Gruntking;5146541; said:
I love matrix and use it in all my filters now. It definately helps keep nitrates lower for sure.
FX5 and Sump
- Thread starter loud1
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I love matrix and use it in all my filters now. It definately helps keep nitrates lower for sure.
Gruntking;5146541; said:
I don't think it's the Matrix as much as the thorough gravel vac. I have heard mixed reports about the Seachem DeNitrate. But have never used it.
Also, FWIW I may be doing a tad over 30% because I drain 1/3 of the main tank and the 38 drops down to below half before I shut off the pump and filter. So it may be more like 40-50% total volume between the 2 tanks. But only a 1/3 of the main tank. That's where I get the 30%
Mike
Mavrick813;5146538; said:
Ahhh... The plants might exlain it for sure. I plan on setting up my new 300 with some pothos on either side of the top just to see if I get any nitrate reduction. I use the same test kit as well..
Sorry. Back on topic
Jc1119;5146556; said:
Definitely, I haven't taken pics of the plants yet because I don't like the way it looks. I have to modify the lid so the Pothos actually feed through holes in the lid and climb the wall. Right now their all stuffed under the lid and I have a couple bulbs removed so they don't burn on the bulbs. Just been busy and haven't had time to work on it. The Danios do seem to enjoy nibbling at the root systems of the plants and schooling through them.
Mike
Even with plants I find it hard to believe 0-5 nitrate with that stock.
1-gravel vacuuming just removes the debris, which will over time raise the nitrate, but this usually means that over 6 months your tank will be 50 instead of 20 (for example).
2-Most nitrate production comes from the conversion of ammonia to nitrite and then nitrate, from the constant production of ammonia by livestock (which this tank has a lot of). Fish constantly give off ammonia through their gills and urine. This is the ammonia that constantly feeds the nitrifying bacteria and increases nitrate. Even if you kept a tank truly 100% free of debris on a daily basis this production of ammonia directly into the water column will keep nitrate over 0-5.
3-Plants do remove nitrate but it is hard to believe that even a lot of plants could keep up with the production of such a tank.
4-Most tap water has nitrate over 5, hard to belive it is 0 and the tank stays at 0-5.
5-Even if the water change schedule is 50% and the tap water is somehow 0 nitrate, a 50% water change starting with 5ppm nitrate would not bring the nitrate down to 0, 2.5ppm at best.
I am not saying you are crazy, wrong, or lying, I am just saying it is hard to believe. I do believe that a well maintained tank (vacuumed weekly, filters kept very clean, etc.) with plants and matrix would be the best way to have very low nitrate, but I still find it hard to believe it would be down at 0-5.
Tank looks great by the way.
1-gravel vacuuming just removes the debris, which will over time raise the nitrate, but this usually means that over 6 months your tank will be 50 instead of 20 (for example).
2-Most nitrate production comes from the conversion of ammonia to nitrite and then nitrate, from the constant production of ammonia by livestock (which this tank has a lot of). Fish constantly give off ammonia through their gills and urine. This is the ammonia that constantly feeds the nitrifying bacteria and increases nitrate. Even if you kept a tank truly 100% free of debris on a daily basis this production of ammonia directly into the water column will keep nitrate over 0-5.
3-Plants do remove nitrate but it is hard to believe that even a lot of plants could keep up with the production of such a tank.
4-Most tap water has nitrate over 5, hard to belive it is 0 and the tank stays at 0-5.
5-Even if the water change schedule is 50% and the tap water is somehow 0 nitrate, a 50% water change starting with 5ppm nitrate would not bring the nitrate down to 0, 2.5ppm at best.
I am not saying you are crazy, wrong, or lying, I am just saying it is hard to believe. I do believe that a well maintained tank (vacuumed weekly, filters kept very clean, etc.) with plants and matrix would be the best way to have very low nitrate, but I still find it hard to believe it would be down at 0-5.
Tank looks great by the way.
I strictly use Eheim media in all my canisters. With the sump I would probably use bioballs for the bio.
Bioballs are a good way to trap debris=increase in nitrate.
Seachem Matrix has more bioavailable surface area than Eheim's or Fluval's biomedias and can allow for denitrification, something neither of the other two can do.
Seachem Matrix has more bioavailable surface area than Eheim's or Fluval's biomedias and can allow for denitrification, something neither of the other two can do.
reptileguy2727;5146696; said:
True. Bioballs are not very efficient when submerged. They are actually designed to be exposed to air with a very thin layer of water on them. Plus they dont have the surface area of matrix, substrat pro or any decent ceramic media
reptileguy2727;5146664; said:
Thanks for the Compliment, Just wish I would have taken the time to spray the DIY Overflow to match the back. But otherwise I'm happy with it.
I suppose I can take a pic of the test vial later on this afternoon when i'm done and post them. Maybe i'm reading it wrong. (Doubt it) But ya never know. And I'm no expert and everything your saying makes perfect sense. All I can go by is the test. Light Highlighter Yellow = 0-5? Pictures to come.
Mike.
The only thing is that the API nitrate kit is notoriously finicky and you need to read and follow the instructions letter by letter. I don't remember it step by step (although I probably should) but if I remember right, amoung other steps, you need to shake bottle 2 for 30 seconds, add the drops, and then shake the vial for a full minute. Reread the instructions and try it again, also on your tap, and let us know.
