F1, F2, F3... Does it matter to you?

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To me it doesnt really matter if the ray is F1 or 2 or 3 as long as it fits my liking. I guess you can classify me as the typical person who thinks looks are everything.

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A few years ago no i was not now that i know better Absolutly Trev!!!!That and let's start considering the amount of wild rays taken from the wild that end up dead for one reason or another ....And to be responsible as Hobbiest this is something to consider A breeder takes alot of time and $$$$ to do this the end result is most times better and healthier product and should not question a few dollers more JMO...

^This. Good explanation Ed. Time, documentation, commitment, and money invested by the breeder in their project/system is worth paying a slight premium for the peace of mind your receiving a quality specimen. Better care, healthier/happier ray, better pattern.

For me as far as the F1, F2, F3...the one thing that I would want to ensure is that there are a sufficient number of bloodlines to limit inbreeding/overlap.
 
For me as far as the F1, F2, F3...the one thing that I would want to ensure is that there are a sufficient number of bloodlines to limit inbreeding/overlap.

Unless the f2 or f3 are from the same breeder and they can tell you the exact line of the fish you can't be sure they are not inbred. So many of the imported fish from Asia are inbred. They don't care about that they are looking for patterns to get the most money. By inbreeding you can induce broken patterns as a defect that comes up. Many people like the patterns like that but looking at a lot of the wild fish they tend to have a "cleaner pattern" in most cases. There are exceptions to this but generally speaking, not counting any hybrids.


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For me as far as the F1, F2, F3...the one thing that I would want to ensure is that there are a sufficient number of bloodlines to limit inbreeding/overlap.

This would be the one thing I'd b worried about. There's probably someone out there just breeding for the $$$ .
And there's really no way to tell.
But for me with limited funds, if the ray looks good and the price is right, I'll probably buy it.

So what should the price difference be between f1 and f3?

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+1

If for no other reason than reducing the impact of the hobby on wild populations!

Matt

A few years ago no i was not now that i know better Absolutly Trev!!!!That and let's start considering the amount of wild rays taken from the wild that end up dead for one reason or another ....And to be responsible as Hobbiest this is something to consider A breeder takes alot of time and $$$$ to do this the end result is most times better and healthier product and should not question a few dollers more JMO...
 
Great comments guys thanks. It never rely mattered to me as long as i like the quality of the ray and as long as there were no inbreeding in the breeding group

I never got into labeling my pups but maybe i should.


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All that really matters to me is wild or captive breed. I will never purchase another wild ray. There is simply no need to with all the people breeding them

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Great comments guys thanks. It never rely mattered to me as long as i like the quality of the ray and as long as there were no inbreeding in the breeding group

I never got into labeling my pups but maybe i should.


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I do not think that labeling your pups will change anything in regards to sales considering how many you pump out and how your the main guy for leo or leo/hen pups on this site. I am sure if someone was interested in the label they would pm you or respond to a for sale thread with the question.

It all loops back to if the breeder is reputable and the quality/pattern is there then that is all I am concerned about.
 
imo it really depends... if your breeding imo its only ethical to keep some form of records for tracking bloodlines.. but quality is quality and until some system is devised( like the AKC is for dogs as an example ect) I prefer wild or F1s. Hate to see what happened to alot of cichlids happen to rays.
 
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