Drip system diagram (click for large image)
- Thread starter rallysman
- Start date
Temperature is not affected (from what I can measure) and I actually use less water than doing a lot of huge water changes. It's easier to maintain a low level than it is to try to lower a high level. (I over do the drip a little to make sure that each tank doesn't pollute the next.)
Since I have started keeping fish my bill has increased $10 a month.
Since I have started keeping fish my bill has increased $10 a month.
Nice to see someone using inline filters for dechlorination; was starting to think I was the only one. 
Am using the twin pod chlorine/chloramines filter from this page myself:
http://www.ultimateaquatics.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2eultimateaquatics%2eco%2euk%2facatalog%2fDeionisation__DI_%2ehtml&WD=chloramine&PN=Water_Purifiers__eg_Metalex_%2ehtml%23a303#a303
One pod is a prefilter the other contains granular activated carbon which removes chlorine AND chloramines.
Dont actually have chloramines according to the water conpany (as yet) but y never know when they'll start and they wouldnt warn me if they do as I am not a 'business' customer.
Use it that with a pressure regulator and an adjustable dripper.
Feel safer with that than anything employing electrickery. Keeps a more stable environment for the fishes than bulk water changes. The continuous nature of the dripping means there are no broad fluctuations.
Am using the twin pod chlorine/chloramines filter from this page myself:
http://www.ultimateaquatics.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2eultimateaquatics%2eco%2euk%2facatalog%2fDeionisation__DI_%2ehtml&WD=chloramine&PN=Water_Purifiers__eg_Metalex_%2ehtml%23a303#a303
One pod is a prefilter the other contains granular activated carbon which removes chlorine AND chloramines.
Dont actually have chloramines according to the water conpany (as yet) but y never know when they'll start and they wouldnt warn me if they do as I am not a 'business' customer.
Use it that with a pressure regulator and an adjustable dripper.
Feel safer with that than anything employing electrickery. Keeps a more stable environment for the fishes than bulk water changes. The continuous nature of the dripping means there are no broad fluctuations.
New water has to travel through each tank before it can get to the sump?
Have you done any calculations to see how long it takes to completely turn over the system?
Have you done any calculations to see how long it takes to completely turn over the system?
nolapete;1000749; said:
No, other than testing each tank. The only reason that I drip the 125 and 110 together (and in to the 300 sump) is that they stay very low on nitrate levels. The end result (in the 265) is never above 20ppm nitrate so I really don't worry about it. When I get a new drain ran from the basement I'll do each one individually. This is just a temporary way for me to be lazy.
I forgot to add that I have a 25psi pressure regulator on the supply.
Hey Levi, great diagram i'm happy to see this...now makes me want to do it too 
I have a couple questions...
- Where is the pressure regulator located on your lines? Before the carbon filter?
- What bran/type of carbon filter are you using? I'd like to research on it...I have a well, so no need for dechlorination, but I do have to neutralize metals in the water...not sure if a carbon media would acheive that, or if I would need a different media?
- Is the on/off pump noise bothering you at all? What kind of pump is in your sump to get the drip water back to low level?
Thanks!
I have a couple questions...
- Where is the pressure regulator located on your lines? Before the carbon filter?
- What bran/type of carbon filter are you using? I'd like to research on it...I have a well, so no need for dechlorination, but I do have to neutralize metals in the water...not sure if a carbon media would acheive that, or if I would need a different media?
- Is the on/off pump noise bothering you at all? What kind of pump is in your sump to get the drip water back to low level?
Thanks!
Cyclop3000;1003081; said:Hey Levi, great diagram i'm happy to see this...now makes me want to do it too
I have a couple questions...
- Where is the pressure regulator located on your lines? Before the carbon filter?
- What bran/type of carbon filter are you using? I'd like to research on it...I have a well, so no need for dechlorination, but I do have to neutralize metals in the water...not sure if a carbon media would acheive that, or if I would need a different media?
- Is the on/off pump noise bothering you at all? What kind of pump is in your sump to get the drip water back to low level?
Thanks!
The pressure regulator is 1st in line, but it can be anywhere before the drip emitters.
I can't remember the brand name, but it's just a household drinking water filter that can be purchased at any hardware store.
I've never even heard the pump kick on
It only cycles a few times a day, but when I've tried to hear it I can't. I'm using a small quiet one pump hooked to the float switch to get the level where it needs to be. The entire float/pump setup is pictured in the first page.