A days worth of debris. Bench test went well at 800 gph. It will be the gunk growing on it. That will make it fail.
Filtering strategy
- Thread starter Oughtsix
- Start date
A days worth of debris. Bench test went well at 800 gph. It will be the gunk growing on it. That will make it fail.
My goal is to reduce mantenance. Improve water quality. A working seive will effectively remove waste, out of the flow of water. Stopping a lot of nitrates, from ever beginning.
It is a project in the works.
Filter socks plug up, and become bags full of dripping water. Filter floss works great but needs frequent cleaning.
So I thought I would try a seive.
.
It is a project in the works.
Filter socks plug up, and become bags full of dripping water. Filter floss works great but needs frequent cleaning.
So I thought I would try a seive.
.
I also have a feeding problem. It keeps her interested in the hobby. So I tolerate it, and Diy build it faster. Alger scrubbers, canister denitrator, filter seive, fixing the basement foundation ; I needed a bigger tank, and I think it keeps the fish content. Having plentiful food supply.
do yourself a favor setup a good proper sump and a drip system
with a emergency drain rigged with a float valve of the sorts... also
do some research on rid x or similar septic tank products they work
wonders.. also stop over feeding... over feeding cause ammonia &
nitrites. with these you wont be doing anything but cleaning or replacing
the filter pads/floss once in a while and the occasional w/c here & there
but the w/c isnt needed with a drip system. so pretty much u feed your
fish and enjoy the tank.
with a emergency drain rigged with a float valve of the sorts... also
do some research on rid x or similar septic tank products they work
wonders.. also stop over feeding... over feeding cause ammonia &
nitrites. with these you wont be doing anything but cleaning or replacing
the filter pads/floss once in a while and the occasional w/c here & there
but the w/c isnt needed with a drip system. so pretty much u feed your
fish and enjoy the tank.
It would be nice, if I could continously drip. Unfortunately I live in Iowa, we're our drinking water under goes, reverse osmosis. To remove nitrate. That agriculture produces. Which makes our potable water supplies very expensive.
I have a sump of the same volume as the aquarium. Currently I water change 33% weekly, and nitrates are about 15ppm.
Filtering out the excess food, before it decomposes is the purpose, of the seive.
I have a sump of the same volume as the aquarium. Currently I water change 33% weekly, and nitrates are about 15ppm.
Filtering out the excess food, before it decomposes is the purpose, of the seive.
u really should do 50% or more on wc doing only 33% is pointless.
whole point of wc is to remove the old water with high ammonia &
nitrites and add new water to dilute the water remaining in the tank
to maintain a good water parameter. doing such a low amount every
week defeats the purpose of wc unless your doing 33% 2-3x a week.
and as i said stop over feeding. just stopping over feeding will give you
better water parameters and the need to "filter" out excess food & wastes
that causes the water to pollute.
whole point of wc is to remove the old water with high ammonia &
nitrites and add new water to dilute the water remaining in the tank
to maintain a good water parameter. doing such a low amount every
week defeats the purpose of wc unless your doing 33% 2-3x a week.
and as i said stop over feeding. just stopping over feeding will give you
better water parameters and the need to "filter" out excess food & wastes
that causes the water to pollute.
Maybe. My tap water is 10 to 15 ppm nitrate, It is diluted with RO water, at the county water treatment plant.
So I change it at 20 ppm, with 10 ppm tap water. I also have an algae scrubber. That removes a lot of wastes.
Any way, I am hoping of a interesting discussion on seive screens, angles, and Gpd flows per square inch of 100 micron screens vs 300 microns.
Perhaps a 25 micron rotating drum. with a high pressure back flushing spray.
72 hours still flowing well.
So I change it at 20 ppm, with 10 ppm tap water. I also have an algae scrubber. That removes a lot of wastes.
Any way, I am hoping of a interesting discussion on seive screens, angles, and Gpd flows per square inch of 100 micron screens vs 300 microns.
Perhaps a 25 micron rotating drum. with a high pressure back flushing spray.
72 hours still flowing well.
Huh?
A water change is for nitrate and has nearly no impact on ammonia and nitrite in a cycled well filtered aquarium. Also the amount of water you change only depends on the rate at which you build up nitrate. If you are building nitrate slowly 30% or even 10% weekly water changes could work indefinitely. That isn't common but to say 50% or its a waste is not logical.
