I think this is wrong. The silicone beads should be on the base, because you will be placing the front and back panels on the base, their edges sitting on the bead. That goes for the side panels too. All my large custom tanks are built this way.zach c.;954920;954920 said:or like this
glass 78x24x18 Building next week!! heres a replica
- Thread starter zach c.
- Start date
sure if there is too much you can wipe it off, better then having it leak, its only going to take 1 tube, whats the diff if it takes 3/4 of it or all of it?
and ok i mayhave overdone it with the braceing but what the hell... you would be ok with just two and not three, but why not add a bit of extra support... but seriosly you will be more then of with just two... i just drew three cus its easyer to split the tank into 1/4 then it is 1/3 quickly for a rough idea.
and ok i mayhave overdone it with the braceing but what the hell... you would be ok with just two and not three, but why not add a bit of extra support... but seriosly you will be more then of with just two... i just drew three cus its easyer to split the tank into 1/4 then it is 1/3 quickly for a rough idea.
If you bead all joining parts, it would give more strength and keepo it water tight better. I think anyway.
Zach,
I build tanks quite often and method 2 to glue as already recommended is the way to go. With regard to silicon on the inside, you can either run your finger down the seam when the silicon is wet (to get a smooth looking seal) or just leave it be. You will be able to see any air bubbles in the glue line so the inside is purely cosmetic anyway. If you do see air bubbles in the glue line, just press extra silicon in firmly to push them out.
With regard to your cross braces I use a whiteboard marker and the corner plastic piece as a ruler to run a parrallel line down the outside of my front and back side panels. Using the drawn line as a guide, glue your side rails on (edgeways) when your side panels are flat. Leave at least 6 hours -longer is better - before constructing your tank. So when you make your tank, the cross braces will simply sit ON the side rails. The side rails are already glued in place firmly remember. I strongly recommend you also fill any spaces between rails and braces since algae and dirt will collect between the glass which is hard to remove.
You dont need clamps but I do use some masking tape to sides together. When pushing the sides on, dont push too hard as you will squeeze too much silicon out and it will create air bubbles when you let go. A nice gentle push is all you need. Lay a bead approx same thickness as your glass and cut the silicon nozzle 45 degrees so you can control thickness of bead (by rotating tube). I usually clean up with methelated spirits before glue dries but it is easy to scrape off when dry too. Make sure all glue surfaces are clean and dry by wiping down with meth spirits.
Good luck, remember to have fun!
I build tanks quite often and method 2 to glue as already recommended is the way to go. With regard to silicon on the inside, you can either run your finger down the seam when the silicon is wet (to get a smooth looking seal) or just leave it be. You will be able to see any air bubbles in the glue line so the inside is purely cosmetic anyway. If you do see air bubbles in the glue line, just press extra silicon in firmly to push them out.
With regard to your cross braces I use a whiteboard marker and the corner plastic piece as a ruler to run a parrallel line down the outside of my front and back side panels. Using the drawn line as a guide, glue your side rails on (edgeways) when your side panels are flat. Leave at least 6 hours -longer is better - before constructing your tank. So when you make your tank, the cross braces will simply sit ON the side rails. The side rails are already glued in place firmly remember. I strongly recommend you also fill any spaces between rails and braces since algae and dirt will collect between the glass which is hard to remove.
You dont need clamps but I do use some masking tape to sides together. When pushing the sides on, dont push too hard as you will squeeze too much silicon out and it will create air bubbles when you let go. A nice gentle push is all you need. Lay a bead approx same thickness as your glass and cut the silicon nozzle 45 degrees so you can control thickness of bead (by rotating tube). I usually clean up with methelated spirits before glue dries but it is easy to scrape off when dry too. Make sure all glue surfaces are clean and dry by wiping down with meth spirits.
Good luck, remember to have fun!
