bass, when you say you sealed the bulkhead after, you mean with a silicon joint over it or a resin coat?
First ply tank- from 130 to 200 gals
- Thread starter leg89
- Start date
leg89;3522879; said:
Like I said, I fitted the bulkheads hand tight, then a little tighter with my wrench (like a 1/4 or 1/2 turn). The seal was not kinked/warped in any way.
leg89;3523459; said:
Yes, and here's a photo, it's not pretty, but it does the job.....
Bassinkorea;3524005; said:
not pretty is no problem for me!
(i mean, because of the background...i DO have certain problems, in certain situations, with "not pretty"...i have standards you know)
leg89;3524223; said:not pretty is no problem for me!
(i mean, because of the background...i DO have certain problems, in certain situations, with "not pretty"...i have standards you know)
I know what you mean
With you using a background, un-pretty shouldn't be a problem
so things are advancing! slowly, but still
i had a problem when i went to finish installing my bulkheads, the one that will be used for the aspiration of the UGJ pump had to be re-done. reason: some PVC glue went into the hole and impossible to screw the 90d fitting into it. only solution, do it again!
you can see the glue
this time, i put some kleenex in it (so it'll absorb glue instead) and let it dry upside down.
(forgot the picture of it drying upside down)
next: finally glueing the fittings in place after haven tighten em up
since i had some time left and had to wait for the silicon to dry to start the background, i made my UGJ piping. (roughly) i plan to wait till the first water test to check which jets need to have the smaller ends and vice versa. after i drain the water, i'll glue definitively the piping system.
first problem, my exit is to close from the bottom of the tank
solution:
(yeah i know, next time i'll take the price off before cutting...haha)
and an overview of the whole piping
note: there will be a eheim 2217 jet bar placed vertically in the right front corner, that's why there isn't any jet there. moreover, i'll have a driftwood on the left part (why the piping goes around it)
that's it for now!
i had a problem when i went to finish installing my bulkheads, the one that will be used for the aspiration of the UGJ pump had to be re-done. reason: some PVC glue went into the hole and impossible to screw the 90d fitting into it. only solution, do it again!
you can see the glue
this time, i put some kleenex in it (so it'll absorb glue instead) and let it dry upside down.
(forgot the picture of it drying upside down)
next: finally glueing the fittings in place after haven tighten em up
since i had some time left and had to wait for the silicon to dry to start the background, i made my UGJ piping. (roughly) i plan to wait till the first water test to check which jets need to have the smaller ends and vice versa. after i drain the water, i'll glue definitively the piping system.
first problem, my exit is to close from the bottom of the tank
solution:
(yeah i know, next time i'll take the price off before cutting...haha)
and an overview of the whole piping
note: there will be a eheim 2217 jet bar placed vertically in the right front corner, that's why there isn't any jet there. moreover, i'll have a driftwood on the left part (why the piping goes around it)
that's it for now!
ok well two things:
UGJ- i've been told that making the setup a closed system, i'd have the same power in every jet. i checked at the pools/spas company where i work in summers, and they told me that yes, spas jet systems are all closed in order to deal with that issue.
conclusion, i'll modify my system when i'll be up to the water test and run few tests before glueing everything in place!
Background- Finally! midterm exams this week so next week should be a huge step forward for this project. i'm now wondering if i could use plaster instead of ciment for my background. thing is, i'll mix it with chopped strand fiberglass and resin it after. but plaster is way easier to sculpt and paint, and less heavy and way cheaper.
your thoughts on plaster? i also thought about installing some chicken cage on the back of the tank so the plaster holds better and only inserting styrofoam where needed to save as much space as possible
UGJ- i've been told that making the setup a closed system, i'd have the same power in every jet. i checked at the pools/spas company where i work in summers, and they told me that yes, spas jet systems are all closed in order to deal with that issue.
conclusion, i'll modify my system when i'll be up to the water test and run few tests before glueing everything in place!
Background- Finally! midterm exams this week so next week should be a huge step forward for this project. i'm now wondering if i could use plaster instead of ciment for my background. thing is, i'll mix it with chopped strand fiberglass and resin it after. but plaster is way easier to sculpt and paint, and less heavy and way cheaper.
your thoughts on plaster? i also thought about installing some chicken cage on the back of the tank so the plaster holds better and only inserting styrofoam where needed to save as much space as possible
ok background started!
so the technique will be plaster on metal mesh, sand, paint and resin
first step: installing the mesh
i siliconed my washers just in case (though if they are necessary, it's a pretty bad sign)
then, the background itself. honestly, it took me quite a while to be sure i liked it. at first, i realized how fast plaster dries (thus, how unworkable it is). i just thought that i'd give a first thin layer everywhere anyways and see after.
put some styrofoam where i planned some bigger rocks so it doesn't weight a ton
finally, i like the look. the trick is to keep a water recipient near and always keep the plaster wet so you can work it till your satisfied with the result. while it's wet, i spray sand on it and mix it with the plaster so it looks more like natural rocks.
so i'll continue to make forms in the plaster with this technique and paint it afterwards (you'll see how
)
for those who aren't sure of the method, don't worry, i've been filming everything since the beginning so ... ho...did i just busted a punch line? :brow:
so the technique will be plaster on metal mesh, sand, paint and resin
first step: installing the mesh
i siliconed my washers just in case (though if they are necessary, it's a pretty bad sign)
then, the background itself. honestly, it took me quite a while to be sure i liked it. at first, i realized how fast plaster dries (thus, how unworkable it is). i just thought that i'd give a first thin layer everywhere anyways and see after.
put some styrofoam where i planned some bigger rocks so it doesn't weight a ton
finally, i like the look. the trick is to keep a water recipient near and always keep the plaster wet so you can work it till your satisfied with the result. while it's wet, i spray sand on it and mix it with the plaster so it looks more like natural rocks.
so i'll continue to make forms in the plaster with this technique and paint it afterwards (you'll see how
)for those who aren't sure of the method, don't worry, i've been filming everything since the beginning so ... ho...did i just busted a punch line? :brow:
leg89;3398252; said:
I have not read the entire thread.. but please build a new stand.
It's not worth the risk. It looks like an accident waiting to happen. Maybe not immediately, but do you want the corners to sag over time and develop a leak? Why chance it? All four corners should be supported all the way to the ground. Your bottom is plywood (and maybe 2 x 6).. Framing lumber that is not supported like you drew can move and change shape over time. This is no big deal in a house, but on an aquarium they could move enough to jeopardize your seal.
Just bite the bullet and build a new stand. Sell the old stand with the old tank, you'll sell it quicker that way.
Think of all the labor you are putting into this tank.. and about $500-600. Is it worth jeopardizing all that with a half baked stand , when you could build a proper stand in about 3 hours? No, it isn't.
