Flooded/soaked carpet

[ragin_cajun]

You could empty the sump and it'd be very light. Then just dry under it, remove carpet under it, whatever. Maybe once the area under the sump is dry, the relatively small area under the stand itself won't matter--and you won't have to empty and move the whole tank.

 

[jaws7777]

You could empty the sump and it'd be very light. Then just dry under it, remove carpet under it, whatever. Maybe once the area under the sump is dry, the relatively small area under the stand itself won't matter--and you won't have to empty and move the whole tank.

Its pretty spaked man. If i can slide it around and remove the carpet then move it back do you see any issues with letting the sump sit on the bare concrete ? I guess if it not 100% level thats an issue. Maybe the carpet/padding was helping cushion any imperfections in the flooring

 

[jaws7777]

I'd try to rent a big circulation fan and dehumidifier if at all possible. I've caused my fair share of floods and none were bad enough to warrant taking down the tank and redoing the carpets.

I have a few going but its probably not gonna dry under the sump. Or where the stand is sitting on the carpet....i mean it was soaked through and through

 

[skjl47]

Once dry would it be ok to sit the sump directly on the concret floor ?

Hello; If the bottom of the sump is glass then no. At the very least I would have some sort of layer between the glass and the floor. You might take a tour of the local big hardware store.
There is a sturdy sheeting that is used on the outside of foundation walls. Before the cement or cinderblock wall is back filled a french drain is put in place and the wall to be below grade is coated with a water proof coating. On top of that coating this sheeting is added to the surface of the wall. It has raised parts and channels to allow any water to move down to the French drain. A section of something like this may allow enough air circulation so it will dry out underneath. There may be other things that will do even better.

About ten or more years ago I had to replace the rotting wooden transom of my old aluminum boat. As I did not have the ability to weld aluminum I did not want to cut the aluminum boat parts. I wound up having to make the replacement wood for the transom in pieces sort of like a 3-D jigsaw puzzle. I used cedar planking but wanted to paint it.
The Sherwin-Williams place had a two part white epoxy paint. I used that stuff. It turns out to have some good characteristics. One it is very waterproof. Another it is very tough. It also bonds to itself and not only waterproofed the wood but glued the pieces together so well the wood part of the transom is still stuck together almost like a single piece.

I tell this tale because I had a lot of the epoxy paint left over. As I like to put a sheet of plywood under my smaller tanks between the tank bottom and the metal stand the epoxy paint has another use. Over the decades the plywood would get wet and damaged sitting under a tank even if painted. I used the two part epoxy paint on one such plywood panel. After soem years under a tank it came out just great. Near asi can tell the wood never soaked up any water.

Good luck

 

[skjl47]

Maybe the carpet/padding was helping cushion any imperfections in the flooring

Hello; This sounds right. All it takes is a bit of hard cement sticking up.

 

[duanes]

I agree about something under the sump, my choice would also be plywood, and a sheet of styrofoam insulation. And just cutting away the carpet, and not replacing it.
And adding float valves, for the next time. All it takes is a phone call, or kid distraction, and there it goes again.

 

[JK47]

Its pretty spaked man. If i can slide it around and remove the carpet then move it back do you see any issues with letting the sump sit on the bare concrete ? I guess if it not 100% level thats an issue. Maybe the carpet/padding was helping cushion any imperfections in the flooring

I wouldn't risk it directly on the concrete at all. The imperfections in the concrete will put undue stress on the seams as the tank walls accommodate for the variations in height. Most sumps are thin walled so be careful. If glass it is significantly less of a concern.

 

[soupa2]

Too much to catch up but I put a thin foam for the sump so it’s off my tile floor in my basement. I have a glass sump (125 gal) so I rather not worry the cold fridgit gound in the basement that I waste power warming up the system. Hope this help.

 

[skjl47]

Too much to catch up but I put a thin foam for the sump so it’s off my tile floor in my basement. I have a glass sump (125 gal) so I rather not worry the cold fridgit gound in the basement that I waste power warming up the system. Hope this help.

Hello; I like this idea. There are rigid foam sheets dense enough to stand on, at least with some thin layer of something on top to spread the load.

 

[pacu mom]

Might be able to use a pallet jack to move tank and stand