Fish are dieing after water changes
- Thread starter timmycat
- Start date
I used RO for nearly 13 years. I assumed it removed chloramine but it didn't and I was losing fish until I performed a total chlorine test and found that quite a bit was getting through. Using RO water will create more problems than it solves unless you really know what you're doing.
There are a lot of total chlorine tests that are test strips but I had trouble finding some that are either liquid, powder, or tablet. They should be out there though.
I think RO should be fed cold water only.
If you want to continue using RO water I would find out if you have chloramine and change to catalytic carbon if you do. Then get a total chlorine test and periodically test water after the carbon stages but before the RO membrane (most membranes will be damaged by chlorine).
If you have chloramine then you need to add a dechlorinator that can deal with ammonia such as Amquel or Hikari Ultimate or add on some DI stages. If you go the DI route, you would then have to test for ammonia breakthrough periodically.
I recommend pre-heating water in a large container or spare tank (I use a 55 gal barrel and/or unused 40 gal aquarium). Heat it up to aquarium temperature with aquarium heaters and then refill slowly.
I've never lost a fish after a water change after switching to this method.
You'll have to replenish gH and kH. I used Barr's gH booster for gH and sodium bicarbonate for kH. I now use potassium bicarbonate.
There are a lot of total chlorine tests that are test strips but I had trouble finding some that are either liquid, powder, or tablet. They should be out there though.
I think RO should be fed cold water only.
If you want to continue using RO water I would find out if you have chloramine and change to catalytic carbon if you do. Then get a total chlorine test and periodically test water after the carbon stages but before the RO membrane (most membranes will be damaged by chlorine).
If you have chloramine then you need to add a dechlorinator that can deal with ammonia such as Amquel or Hikari Ultimate or add on some DI stages. If you go the DI route, you would then have to test for ammonia breakthrough periodically.
I recommend pre-heating water in a large container or spare tank (I use a 55 gal barrel and/or unused 40 gal aquarium). Heat it up to aquarium temperature with aquarium heaters and then refill slowly.
I've never lost a fish after a water change after switching to this method.
You'll have to replenish gH and kH. I used Barr's gH booster for gH and sodium bicarbonate for kH. I now use potassium bicarbonate.
test the water without the ro system... I am guessing that its worse...
figure out how many gallons of water you change out in a week... and buy these to that amount https://www.homedepot.com/p/55-Gal-Blue-Industrial-Plastic-Drum-PTH0933/205845768
then put a sponge filter in the drum and have the water sit there for a week (after sponge filter is cycled) this will help get the ammonia down to where your fish can deal with it... But remember ammonia is SUPER poisonous to fish try to get NO ammonia!
figure out how many gallons of water you change out in a week... and buy these to that amount https://www.homedepot.com/p/55-Gal-Blue-Industrial-Plastic-Drum-PTH0933/205845768
then put a sponge filter in the drum and have the water sit there for a week (after sponge filter is cycled) this will help get the ammonia down to where your fish can deal with it... But remember ammonia is SUPER poisonous to fish try to get NO ammonia!
In a properly cycled tank, all you have to do is add twice the dosage of Seachem Prime, and it will bind the ammonia for 24-48 hours until the bacteria in your filters consume it. The best bet is to add the Prime into the container that has the RO water, enough for a double dose, let it circulate for 1 hour than add to your tank.
It looks like about 2 ppm total ammonia. That is high but not out of range for the use of chloramines. It should not be any higher as the limit for chloramines is 4 ppm.
At pH 8.2 with 2 ppm total ammonia (NH3 + NH4) there is 0.1683 toxic ammonia (NH3). Anything over 0.05 ppm is likely too high.
You can use prime as
Rocksor
suggested. 1 capful of prime per 50 gallons will detoxify 0.75 - 1 ppm total ammonia for about 24 hours. It is best to let it sit for 30 minutes to an hour.
https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/FreeAmmonia.php
At pH 8.2 with 2 ppm total ammonia (NH3 + NH4) there is 0.1683 toxic ammonia (NH3). Anything over 0.05 ppm is likely too high.
You can use prime as
Rocksor
suggested. 1 capful of prime per 50 gallons will detoxify 0.75 - 1 ppm total ammonia for about 24 hours. It is best to let it sit for 30 minutes to an hour.https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/FreeAmmonia.php
