I clean it once a month now(only a quick rinse of 1st two top draws with foams and floss) , and water is always crystal clear , amonia at 0 , + dripping system, its a 300 gal tank, u can check my signature links..
Filtration for 180 Gallon
- Thread starter Pazzoman
- Start date
I clean it once a month now(only a quick rinse of 1st two top draws with foams and floss) , and water is always crystal clear , amonia at 0 , + dripping system, its a 300 gal tank, u can check my signature links..
Just build a chambered sump out of a 75 or 90 gallon. Run socks in 7" diameter. They won't clog as easy. Set it up easy up keep high turnover lots bio. Heater chamber.
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Like the ideas mentioned, however I wont be able to have an auto drip system running, which is what I would love to have to eliminate the labor and time consuming of water changes.
Might just do like mentioned, how my sump was for the 72.
Ok now the fun part!
Lets say I use a 75 gallon tank.
-3 chambers
- 1st compartment filter socks and heater
- 2nd compartment filled to the max with pond matrix
-3rd compartment return pump
Thats basically how i have with my 72....is that ok?
Should I add anything else?
Do you guys do anything special with the pond matrix (i.e. air bubbles under the matrix?)
-this 180 will have two corner overflows, I have never had two corner overholes...do they connect on the bottom and lead to the first compartment?
-How do I correctly measure "turn over"? Can I just get a very high rated return pump like the mag 18 or even the 24 that turns the tank 10x-13x(if possible as a return pump) and avoid adding korilla pumps?
Sorry for so many questions lol
Might just do like mentioned, how my sump was for the 72.
Ok now the fun part!
Lets say I use a 75 gallon tank.
-3 chambers
- 1st compartment filter socks and heater
- 2nd compartment filled to the max with pond matrix
-3rd compartment return pump
Thats basically how i have with my 72....is that ok?
Should I add anything else?
Do you guys do anything special with the pond matrix (i.e. air bubbles under the matrix?)
-this 180 will have two corner overflows, I have never had two corner overholes...do they connect on the bottom and lead to the first compartment?
-How do I correctly measure "turn over"? Can I just get a very high rated return pump like the mag 18 or even the 24 that turns the tank 10x-13x(if possible as a return pump) and avoid adding korilla pumps?
Sorry for so many questions lol
Sounds like a simple and good layout. Use the kiss method. As far as pumps. Get yourself a laguna 2000 for that tank. It will be plenty.
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Thanks I never heard of that pump, is it good? Is it better then the mag pumps?...im just used to mag pumps lol
Also I will be posting a new thread to further go in detail if certain equipment should be added to sumps...
Mags suck. Unless you have a money tree. Look at the efficiency rating on them. They suck ridiculous amounts of power for the water they pump. They do however work well doubling as heaters. Not a good thing in the summer.
Any submersible pump could potentially have stray voltage problems. If your water is hard you'll need to descale them several times a year. I couldn't run the Pondmaster 4700 submersible I had for more then 4-5 months before it would lock up do to deposits on the impeller.
Most ray keepers would agree that more turnover is better. I just did a 180 for a buddy and we used a Dart on it and seems to work well. BUT, I had to knock a pair of holes in it for (2) 2" bulkhead fittings for drains. IF you're capable of drilling drain holes you can use however big of pump you want, BUT if what you have is what you're going to run and can't modify then those drain holes are going to dictate how big of pump you can run, unless you're going to reroute return water through a bio tower or something of that nature.
I run a small fleet of Reeflo Darts and Dolphin 3Ks. Hard to beat the efficiency vs cost vs reliability.
Look at wattage rating on Korilias and it's easy to see why so many people love them.
I'd personally run a simple sump with a reactor/UV loop off it, but it may take a little work, research, and DIY skills to go this route.
Any submersible pump could potentially have stray voltage problems. If your water is hard you'll need to descale them several times a year. I couldn't run the Pondmaster 4700 submersible I had for more then 4-5 months before it would lock up do to deposits on the impeller.
Most ray keepers would agree that more turnover is better. I just did a 180 for a buddy and we used a Dart on it and seems to work well. BUT, I had to knock a pair of holes in it for (2) 2" bulkhead fittings for drains. IF you're capable of drilling drain holes you can use however big of pump you want, BUT if what you have is what you're going to run and can't modify then those drain holes are going to dictate how big of pump you can run, unless you're going to reroute return water through a bio tower or something of that nature.
I run a small fleet of Reeflo Darts and Dolphin 3Ks. Hard to beat the efficiency vs cost vs reliability.
Look at wattage rating on Korilias and it's easy to see why so many people love them.
I'd personally run a simple sump with a reactor/UV loop off it, but it may take a little work, research, and DIY skills to go this route.
After looking at the mag pumps...never notice how much wattage they used which is ridiculous. Are you saying drill drain holes in the sump to attach a non-submersible pump?
Im looking at the laguna 2000 and seems pretty good especially with the watts which makes me debate on possibly (if I go with the laguna) going with the 2400. However I have trouble seeing this in a sump do you have any pictures? @aquaticfan?
Yes, you need a hole in the sump to plum an external pump like a Dart.
Like I said, IF you're planning on rays most run high turnover. Just cause a pump is rated at 2k doesn't mean that's what it will do. You need to find a pump curve chart, by the time you get several feet of head involved it might not flow near what it's supposed to.
I'd highly recommend looking into the cost of ray life support systems before committing to rays. Good pumps, bio media, and UVs are not cheap.
Like I said, IF you're planning on rays most run high turnover. Just cause a pump is rated at 2k doesn't mean that's what it will do. You need to find a pump curve chart, by the time you get several feet of head involved it might not flow near what it's supposed to.
I'd highly recommend looking into the cost of ray life support systems before committing to rays. Good pumps, bio media, and UVs are not cheap.
Thanks defintly aware of the head which is why im thinking about going with the 2400 and if im not mistaken"heah" means how long the hose is till it makes it to the top of the tank and returns it, right?
I will look at the chart again, also like mentioned b4 korilla pumps will defitly be thrown in thier. Is
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I will look at the chart again, also like mentioned b4 korilla pumps will defitly be thrown in thier. Is
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