Eh, I never really care for misting system... when there is a room humidifer they use for music stores. Although some of the stuff they use in the chicken industry can easily be transferred to the herptile industry, I just wonder why they haven't done it yet.
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- Thread starter ercnan
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davo;932272; said:
Nothing wrong with the bottle at all. Just makes one more thing to "take care of itself" so to speak. In my line of work, I commonly get called out at odd hours, and don't know for sure how long I'll be out. The wife handles the kids and other stuff, so she sometimes is not here to do it either.Makes it more "consistant" I think.
Plus, I'm DIY geek at times anyway. Why buy something when I can build it myself.
TheBloodyIrish;932294; said:
You could be the first to apply it to "us".
Being an HVAC service tech, using a "room" humidifier souds good initially, but "wetting" the enitire room to the levels required by some animals could lead to mold/mildew issues in the areas that don't "dry" out. Humidifiying the enclosure is a much better option IMO.
davo;932315; said:
Thus the reason for a "humidity indicator" (hygrometer/psycrometer) in the enclosure. A quick glance will tell you if it's working or not.
davo;932331; said:
It's really very easy. Just click on the my previos post link, study it for a bit, and I think it will be clear that it's nothing more than a canister of water and 2 tubes. One tube goes to the bottom attached to an airstone, the other attaches to the top. Apply air on the tube going to the bottom, which results in bubbles at the surface just like aquariums. Those bubbles "pop" creating a fine "wet" humid mist which gets pushed out the other tube because it has nowhere else to go.
Sorry, lots of words for such a simple thing
Cheaper ?? Do just as well ?? (almost)davo;932365; said:needed for such a simple person
I think "misters" and "humidifiers" can be classified as two different things.
Misters actually make the surfaces visably wet, which does increase humidity.
Humidifiers, on the other hand don't make things "wet" persay, just increase the amount of water molecules present in the air.
I liken the two as a mister being like rain, and a humidifier being like a hot "muggy" summer day.
I think that if you want to lower the humidity level after lights out, a humidifier on a timer with the lights is the way to go. It will dissipate faster than a wet surface drying out. The longer it stays wet, the more potential for mold/mildew/fungus to develop.
This thing I made this evening raised the humid level 15% in an hour with the lights on and the heat pad. The heat pad stays on all the time, but the "humidifier" turns off with the lights. The lights turned off an hour ago, and the humid is already down to 70% with the enclosure half covered by a bath towel. The ATB before this "thing" was laying on the bottom of the cage coiled up. (new guy, so I guess that's a little understandable), but now he's in the tree. I think he likes the "thing". He's positioned himself where he's getting the direct output of the humid tube. He now has more options to make himself comfortable.
In the tube output for more humid, on the floor above the pad for for belly heat, or underneath the light if it's on for basking heat.
This thing I made this evening raised the humid level 15% in an hour with the lights on and the heat pad. The heat pad stays on all the time, but the "humidifier" turns off with the lights. The lights turned off an hour ago, and the humid is already down to 70% with the enclosure half covered by a bath towel. The ATB before this "thing" was laying on the bottom of the cage coiled up. (new guy, so I guess that's a little understandable), but now he's in the tree. I think he likes the "thing". He's positioned himself where he's getting the direct output of the humid tube. He now has more options to make himself comfortable.
In the tube output for more humid, on the floor above the pad for for belly heat, or underneath the light if it's on for basking heat.
