this kind of setup.

your setup looks very clean and well thought out. my only other recommendation would possibly be the addition of a union under the bulkhead.
 
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Pulcher

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i have never found a gate valve locally, but they are like $10 for a 1" and I'm sure under $20 for a 1.5"... trust me when i say that a gate valve is worth it for this kind of setup.

your setup looks very clean and well thought out. my only other recommendation would possibly be the addition of a union under the bulkhead.
Well since my intake pipes are 2” the gate valve is probably going to cost around $80 which is pricy but I guess are worth it. My only other concerns with my setup is that I read gate valves can’t take a lot of pressure and that main drain will have a lot of water flowing through it. My return will be a Jebao DCT-1500 connected to 1” pvc.
 

JK47

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Well since my intake pipes are 2” the gate valve is probably going to cost around $80 which is pricy but I guess are worth it. My only other concerns with my setup is that I read gate valves can’t take a lot of pressure and that main drain will have a lot of water flowing through it. My return will be a Jebao DCT-1500 connected to 1” pvc.
The point of a gate valve is to restrict flow. Step the gate valve down to 1.5” and save a couple bucks. Same thing I do
 
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twentyleagues

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Nice and clean.
+1 on the gate valve. Trying to adjust a syphon with a ball valve was such a pain in the butt I gave up on it and just went baklck with the durso style. Now I've purchased two gate valves at 21.99 a pop and have to cut out the ball valves as the durso is to loud.
Also I didnt bond all my pipes at my sump and 1 does leak about a drop every 30 seconds. It's dripping in my sump anyway so no big deal just leting you know it's possible even though under low pressure it can still leak.
 

mudbuttjones

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the siphon on my bean overflow could handle about 1300gph through a 1" gate valve.

if your dead set on a ball valve, King Brothers (KBI) make a smooth ball valve. from my experience they sometimes leak slowly when they are totally shutoff, but they are by far the smoothest and nicest ballvalves I've used
 
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