So I've been working on and off for the last several days on this project and I've made some real progress with the RO/DI auto top off system.
I received and installed the Zero-Waste unit. I modified the way the lines are routed so that the waste line can be redirected around the flow restrictor to allow the RO membrane to be flushed. I also split the line running between the RO membrane and the DI filter so that I could take drinkable water when I want.
The RO+DI product line shuts off with a Kent float valve. It works well. I plan to fit a bulkhead and drain line in the sump that allows water to exit the system while the RO/DI unit continually produces water for the tank. The float valve will mount higher up in case the drain line becomes clogged.
I tested the water at three points after doing some fine tuning to get air out of the lines. The results: TAP 66 ppm; RO 7 ppm; RO+DI 0 ppm.
I plan to include two inline TDS meters for convenience. They will mount on the back wall.
I'm still thinking about how I might turn the entire system on/off using a timer-- perhaps an electronic thermostat connected to secondary solenoid placed in line after the zero waste pump solenoid? Anyone have ideas?
I hope you enjoy the photos of the progress. Please offer comments and suggestions-- this is how I got to where I am in the first place.
The zero waste kit comes in a box. Fancy.
This is as complicated as it looks for a beginner.
Just think it through and it works out to be pretty simple.
Meanwhile, my son is enjoying his books and toys... hahaa
I cut a birchwood panel to fit above the sink and laid out all the components on the panel. I then marked where the screws and bolts would be located, pre-drilled, countersunk as necessary, and gathered hardware.
flush valve-- John Guest fitting
Hard to see-- but it's a 1/4" bulkhead that allows the flush line to enter the side of the sink.
Here's the equipment attached to the panel and running.
The pump isn't noisy at all in my opinion. I am considering building a door to hide all of this but for now it's better left fully accessible.
This configuration kept evolving as the project went along.
I don't know who Forstner was, but he must have been a genius.
Simple and elegant solution when putting holes in your walls. I've used these rings (from the tops of computer desks) to feed wiring through sheetrock before.
Convenient panel of outlets protected from surges and grounded through of the GFCIs. I'll probably have timers for the lights located here.
Neatness counts in my world.
He loves helping. His latest idea, btw: Daddy, why don't we put one of those big blue piranha in the other tank? He's referring to a 12" blue rhom with the red eyes he saw at AE a few months ago. Now he's really starting to think. hmmmm.
I had to keep adjusting this setup as I went along. I rotated, added, cut, tightened, exchanged pieces etc. until it was right. DIY always has a component of hit or miss and "oh damn, I can't believe I did that backwards" moments.
The waste line reinstalled. The one inch valve is connected to a barb fitting that allows a flexible hose to go through the wall and into the sump. The sump drain is 16" off the floor.
Success!
