DIY 120 Stand

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Excellence bro, eager to see the completion.
 
Very nice. I have seen in your past posts that you wire in light switches. Can you post a couple pics and maybe a drawing of how you do this? I want to do this with my 2 new stands so I can wire in timers.

Looking great


Thanks.

Bear
 
Very nice. I have seen in your past posts that you wire in light switches. Can you post a couple pics and maybe a drawing of how you do this? I want to do this with my 2 new stands so I can wire in timers. Looking great. Thanks. Bear

Sorry....I do not wire in switches. Must be another MFK'er. Thanks for the kudos anyway.


The stand frame is essentially complete. All that remains is another coat or 2 of Diamond Finish. Check it out.
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I added strips of anti-fatigue foam mat(carpeted) as a buffer between the bottom tank trim and the stand. This will also allow the tank (heavy) to slide easily into place.
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Here is how it looks from the top.
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I finished the door panel but my wife and I are not happy with how it turned out so we will be re-designing it soon.
 
With the long weekend came an opportunity to get working on my new door panel.

Here it is being test fit in the frame.
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Here is a look at the structure. It is fir 1x2 and 1/4" oak plywood.
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Because the new door panel is slimmer (and lighter :D) countersunk magnets would not align properly. As a result, I fashioned these "L-brackets" out of steel nailing strips. They work like a charm.
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The first coat of stain is now on the door panel and the oak 1x2 trim.

As an aside, I thought that I would be making my own DIY wet/dry sump but that plan changed this weekend. I picked up a gently used Schuran Filter-Rack S1 sump for an amazing price. At 1/16th of what it sells for new (in the UK) I had to grab it.

Check it out.
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The bio-tower even has a rotating spray bar.
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More to come in a few days.

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With the long weekend came an opportunity to get working on my new door panel.

Because the new door panel is slimmer (and lighter :D) countersunk magnets would not align properly. As a result, I fashioned these "L-brackets" out of steel nailing strips. They work like a charm.
View attachment 706759

More to come in a few days.

doc the L brackets make sense to me but the earth magnets did not. can you explain to this noob how that was going to work and what the magnet paint was for? also by going to the brackets how will you remove the panel? does the panel just float in the space resting on the brackets or do they get attached to your frame? thanks.

and very nice work by the way. your detail is worthy of applause. :clap:clap

dave
 
doc the L brackets make sense to me but the earth magnets did not. can you explain to this noob how that was going to work and what the magnet paint was for? also by going to the brackets how will you remove the panel? does the panel just float in the space resting on the brackets or do they get attached to your frame? thanks.

and very nice work by the way. your detail is worthy of applause. :clap:clap

dave


Sure Dave,

I countersunk rare earth magnets into the stand frame with the intention of doing the same to the edges of the door panel. Being uncertain of the exact countersink location, I thought that the magnetic primer might allow some "wiggle room" yet hold the panel magnetically. As it turns out, the hold between the primer and rare earth magnets was really quite weak.

When I re-designed the door, I designed it much thinner than the first try. The only way to get a magnetic "hold" on the door panel was to add the L-brackets which stick to the sunk magnets nicely. In essence, the door panel "floats" but is held via magnets on all 4 sides.

Thanks for the kind words! :)
 
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