Do I need a check valve?

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sashimimaster

sashimimaster

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Mar 7, 2010
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I'm in the middle of my 600g tank design stage and was drawing up the plumbing system. The green pipe is coming out of the tank and the orange is output from the sump pump going back into the tank. I want the pump output to wash the bottom so debris won't be able to settle. (btw I'm planning on having a bare bottom with a few stones and drift wood, no gravel)

My question is with the orange pipe going into the tank at such a low point how do I prevent draining when I lose power? Can I just put a check valve in line or do I have to go over the top?

Plumbing.jpg
 
If you want the return lines to enter the tank at that level, then yes, you will need check valves on both lines.

Another option is to take the return lines all the way up to where the water level will be, then all the way back down to the bottom of the tank. Then you drill a small hole just at the water level in the return lines. These holes will serve as a siphon break to make sure the return lines don't drain the whole tank into the sump.
 
With the way you have it drawn you will need the check valves, otherwise if the power goes you'll have one heck of a flood.
 
I would not rely on the check valve. It may not totally seal and the whole tank will drain. Running the pipe up to the top with a hole drilled in it with a line into the tank just below the water level will break suction in the event of pump/power failure.


How will the water pressure affect the flow returning at the bottom of the tank?
Does this require a higher head pressure pump?
 
sashimimaster;4196875; said:
Ok, so a check valve is not a good idea.

If I drill this hole at the water level doesn't it leak some pressure when the return water is pumped through it?
Click to expand...
Yes it will, and unless you have that loop of piping inside the tank then you'd have to plumb the holes with pipe to place over the water.

If I was to do that type of set-up I'd use true union check valves and ball valves between the tank and check valves, so I could service the check valve when necessary. This way all the plumbing could be external.

I have used check valves on all my tanks over 100g. and can say I have never had a mishap...Just service/check them out every 6 months...;)
:thumbsup:
 
zennzzo;4196905; said:
Yes it will, and unless you have that loop of piping inside the tank then you'd have to plumb the holes with pipe to place over the water.

If I was to do that type of set-up I'd use true union check valves and ball valves between the tank and check valves, so I could service the check valve when necessary. This way all the plumbing could be external.

I have used check valves on all my tanks over 100g. and can say I have never had a mishap...Just service/check them out every 6 months...;)
:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

So a check valve is feasible? I think I'd rather do that than take it up and down. Why would I need to service it if the return water is already filtered?
 
I'm not a plumber, but personally I wouldn't trust a $5 check valve with 600 gallons of water behind it. Unless it seals perfectly every time...and it won't after it gets dirty, which it will over time...it's gonna leak and you're gonna get wet.....It sounds like a good idea on paper, but in the real world things malfunction.
 
Seams like the union and valve on each side for matinance would be a good way to go. Just rememeber to clean it every so often. Valves are there if it does fail and you are near by. And it could be completly replaced easily.
 
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