Efficient monster filtration Design Discussion

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Dr Joe;2161409; said:
This thread is entertaining if nothing else ;).

A blockbuster movie is entertaining. This thread is amusing, like a dog chasing its tail.
 
Here's something I've been thinking of using for my "dream tank" using powerheads. It was inspired by another Monster DIY who's name/project slip my mind at the moment. Was hoping to use something like this for a 200 gallon Archerfish setup with a 3 foot tall enclosed airspace above the tank.

I was hoping to build something myself that was in tank that wouldn't cause alot of surface movement. No clue how it would work but i remember seeing something simular on a previous DIY setup. Looked very slick.

The idea is to make the bioball and filter carbon a couple of cartriges that would slip into the back and seal off with a rubber gasket that would be glued to the walls to keep the water from bypassing. One fine bubble airstone infront of the bioballs and one larger airstone on the left side to airate the tank itself. I'm a long way from the undertaking but I thought I'd take advantage of the thread and throw this out there.

I always understock my tanks so the bioload would be medium to low.

Brainstorm.GIF
 
IITUFFTOBEATII;2163034; said:
A blockbuster movie is entertaining. This thread is amusing, like a dog chasing its tail.

I'm really not entirely sure what amuses you guys about this. If you don't have anything but comments like this to contribute, don't say anything at all. I'm not chasing a perpetual motion machine, I'm trying to use some reasoning, alongside a mechanical engineering degree to save some energy and hence some money. Maybe I'll fail, but if I never asked the question, how would I ever find the answer? If nothing else, some people are learning a little bit about thermodynamics and energy conservation; if you're not, go ahead and continue throwing away 80% of the energy you put into your filtration system like there's no other way.
 
justin guest;2162931; said:
I´m in agreement on this one. That´s why I wrote my original post in this thread where for the minimal head loss of a couple of inches you could implement a low head pump like a large powerhead to run a large filter slightly above water level.
j<><

Gotcha, didn't mean to bite your head off. Seems a bit like some folks are laughing at things they may or may not understand, so I wanted to be sure we were clear!
 
justin guest;2163026; said:

That's a really interesting article... taking water at turbulent flow rates and making it behave a bit laminar, and a bit turbulent.

Still doesn't help with the problem of putting energy into the water to lift it up to tank height, and then letting it fall back down to sump height, but it might reduce your piping losses. They say some sharks and fish excrete something that may be similar... I wonder if keeping one of those fish would impact your filter's consumption! :p

Probly not, but that would be fairly hilarious in a dorky sort of way.
 
I think the only real way to see what would happen is to just do it and see if it works. Otherwise you'd never know. It's still beyond me that if your tank and filter are the same height the powerhead would pull the water up and push it forward into the tank. Is everyone trying to say that the water pressure pushing back into the powerhead would prevent it from functioning properly? Maybe I should just use a powerhead on my rugf. lol.
 
siphoning into a filter above the tank/pond by use of a 1 1/4" hose on a pump, suspend 7' above tank/pond straight up from a pump, then have 13 feet going down hill falling into a wet/dry that falls back into tank/pond, use the pump to start the flow and then shut it off to let the siphon action work? multiple hoses, or larger hoses for larger tanks, more hose on the downhill side to increase water speed and gravitational pull to increase flow and pull through mech filtration.
 
googled perpetual motion and got a big bummer to my idea. damn physics.
 
Here is what Dark Rivers Hatchery is planning on using to filter 3 1800 gallon fw stingray indoor ponds read the link http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/Aquabead/aquabead_plus.html

the Medusa solves the age old problem of how to filter a large pond while only using one filter.
The problem: Pond is 20 to 25 thousand gallons. You want to turn it over about every 2 hours. A 1/4 hp pump will put out about 5000 gallons an hour.
This means you need two filter systems to accomplish this and stay with energy efficient pumps or a giant pool pump moving 10,000 gallons an hour and costing you an arm and a leg in energy costs.
The Solution: Medusa

With this filter you can run two 1/4 hp or two 1/3 hp pumps and only pull about 5 amps total with the 1/4 hp pumps or 7.6 amps total with the two 1/3 hp pumps.

The Medusa is designed in such a way that all valves and internals of the filter are double that of a regular filter. At no time does each pumps water pathway get smaller than a 2" opening.
Every thing is double on this filter so that we maximize the flow potential of each pump. Everything is double on this filter except the price, you'll spend less money on 1 Medusa than installing 2 individual filters.
The Medusa is designed with the same integrity as the AquaBead filters. Designed to maximize the flow and efficiency of today's modern koi pond pumps.

We remain committed to providing the most energy conscious filtration products in the industry. The Medusa will let you filter a 20,000 - 25,000 gallon pond on a total of only 5 amps!


listed at bottom on page on link .

The medusa has a flow rate of about 250 gpm which is great and can hook into a in line heater that keeps things nice.

Our vats are 15'LX4'WX4'TALL

let me know what you think


Jason



 
MonsterFishKeepers.com