Does a 750G require reinforced flooring?
- Thread starter fattiger
- Start date
Can't fix it before it goes up for sale? Still seems cheaper then re-enforcing the floor, you can put a window in yourself its not hard and when we put an addition on my house (I helped, was only 16 but growing up in a family of contractors you learn quick) we took out a window and replaced it with a wood and drywall patch, then just spackled (sp? Lol) it up.
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I dont think I will have much time to play with leveling the tank during the delivery, so I have come up with a plan in mind. The problem I will have is once delivered, I won't be able to lift or even move the set up, so I need to set it up on something that would allow me to easily level it.
So my plan is to buy a butch of construction cement blocks from homedepot - those with 2 holes in them that look heavy duty. I will lay them on the garage floor within the 10'x4' footprint, perhaps no more than 12 inch apart from each other, and not just along the edges of the stand but also between the edges too, so essentially creating a bed of cement blocks with space in between. I will next lay one or two sheets of 10' x 4' plywood on top of the cement blocks, then place the whole set up on the plywood sheets. At that point, I can then take my time to level it by inserting my car jack between the blocks, jacking up the plywood near where I need and inserting a shim between the plywood sheets and cement block, lowering and measuring again.
Using solid metal shims seems a good idea. What and where should I buy them from?
Anyone sees any problems with my idea of using the cement blocks and plywood sheets to create a "leveling bed" below the stand?
Hello; For shims I have used steel washers. I also tend to hang onto scrap metal from projects. Some will depend on how handy you are and the amout of effort you are willing to spend. I have cut from flat bar stock to size and then smoothed the edges with a grind stone. Flat steel will rust so I have painted it. For the thinner pieces I have cut up flashing and other thin sheet metal. A walk thru a hardware store or big box such as a Lowes might yield some pieces. A machine or welding shop may have some stuff.
From your last post it appears that you do not have a stand with the tank? Are you planning to build a stand under the jacked up tank while it is on plywood and cinderblocks?
About cinder blocks; my understanding is that they are strongest with the holes up. So you can not see the holes from the side. Probably should check each block for protrusions so they will stack smoothly.
A potential risk with jacking up the tank may be a strain on the glass if you jack too much in one place. The glass could crack or the seams might torque and leak. I know it will take a long time, but I would jack a little in one spot then reset and jack a little in another place and so on.
You might get a length of 4x4 to help spread the force between the jack and the plywood. I probably would not try that method, but good luck.
Building a stand under a tank seems a tough way to go. Do a search on this forum. I know there have been many threads about building a stand.
From your last post it appears that you do not have a stand with the tank? Are you planning to build a stand under the jacked up tank while it is on plywood and cinderblocks?
About cinder blocks; my understanding is that they are strongest with the holes up. So you can not see the holes from the side. Probably should check each block for protrusions so they will stack smoothly.
A potential risk with jacking up the tank may be a strain on the glass if you jack too much in one place. The glass could crack or the seams might torque and leak. I know it will take a long time, but I would jack a little in one spot then reset and jack a little in another place and so on.
You might get a length of 4x4 to help spread the force between the jack and the plywood. I probably would not try that method, but good luck.
Building a stand under a tank seems a tough way to go. Do a search on this forum. I know there have been many threads about building a stand.
Hello; One other thought, There is a type of cement mix that is used to level floors. This self leveling cement could be poured into a shallow form where the tank will go. When cured it will give you a level surface to start with. Not sure how thin a layer you will be able to get by with, but there should be some information on that. With luck perhaps only an inch or two. Self leveling cement/mortar.
The set up comes with the stand. I was going to put everything on top of the blocks and plywood so I can level the whole thing
Sorry to get off topic but how would you get this tank through your doors. The doors on my house can't fit much over a 180 and its not a small house.
If I was going to move it into my family room, I have a patio entrance there with a sliding door and a fixed panel that both can be removed to let the set up pass
This is also why most standard tanks have a width of up to 30" so they can pass through standard doors
+1 for self leveling cement...that will be much easier. You can build a form out of 2x2s or however high it needs to be (depending on how uneven your floors are)...you may need to drill into the slab and insert some bolts secured with epoxy to keep it tight to the slab and prevent the form from moving.
Sounds like you are gearing up to go for it?
I'm curious to hear how your search for movers goes. It was an interesting experience when I was looking. Unfortunately I wouldn't recommend the guys I ended up going with. They were pretty bad. skjl47 gave good advice about having a "pre-game meeting" with the movers. Two of the six movers I had hired started to slide the tank off of the stand and they were going to try to move it themselves; the tank weighs 1,200lbs
The truck wasn't even backed into the driveway, let alone open...I couldn't believe how stupid these guys were.
Dollies are crucial. Moving blankets to wrap the tank before it is strapped in are also a good idea to help prevent the tank from getting damaged. Strapping the stand and tank are a must (they could shift in transit and the tank could get damaged). (I'm anal, so I actually wrapped the entire tank with cellophane, then bubble wrap, then blankets, lol). I cut some 4x4's to size to place the tank on so that it was easy to get under the tank to remove it from the truck. I wouldn't assume that the movers will take all this into consideration because they might not.
Good luck man, I hope everything goes well.
I believe the tank is 30" tall, so it should technically fit through most doors if you place it on it's side.
Sounds like you are gearing up to go for it?
I'm curious to hear how your search for movers goes. It was an interesting experience when I was looking. Unfortunately I wouldn't recommend the guys I ended up going with. They were pretty bad. skjl47 gave good advice about having a "pre-game meeting" with the movers. Two of the six movers I had hired started to slide the tank off of the stand and they were going to try to move it themselves; the tank weighs 1,200lbs
The truck wasn't even backed into the driveway, let alone open...I couldn't believe how stupid these guys were. Dollies are crucial. Moving blankets to wrap the tank before it is strapped in are also a good idea to help prevent the tank from getting damaged. Strapping the stand and tank are a must (they could shift in transit and the tank could get damaged). (I'm anal, so I actually wrapped the entire tank with cellophane, then bubble wrap, then blankets, lol). I cut some 4x4's to size to place the tank on so that it was easy to get under the tank to remove it from the truck. I wouldn't assume that the movers will take all this into consideration because they might not.
Good luck man, I hope everything goes well.
I believe the tank is 30" tall, so it should technically fit through most doors if you place it on it's side.
