Dead fish....random? Water?

[Dieboldly]

I u

You can neutralize it with prime. If your tank is close to a window add a pothos vine or similar plant to filter/sump(probably not to tank as your cichlids will eat roots)

I use prime every time I do a water change. That's kinda why I'm not sure why it's so high. I was trying to do water changes 2x a week then I got busy and totally forgot but did it here and there. I need to get it down lower because I don't want anymore to die. I don't have just African cichlids either in it.

 

[Wailua Boy]

I think you can still detect the nitrite with test kit but it should be detoxified. Hopefully your bio filter will remove in time

 

[Dieboldly]

I think you can still detect the nitrite with test kit but it should be detoxified. Hopefully your bio filter will remove in time

Yes that's how I found out...I did a water test. As you can see. The only filters I have is a 100 gallon canister filter that needs to be changed out. Then there is a HOB filter rated for like a 60 gallon or something. Usually change that filter least once a month. There isn't a bio filter in the tank.

 

[duanes]

The rift lakes have a normal pH between 8 and 9, so if they are mbuna, 7.6 is not a high pH.
But if you hadn't done a water change in a while, the tank pH (especially seeing the readings for ammonia and nitrite) with a buildup of fish urine may have significantly dropped over time, and the new water with a higher pH could have shocked them a bit, because they had gradually become acclimated to a lower pH. The change in pH, along with the nitrite and ammonia from a long overdue water change could have caused significant stress.

 

[Dieboldly]

The rift lakes have a normal pH between 8 and 9, so if they are mbuna, 7.6 is not a high pH.
But if you hadn't done a water change in a while, the tank pH (especially seeing the readings for ammonia and nitrite) with a buildup of fish urine may have significantly dropped over time, and the new water with a higher pH could have shocked them a bit, because they had gradually become acclimated to a lower pH. The change in pH, along with the nitrite and ammonia from a long overdue water change could have caused significant stress.

Okay well I have other fish in the tank too. Arowanna, Oscar, peacock bass, catfish, clown knifes, clown loach

 

[duanes]

The fish you list above are riverine, and as such, are much more tolerant of pH swings than mbuna (if those are the Africans you mention).
Rivers are in a constant state of change, rift lakes, not so.
Though oscars are resilient, and tolerant of change, if water changes are neglected, they often develop "hole in the head".

 

[Dieboldly]

The fish you list above are riverine, and as such, are much more tolerant of pH swings than mbuna (if those are the Africans you mention).
Rivers are in a constant state of change, rift lakes, not so.
Though oscars are resilient, and tolerant of change, if water changes are neglected, they often develop "hole in the head".

Well I'm going to start doing water changes 2x a week because this is a wake up call ha

What's the best stuff to use when you have a brand new 20gallon tank going with a flowerhorn in it? I had no other choice to buy a 20gallon tank for now. He was getting Beaten up badly by another flowerhorn that went on his divider in a 50 gallon. His nitrite is up there too like my 100 gallon. I have been doing water changes daily and adding prime.

 

[Wailua Boy]

Looking at your stocklist, you maybe overstocked in your 100g; on top of no bio/plant filtration

 

[Dieboldly]

Looking at your stocklist, you maybe overstocked in your 100g; on top of no bio/plant filtration

Yea I had more fish including a 12" pacu lol I have been getting rid of some already! I have maybe 2 plants in there but that's about it. What other options do I have to use for a bio end filter? I feel like I have a lot of filters already? No?

 

[Wailua Boy]

Over head sump connected to canister with pothos(probably the easiest to get started, I've also used Bacopa, Hydrocotyle works etc)