Filtration and setup for 300 SA/CA Community

[Frostyone]

I'm picking up a 8'x2'x2.5' 300 gallon next weekend, here's what I plan on doing filtration wise. Any input and suggestions are very much welcome and appreciated.

First, it will be stocked with between 10-15 large SA/CA's all of which will grow to 12"+ and maybe a pbass or two and a tsnxrtc.

My plan as of now are to build a 75 gallon w/d for bio, and get an FX5 for mech. I'm also looking at running a 36w UV sterilizer on the tank as well.

The tank is not drilled so I plan on getting one of the Eshoppes overflow boxes to feed the w/d, the PF-1800 to be exact and match it with an 1800gph pump.

If you all could throw out some pump recommendations in the 1800-2000 gph range I'd appreciate it. Right now I'm looking at the mag pumps.

Would it benefit me more to run 2 smaller overflow boxes? Like say 2 PF-1200's or 1000's?

And I plan on running the UV off the FX5.

So, all in all does that sound like a good plan?

Thanks!

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[CoryWM]

I'm picking up a 8'x2'x2.5' 300 gallon next weekend, here's what I plan on doing filtration wise. Any input and suggestions are very much welcome and appreciated.

First, it will be stocked with between 10-15 large SA/CA's all of which will grow to 12"+ and maybe a pbass or two and a tsnxrtc.

My plan as of now are to build a 75 gallon w/d for bio, and get an FX5 for mech. I'm also looking at running a 36w UV sterilizer on the tank as well.

The tank is not drilled so I plan on getting one of the Eshoppes overflow boxes to feed the w/d, the PF-1800 to be exact and match it with an 1800gph pump.

If you all could throw out some pump recommendations in the 1800-2000 gph range I'd appreciate it. Right now I'm looking at the mag pumps.

Would it benefit me more to run 2 smaller overflow boxes? Like say 2 PF-1200's or 1000's?

And I plan on running the UV off the FX5.

So, all in all does that sound like a good plan?

Thanks!

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I think the flow from the fx5 is goign to be too much for the 36 watt uv, if you're planning to kill ich or anything like that. It's exposure time to the light that kills things. not cycling through the tank more.

I would only use 1 overflow, and put it in 1 corner. So you can feed at the other side of the tank and not get it running into the overflow. I'd also add 3 aquaclear 110s with a sponge on the intank. Ie, very left corner, over flow, every 2 feet after that have an aquaclear 110. I'd also put a large powerhead on the bottom right of the tank, blowing towards the fx5 intake, which i'd position that on the lft side near the overflow box, and the output of that on the right side of the tank. to get a nice flow.

The 110s are going to create a nice sweeping effect going from top, to front glass, to bottom and finally bouncing to the back wall, where it'll be pushed down the back wall by the power head into the fx5 intake.

 

[Frostyone]

I definately plan on adding a powerhead or 2 to push debris towards the filter intakes. I'd really like to stay away from HOBs truth be told. I may get a smaller pump just to dedicate to the UV, something in the 350-500 gph range to give the water more exposure time to the light.
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[Toby_H]

Options are endless….

I use a lot of UV lights and I run mine at 10 gph per 1W and this keeps my tanks parasite free… so this would be an actual flow rate of 360 or less for your 36 W. You could either add a canister somewhere else in the system to feed the UV or put a T in the FX5 return line. Using a PowerHead is also an option but I shy away from this (debris being pushed through the UV can scratch the quartz sleeve reducing the UV clarity.

I just ordered some Hydor Korlia powerheads. They have a fanning out pattern as opposed to a straight line… I have some saltwater friends who use them and they seem like they would work great for pushing larger waste towards a filter intake.

Personally, I would see about having the tank drilled as opposed to using an overflow box… but that’s just me…

I’ve heard of this but have not tried it… create a PVC sray bar that goes the length of your tank at the top/front corner… drill holes every couple/few inches so the water shoots down the front pane. Just make sure the spray bar is always submersed so it doesn’t push bubbles down the front pane. This is supposed to prevent any algae build up on the front glass.

