****FOUR general care tips you NEED to know for your FH****

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JPlikewoah

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This hybrid section has grew recently and noticed that lots of people are asking for "proper" care info, so I thought this would be helpful to the new FH keepers.

Flowerhorns are no special than other cichlids, however, to bring out their best in them there are couple of things, you have to consider couple of things.

1. BACKGROUND: It CAN NOT be black! This is rule number 1. Even if you have a $1000 fish, if you have black background, they will turn gray,black,head goes down,redness will be washed away and etc...... No, they will not adjust over time. FHs love colorful environment. If you can't stand other color backgrounds other than black, well FHs aren't for you;) Any colorful backgrounds are fine including solid blue and plant backgrounds!(now that's a relief isn't it?:D) Even NO background is better than having black background!

Now, there is an EXCEPTION. Any fully faded flowerhorn will actually like, or at least don't mind this dark black environment.(SRT, Jing Kang, Parrot etc...)

2. GRAVEL: You guessed it!;) Can't be black! Has to be colorful. Now..... most of us(including myself) can't stand bright pink,green, and purple color gravels:D. Just natural gravel is bright enough and will do the trick;) No gravel is fine as well, however I do recommend to have a background if you aren't going to put gravel in the tank. When there's neither of background and gravel, they seem to turn pale and show stress bars(when they are fairly new to your environment)

Again, Faded fish are fine with black background/black gravel set up.

3. TANK MATES: NO tank mates, NO divided tanks with other FHs will be the best. Some FHs will show better colors and head when they see another FH, but this usually is temporary. If you want your FH to be consistent in color and head size, the key is to have them ALONE in their tank. Again, this is if you want to bring out the BEST of your FH, you can have tankmates and other FH divided up.

4. FOOD: A GOOD brand name pellets(or two) as a staple and treats with shrimp,krill, brine shrimp, blood worms, earthworms, mysis shrimp, and etc.... will bring out the best in your FH. There are some people that thinks certain type of food will bring out extraordinary colorings or pop their heads like they banged it with a hammer.:D It's all in the genes of your fish and no matter what you feed, it won't change the genetics of your fish. The key is just to feed them a good source of pellets as a staple, and offer other variety foods as a treat to top off all the nutrients they need that the pellets might have missed. NO FEEDERS! Not worth risking the health of your precious FHs right?!

Well, these are the four main/general info that FH keepers should know. Other more technical stuffs like.......best PH, temperature, and amount of lighting and etc..... is also another thing to think about, however those are something you want to worry about AFTER the four main info above. Those four are a MUST if you want the best for your FH.

-PH: anywhere from 7-8 are fine, I keep mine at 7.4-7.5.
-Temp: to make them more aggressive and help on their head size, 82-86 is recommended.
-Lighting: I just leave the lights on for 6-8 hours a day.(as far as I know, as long as they are getting the light it's fine)

I hope this was a little bit of help for those are new to the FH keeping hobby!:D If you disagree or have experienced differently, please do not hesitate to share your info/experience!:) We are all hear to help out.

JP
 
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Good info :)

The 4 rules are good rules of thumbs and like with everything this does not apply to all situations but these are a great base.

- food: High end foods are enhancers and if there is nothing to enhance it aint going to work. You cant polish a turd, if its not in the genetics of the fish you cant make a miracle happen. If the fish is showing a head and or color enhancing foods will help bring it out to the fullest.

- pH : DO NOT USE ADDITIVES! Its better to have constant ph then a fluxing pH which can stress the fish. Use crushed coral in the filter if you want to increase the pH or add driftwood to the tank to lower the pH.

- cleanliness is next to godliness: keep the tank clean, keep the water clean and do frequent wc.

- temp will increase the movement of the fish increasing the metabolism of your fish so you will need to feed frequently.
 
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danz;2119331; said:
Good info :)

The 4 rules are good rules of thumbs and like with everything this does not apply to all situations but these are a great base.

- food: High end foods are enhancers and if there is nothing to enhance it aint going to work. You cant polish a turd, if its not in the genetics of the fish you cant make a miracle happen. If the fish is showing a head and or color enhancing foods will help bring it out to the fullest.

- pH : DO NOT USE ADDITIVES! Its better to have constant ph then a fluxing pH which can stress the fish. Use crushed coral in the filter if you want to increase the pH or add driftwood to the tank to lower the pH.

- cleanliness is next to godliness: keep the tank clean, keep the water clean and do frequent wc.

- temp will increase the movement of the fish increasing the metabolism of your fish so you will need to feed frequently.

Danz,

Thanks for additional helpful info!:D:headbang2

My main reason for this post was so that they know about the black background and gravel.(BIG ISSUE here on MFK:ROFL:)
 
well I have to admit I am lucky because I have black back and white sand with no color loss :) Btu I also have high filtration as well do weekly WC but yes best beet is to have a multicolor background and neutral substrate and best to have no substrate. I paint the bottoms of my growout tanks and throw in handful of rocks for them to play with.
 
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for raising baby FH's

feed the staple pellets 3-4 times daily in small amounts to give FH a decent thick body shape.

note: if feeding a treat e.g blood worms, krill... (NOT FEEDERS) then just feed them that instead of one of the 3-4 feeds a day, if FH is small and the fish will not eat all of the packet of treat, use it for 2 feeds or how ever many u need too. keep treat refrigerated to keep fresh inbetween feeds.
 
another one that i have found with my FH..

keep the room light and have lights on tank on for atleast 6 hours a day, IMO this enhanced his colours.
 
OK now i'm not sure if I violated rule #1 and #2. I have a JK and I have both black sand, and a black back ground. He is only 4 or 5 inches though? Explain this further...

"Now, there is an EXCEPTION. Any fully faded flowerhorn will actually like, or at least don't mind this dark black environment.(SRT, Jing Kang, Parrot etc...)"

"Any fully faded fh", meaning done fading(grown up) or just one of the above mentioned fish?

Mine still gets a black spot here and there that turns to red so I assume he is not done fading. I have had him in his own 120g for a few weeks now with no changes for the worse. Granted some days he is brighter than others but I figured it was stability like a Datnoid. Maybe its the black?
 
beantickler;2121539; said:
OK now i'm not sure if I violated rule #1 and #2. I have a JK and I have both black sand, and a black back ground. He is only 4 or 5 inches though? Explain this further...

"Now, there is an EXCEPTION. Any fully faded flowerhorn will actually like, or at least don't mind this dark black environment.(SRT, Jing Kang, Parrot etc...)"

"Any fully faded fh", meaning done fading(grown up) or just one of the above mentioned fish?

Mine still gets a black spot here and there that turns to red so I assume he is not done fading. I have had him in his own 120g for a few weeks now with no changes for the worse. Granted some days he is brighter than others but I figured it was stability like a Datnoid. Maybe its the black?

Hey bro,

You are fine.;) I meant fully faded as in when your fish is mostly faded(over let's say 80%) Couple of spots not faded is typical for faded fish and they come and go as they grow. I think it depends on their moods. When they fully reach the adult size, some might be gone, some not.

JP
 
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