Good place to buy Ricordeas

[nonstophoops]

Building your own allows you to select what wire gauge to use, which will help a lot.

For example, over a four foot length, I can use eight gauge wire to supply a 600 watt RMS audio amp. But, if the length is eight feet, I need to use 4 gauge wire.

Length and current draw are what determine the gauge wire you need to use to supply a particular device.

So here is a chart, which may not be all inclusive or entirely accurate... http://electrical.about.com/od/wiringcircuitry/a/electwiresizes.htm

Another good general info page:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...ce-_-Electrical-_-Subcat-_-Wires_Cable-_-Hero


They say that extension cords are rated for 13 amps on the about.com site, which I think is a load of crap. I think 12 gauge is an appropriate choice. Some wire you can buy will not always have the choice of a ground wire, I think spending the extra coins would be a wise choice if you build your own.

But you may be able to find an extension cord built with 12 gauge wire as well, I havent shopped for an extension cord in long time. It will be beefier, and more expensive then the standard 16 gauge extension cord. Also, try to only buy the length you need, the extra length isn't going to necessarily be good here.

And while you could build the extension cord into the ballast box, I wouldnt do it. I dont know if it is a good or a bad idea, which is why I am saying I wouldnt... wish I could be more help there.

Are you running magnetic or electronic ballast?

Ok, so I need to get a new better extension cord. 12 gauge looks like what I need. The one I am looking at is rated for 125 volts, 15 amps, and 1875 watts.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100661446/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Should I be getting 10 gauge just to be safe and know it will work?? I don't know if this is possible, it looks like the plug is different altogether.

I then need to fix the plug end of the cord coming from the fixture itself. Simplest way to do that and end up with a safe new cord???

I am pretty sure I have magnetic ballasts. HQI is magnetic correct? (I am in so far over my head right now that I am kinda scared that I seem like I understand and think I can do this. lol).

 

[FLESHY]

Power=(Current)*(Voltage)
(Power/Voltage)=Current
((3*250W)/115V)=6.52A

Nerd.

 

[Heathd]

Ok, so I need to get a new better extension cord. 12 gauge looks like what I need. The one I am looking at is rated for 125 volts, 15 amps, and 1875 watts.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Should I be getting 10 gauge just to be safe and know it will work?? I don't know if this is possible, it looks like the plug is different altogether.

I then need to fix the plug end of the cord coming from the fixture itself. Simplest way to do that and end up with a safe new cord???

I am pretty sure I have magnetic ballasts. HQI is magnetic correct? (I am in so far over my head right now that I am kinda scared that I seem like I understand and think I can do this. lol).

I was just curious what ballast you had. Some are magnetic, some are electronic. Electronic are more efficient, but for this discussion, it doesn't matter.

10 gauge is typically used in 220v applications, so you wont likely find one that you can use. I think 12 gauge should be enough.

As far as repairing the ballast plug, they sell replacement plugs at hardware stores. Check the ratings on them and find an appropriate one. It SHOULD be relatively simple, where all you need to do is disconnect the old one and hook up the new one in the same manner. I can give you a better idea what you would need for that if you can snag a photo for me.

 

[nonstophoops]

Here are some pictures of both the problem area on the plug and the connection side to the fixture.

Am I replacing the entire cord that attaches to the fixture or just cutting the wire and attaching a new plug??

 

[Heathd]

So it looks like you can just pick up a replacement cord at a local hardware store. Can you open the box and get me a photo of where the cord ties in?

BTW, I see where it says 900 watts on the ballast box, so it looks like the unit as a whole will pull 8.2 amps

 

[nonstophoops]

So it looks like you can just pick up a replacement cord at a local hardware store. Can you open the box and get me a photo of where the cord ties in?

BTW, I see where it says 900 watts on the ballast box, so it looks like the unit as a whole will pull 8.2 amps

I will open it up and see what I can do. I will get it open in a few minutes here.

 

[nonstophoops]

I am afraid it won't be too simple by the looks of it. I opened up the end of the fixture and these are the shots I was able to take. Doesn't look like a simple untie/unclip and put on the new cord to me.

 

[Heathd]

WOW... lol, i didnt think it would be that easy. That looks like it has screw set terminals, which means you wouldnt have to do any splicing or soldering. Just back the screw off, and tie in the new plug. That white zip tie on the inside should be removed, which will allow you to pull damaged cord out freely from the rubber jacket, after you undo the wires. The wire on the new cord will just need to be connected to the same places, and it looks like they are using standard wiring colors which will make it nice an easy.

The other thing it could be is a "spring set" type of terminal, which just requires you to push down inside the recessed circular area, and then the wire releases. The green and yellow wire is ground to the chassis, and the terminal for that appears to be further in the back. The wire from the plug running to that terminal should be green.

That looks like a nicely made unit. Cheap units are typically filled to the brim with potting so you cant see the components, and it makes it impossible to repair them.

I think you might have lucked out on this.

 

[nonstophoops]

WOW... lol, i didnt think it would be that easy. That looks like it has screw set terminals, which means you wouldnt have to do any splicing or soldering. Just back the screw off, and tie in the new plug.

That sounds like it isn't too hard. The main thing would be accessing that area. I think I would have to unscrew a lot of stuff to get there. I will look some more.

 

[nonstophoops]

I take back what I said. I am able to get to the screws to unhook the cord, but can not get the screws undone. I have been working at it for a while and only one of the three moved at all. This is what I am working with and looking at.