I’ve have a few Mag pumps. They work great if they are to be submersed, but I hate them for non-submersed applications. It’s very difficult to get a tight connection and the housing cracks quite easily. I’m currently using SEN brand pumps and as a first impression I am very impressed with them (I’ve had several in use for about 6 months). These are much easier to seal and work better in non-submersed situations… and work excellent submersed as well. I got my SEN pumps from Kensfish.com

My suggestion would be to set up the sump… then slowly add additional filtration as needed. You can add a HOB or PowerHead at any time as you realize what you need.

I’ve seen, but have never owned an 8’ 300 gal… Congratts…

 

[CoryWM]

Options are endless….

I use a lot of UV lights and I run mine at 10 gph per 1W and this keeps my tanks parasite free… so this would be an actual flow rate of 360 or less for your 36 W. You could either add a canister somewhere else in the system to feed the UV or put a T in the FX5 return line. Using a PowerHead is also an option but I shy away from this (debris being pushed through the UV can scratch the quartz sleeve reducing the UV clarity.

I just ordered some Hydor Korlia powerheads. They have a fanning out pattern as opposed to a straight line… I have some saltwater friends who use them and they seem like they would work great for pushing larger waste towards a filter intake.

Personally, I would see about having the tank drilled as opposed to using an overflow box… but that’s just me…

I’ve heard of this but have not tried it… create a PVC sray bar that goes the length of your tank at the top/front corner… drill holes every couple/few inches so the water shoots down the front pane. Just make sure the spray bar is always submersed so it doesn’t push bubbles down the front pane. This is supposed to prevent any algae build up on the front glass.

I’ve have a few Mag pumps. They work great if they are to be submersed, but I hate them for non-submersed applications. It’s very difficult to get a tight connection and the housing cracks quite easily. I’m currently using SEN brand pumps and as a first impression I am very impressed with them (I’ve had several in use for about 6 months). These are much easier to seal and work better in non-submersed situations… and work excellent submersed as well. I got my SEN pumps from Kensfish.com

My suggestion would be to set up the sump… then slowly add additional filtration as needed. You can add a HOB or PowerHead at any time as you realize what you need.
I’ve seen, but have never owned an 8’ 300 gal… Congratts…

I like the 1 watt per 10 gph rule. It is a good rule and would ring true to most manufacturers of the UV lights.

I've build my own spraybars. It couldn't be more easy really. And it does add alot of surface agitation. Which you will need if you're not gonna run the HoBs

 

[Frostyone]

I'm selling my 125 to appease the g/f so I can get the 300, I'm not selling the filters with it, so I'll also have a Cascade 100 and a Fluval 404. I could run the UV off one of those and also run spraybars off their returns, one on each end of the tank.

And yea, those are the powerheads I was looking at, I like them much more than the traditional old school ones.
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[CoryWM]

I'm selling my 125 to appease the g/f so I can get the 300, I'm not selling the filters with it, so I'll also have a Cascade 100 and a Fluval 404. I could run the UV off one of those and also run spraybars off their returns, one on each end of the tank.

And yea, those are the powerheads I was looking at, I like them much more than the traditional old school ones.
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Well you could certainly do that with those old filters. What are you gonna do for the return from the sump? It's super easy to just have the tubing connect to the end of the pvc, spraybar... ANd you'd have nice strong flow going through the spraybar.

 

[Frostyone]

Yea, I might put a big spraybar on the pump return, what size PVC should I make it from? 1/2"? Maybe 6' long.

 

[CoryWM]

Yea, I might put a big spraybar on the pump return, what size PVC should I make it from? 1/2"? Maybe 6' long.

I used 3/4 for a 4 foot one on a 5 foot tank. I wanted to make sure I had a big enough diameter, so that my fx5 didnt have the flow restricted. I'd go with 3/4 and start with like 1/8 inch holes and see where that gets you. To be honest, i'd buy enough supplies to make atleast 2, so you can get it just like you want it... costs like 5 bucks for the supplys to make one. If you get it right on the first, you'll have some extra

 

[Frostyone]

Yea, you also gotta remember I'm going to have a 1800-2000 gph pump hooked up to the spraybar, that's quite a bit more flow than a FX5

So yea, 3/4" for a 6-7' bar sounds about right, that'll work out good cause it'll agitate almost the entire surface area of the tank, that and a big w/d (with an airstone under the bio chamber) the water will be well oxygenated