Drip system questions

[tcav88]

Similar to how the hoses on a python are held

 

[tcav88]

So I've ordered the line yesterday as well as the sharkbite ball valve and pressure gauge and a 1/2" to 1/4" reducing coupling that I'll run the 1/4" line to the emitter in the tank with....does all this sound good?

 

[TheWolfman]

Take a looks at my thread in the Cichla forum I just set up my drip but I had better results putting a ball valve before the pressure regulator, I kept getting minor leaks from the pvc threads. Once I turned down my pressure all problems went away. I still have the pressure regulator as insurance but I’m running even less pressure then 25 now. I also had issues with the plastic drip line and found that regular airline tubing to be much better.

 

[tcav88]

Take a looks at my thread in the Cichla forum I just set up my drip but I had better results putting a ball valve before the pressure regulator, I kept getting minor leaks from the pvc threads. Once I turned down my pressure all problems went away. I still have the pressure regulator as insurance but I’m running even less pressure then 25 now. I also had issues with the plastic drip line and found that regular airline tubing to be much better.

I was gonna use the ball valve before the gauge and close the line untill I get the desired psi on my gauge instead of using an actual regulator if I go that route

 

[tcav88]

Also this line was gonna be used to connect the sharkbite push to connects untill it connects to the 1/2" to 1/4" reducing coupling which I will probably run rodi tubing or airline tubing from there to an emitter

 

[tcav88]

TheWolfman I can't find your thread could you link me?

 

[squint]

I was gonna use the ball valve before the gauge and close the line untill I get the desired psi on my gauge instead of using an actual regulator if I go that route

You need a globe valve for that. Ball or gate valves shouldn't be left partially open.

 

[TheWolfman]

TheWolfman I can't find your thread could you link me?

https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/did-someone-say-water-change.702000/

Honestly I would focus on the rate of the actual drip as opposed to an actual psi. I have a brass needle valve that is just cracked open and I restrict the drip at the tank with a adjustable admitter. It takes a little tome to tune in correctly but once it’s set you can forget about it. The reason I did it this way was because I kept having pinhole leaks around the barbed fitting where it chokes down to the tubing, and by keeping the psi very low greatly reduced the chances of a leak down the road.

 

[tcav88]

Y'all have lost me I don't think you guys understand what I'm talking about lol

 

[tcav88]

You need a globe valve for that. Ball or gate valves shouldn't be left partially open.

the person who recommended I use the ball valve to regulate the pressure has been dripping for quite some time, don't think a globe valve is needed.

https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/did-someone-say-water-change.702000/

Honestly I would focus on the rate of the actual drip as opposed to an actual psi. I have a brass needle valve that is just cracked open and I restrict the drip at the tank with a adjustable admitter. It takes a little tome to tune in correctly but once it’s set you can forget about it. The reason I did it this way was because I kept having pinhole leaks around the barbed fitting where it chokes down to the tubing, and by keeping the psi very low greatly reduced the chances of a leak down the road.

I am not piercing the line and running individual emitters off the line I'm running one line from the reducing coupler to the 450gallon then when I need to add other lines down the road I'll close the ball valve and tee off the 1/4" line to other tanks