What if you hooked the UV filter up to the sump with a seperate pump?
When you do put the 125 up for sale, let me know.
When you do put the 125 up for sale, let me know.
Filtration and setup for 300 SA/CA Community
- Thread starter Frostyone
- Start date
gobucks1;2308398; said:
I had actually thought of running a seperate smaller pump in the sump just for that, but I've got all these extra canisters laying around, I didn't think about debris getting into the UV and screwing things up. I'd feel safer with some sort of filtration prior to it entering the UV. I can just pack the Cascade's trays with floss and run it off that. It'll have to pass through 4 trays of mech before getting to the UV.
Oh, and the 125 is already sold
sorry. If something falls through I'll contact you next.
I would use the 404 for the UV since you have it. You could also use a power head in the sump...your sump at the end should be clear of junk that would scratch. I have a 240 long that I am going to run a wet dry on and have a 36w uv as well and might run a fx5 on the tank. I will probably use a small PH for the UV or T off my main return pump. Do you want 2000gph pump total or is that what you want to run through the tank. I am shooting for 2000gph running through the tank so I got a reflo barracuda pump. It starts at 4300gph and after all the plumbing im sure it will be over 2kgph but I will have a valve in place to fine tune it. I could also T off that pump for the UV if I find I have enough GPH. I got the pump from aquacave.com for 298 shipped. They have good prices and free shipping on orders over like 175.
NOLAGT;2309210; said:
The UV will work well as long as the recommended flow rate through it is not exceeded. A 36 Watt UV can handle the flow rate of an FX5. BTW, Reflos are great pumps. We've got a big Hammerhead pump running our mechanical filtration system. It performs flawlessly. We have a very strong swift current in the tank which our fish love.
Frosty - I think your making the right decision to use a canister for the UV… especially since you already have the ‘extra’ canister laying around…
Others - The “Max flow rate” listed on the UV light packaging is the max flow rate the UV housing can handle… not the max rate it is the UV is affective at. Also UV lights are affective at different things at different flow rates… Remember manufacturers pay marketers millions of dollars to think of ways to manipulate the consumer… pay very close attention to wording…
As for the sump/pumps… I personally would consider using two 900 gph pumps as opposed to one 1800 gph pump. Check the wattage each consumes. With most brands the 1800 will use more watts than 2x 900s. But 2x 900s will cost more at the initial purchase.
Another benefit this will offer is you can use only one pump if/when desired… it will also be easier to use one pump for the spray bar and another pump for the UGJ or other modified return. Again I’ve had a great experience with the SEN pumps from Kensfish.com.
As for the spray bar, I completely agree you want to avoid reducing flow. To do this I personally would have the water come from the pump to a T… at the T ½ would go to the spray bar (keeping this line as short as possible) and ½ would go to the other end to the bottom of the tank using the idea that more bends is better. Since the non-spray bar end will have to push down through 24”+ of water, this will mean the spray bar will function at a respectable PSI, but the water will still be allowed to flow freely out the submerged end. This will allow an increase in PSA coming out of the pump… will create some minor backpressure… but will not stress the pump…
Others - The “Max flow rate” listed on the UV light packaging is the max flow rate the UV housing can handle… not the max rate it is the UV is affective at. Also UV lights are affective at different things at different flow rates… Remember manufacturers pay marketers millions of dollars to think of ways to manipulate the consumer… pay very close attention to wording…
As for the sump/pumps… I personally would consider using two 900 gph pumps as opposed to one 1800 gph pump. Check the wattage each consumes. With most brands the 1800 will use more watts than 2x 900s. But 2x 900s will cost more at the initial purchase.
Another benefit this will offer is you can use only one pump if/when desired… it will also be easier to use one pump for the spray bar and another pump for the UGJ or other modified return. Again I’ve had a great experience with the SEN pumps from Kensfish.com.
As for the spray bar, I completely agree you want to avoid reducing flow. To do this I personally would have the water come from the pump to a T… at the T ½ would go to the spray bar (keeping this line as short as possible) and ½ would go to the other end to the bottom of the tank using the idea that more bends is better. Since the non-spray bar end will have to push down through 24”+ of water, this will mean the spray bar will function at a respectable PSI, but the water will still be allowed to flow freely out the submerged end. This will allow an increase in PSA coming out of the pump… will create some minor backpressure… but will not stress the pump…
nc_nutcase;2309939; said:
It must have been your post I read about that flow rate through the UV. It makes sence to me and thats how I look at it now...I also like the sound of the 10gph per 1watt. They tell you not to put a valve on the outflow of the UV so it doenst get over pressurized and leak...so going over the GPH they state as a max flow would do the same.
As for the pumps I would look at the reflos still. I dont know what GPH your shooting for after head loss but look at it like this. One reflo Barracuda flows 4300gph and the max watts is 253. A mag 18 flows 1800gph and max watts is 145. The reeflos really are low watt draw pumps and flow lots of water. I agree tho 2 pumps isnt a bad idea incase one goes out. But I had a Iwiki pump on my reef tank that ran 24/7 for 8 years with out a hitch. I have other back up pumps I can make due with if my one main pump goes out...but that thing might never go out....
