Do I need a check valve?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
sashimimaster;4196987; said:
So a check valve is feasible? I think I'd rather do that than take it up and down. Why would I need to service it if the return water is already filtered?
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To make sure the algae and what ever might make it's way through and possibly foul the check valve could be cleaned out...

catfish52;4197004; said:
I'm not a plumber, but personally I wouldn't trust a $5 check valve with 600 gallons of water behind it. Unless it seals perfectly every time...and it won't after it gets dirty, which it will over time...it's gonna leak and you're gonna get wet.....It sounds like a good idea on paper, but in the real world things malfunction.
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you're right you're not a plumber, that's for sure!...
1st off, show me a 5 dollar check valve...:grinno:
I have used check valves on every tank, I have run a sump on,(1" on up to and including 2") without any failures...
servicing is something you need to do regardless of which way you go...If you got algae so thick it will foul a check valve, then what makes you think it will not clog a hole at the water line?, even more so, check valves close and are held tighter the more pressure that is applied. They work, they are easy to clean even though you'll find they don't really need it, period!...

Now, the ugly factor, having all those pipes in the back of the display, YUK!!

in the end, all you can really do is to try out both ways and see for yourself what is the best setup for your application...;)
 
sashimimaster;4197706; said:
Yeah, I'm trying to avoid having too many visible pipes in the back of the tank.

I saw that they make a clear housing check valve. That would be a good way to see if anything is building up in there before something bad happens.
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Yup!!
http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.c...ubref=AA&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=0033750000000

clear PVC check valve.jpg
or better yet
pl-true union check valve 1.jpg
True Union clear PVC check valve...

depending on how much room you want to use up, you can fit "unions" to any and all fittings...
it just makes for easier maintenance.
 
Won't that compromise the "bottom sweeping" action?
I'd leave the returns at the bottom like you had them originally or right at the bottom even...

And you'll need to build some sort of overflow boxes for the outlets to the sump.
You'll need to be able to control the flow "out" of the tank should you have a power outage as well...;)
 
Yes, but the nozzles are pointed downward. Hopefully with two Mag 18's it will be a good jet stream. They're pointed at the front corners so the current hopefully will swirl back toward the intakes.

The horizontal pipe is my water level limiter. There is an air hole on the top of the side down tubes. I do plan to add valves to the outlet pipes as well. I just haven't been able to find a sketch up file for it yet. :D

I also moved the outlets farther out so I won't be blocked by the inlet pipes when doing maintenance on the valves.

Plumbing 2.jpg

Plumbing 2a.jpg
 
Are you going to have enough room behind the tank to do maintenance?
or
Is this going to be accessible from an adjoining room?

I like the plumbing set-up, it just might be a bit noisy, without some sort of sound canceling netting in the outlet down tubes...
 
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