fish room drip

Charney

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I am going to have a chloramine filter installed soon. When the plumber comes to do this I want him to run piping into my fish room so I can set up my drip. I will have 6 to 8 tanks on this drip and looking to drip in about 750 gallons a week. What is the best kind of connection to have him run into the room? He wants to run in a 1/2 inch bibb which looks like a garden house connection. I feel like this is not the best setup. I want something I can then connect further pvc to run around the room to make the drip. Also do I need add anything to decrease the pressure? What is the best drip drip emitter?
 

wednesday13

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I run just under 800 gal a day through 1/4" poly ice maker tubing that runs around my fishroom ceiling. I use modified saddle valves off my copper water lines/main to power the lines and 2 main runs/lines of the 1/4" poly tube. (modified as in i remove the regulator it comes with, cap it off and recieve alot more pressure that way) One of my lines supplies 8 tanks... and the other supplies 3. I use push connect fittings for T's, elbows, unions to each tank and i've found the drip emitters that have screw on caps to fail/leak over time. look for an emitter that is completly sealed. I usually buy bags of 50 ct to have extras on hand in case of failure/replacement/add ons.. there all very cheap but ive had em last yrs no prob. I ordered my last emitters from "dripworks.com" and am very pleased with them. I use the 1 & 2gph and add on multiples per tank to make different gph. I also recommend installing a guage to monitor ur water pressure in the lines. Most drip emitters are only rated to 60psi and will pop/fail/leak under higher pressure. I made my own guage using a reg pvc ball valve before a T that holds the pressure guage. Amazing how much ur water mains pressure fluctuates when u actually put a guage on it. If i flush a toilet i see it drop and return to pressure....I keep the pressure in my lines at 40psi... before the guage i ran into alot of problems blowing emitters, after the guage i realised my water main is ridiculous supplying 80-100psi half open lol... You could run 1/4" icemaker tube, 3/8 sink tubing or even 1/2" pvc... Just keep in mind the size of drip emitters are 1/4" so ud have 2 step down to that size to ur tanks from ur "main" drip line. Kinda unnecessary to supply the main line with large pipe unless u plan 2 also use it for heavy water changes into each tank also.. but it certainly wont hurt. Honestly 1/4" fittings are the same price as fittings for 1/2" so no difference there. I enjoy the ease of "plug and play" with my 1/4" poly but thats just personal preference. If i move a tank i can easily add a union where i had a T off to a tank and all is well. Any kind of copper T/connection will be fine to tie into ur main then into pvc, garden hose sounds easy as u could use a brass threaded end to supply ur pvc drip line sealed with teflon. Most important part imo is the regulator... u really dont want anything higer than 40psi for irrigation emitters. I got away without one for 1 yr then started blowing emitters every day outta nowhere... save urself the headache and wet floors lol...

I have a friend who runs 3/8" poly sink lines and reg threaded sink nozzles/handles to control the drip but i think the drip emitters make for a true reading/gph. like u i have 2 many tanks 2 test my drips with a bucket and stop watch lol... LMK if ud like some pics of my hommade regulator or drip lines for an idea. And goodluck! autodrips changed my life!!! lol... if i only had a 10gal...id still drip it. quality of life has improved greatly for me. I kick myself for struggling with water quality/changes for many yrs before hand.
 

wednesday13

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I would like to see some pictures
lol...10/4... lemme get off the couch and show off my ghettoness haha... works very well for my needs tho.
 

rodger

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JHEMCO sells a pressure regulator specifically for this. Pretty cheap.
 

wednesday13

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20160414_232050.jpg
Saddle valves
20160414_232417.jpg
Regulator
20160414_233133.jpg
Emitters
20160414_232725.jpg
Into tank plumbing
20160414_232648.jpg
Ex. of a line running on ceiling and drop downs into tanks

Nothing pretty over here, but its been reliable for 2-3yrs so far and cost around $100 for pieces and parts from a hardware store. Easy to modify tho, which i do alot of. O.P. notice the condesation, def. something id like to improve on/you should take into account. I recommend insulating ur lines of whatever size u do choose. Winters are always bad for condensation of cold drip lines/warm room. Im lazy, and it goes away in summer haha...
 

deeda

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Thanks for the info and the pics, very helpful.

Have you had any of the quick connect fittings leak or the tubing pop out of the fittings?
 

wednesday13

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Um..... That must not be a leak problem... is that condenation???
Yup, 100% condensation.. gets bad as pictured in the winter months... goes away in the summer when the ground water warms up in the lines... Using 800 gal a day doesnt help the cause either. Ill insulate it eventually lol... Id imagine larger lines would just condensate more...but thats y they make that grey foam to go over basement pipes.
 
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wednesday13

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Thanks for the info and the pics, very helpful.

Have you had any of the quick connect fittings leak or the tubing pop out of the fittings?
The only push connect fittings ive had leak are the mini ball valves... makes no sense as there rated at 100psi and my lines are at 40psi... there just cheap... seems they leak brand new out of the bag or not at all. Ive never had a line pop off/out of a push connect fitting... the said mini ball valves leak out of the handle if they do... I also use barbed fittings with mini compression clamps... i have had those pop off before i installed my regulator but have not since. Some of my barbed fittings have no compression clamps and do fine at 40psi aswell. The regulator is very important as most all irragation fittings are rated at 60psi.
 
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