Heaters for 240gallon

[cjdesmit]

Did a little more digging. You may need to calibrate the unit itself.

From the InkBird manual...

"5.3 Temperature Calibration (CA) When there is deviation between measured temperature and actual temperature, use temperature calibration function to align the measured temperature and actual temperature. The corrected temperature is equal to temperature before calibration plus corrected value (corrected value could be positive value, 0 or negative value)."

 

[Steve_C]

So, I have been dealing with some colder than usual temps here in Alabama. My house hangs around 68, but sometimes during the evening we will let it drop to 64 downstairs where my tank is, this has resulted in my heaters constantly running and I am scared to see my power bill next month.

Right now, the 240 gallon acrylic tank is running (2) Aqueon Pro 250w heaters, I love these heaters but they are clearly not able to keep up with the house temp dropping so low during the evenings. They are running with an InkBird controller set @ 80 degrees. Just checked and the temperature in the tank has fallen to 77.8.

My question, does anybody run the Finnex heaters with a non-finnex brand controller? I was looking at possibly upgrading to (2) 500W finnex run through my inkbird, but wanted to see what everyone's thoughts were.

Two 500w heater is a bit more than needed IMO. I have the exact same size tank (240g Acrylic) and its in my basement here in Michigan. This year it's been colder than ever and my basement temps drop down into the low 60's quite often. I run a pair of 300w Jager heaters in mine and it stays at a steady 81f all the time.

 

[DN328]

I have the heat-only model as well.
I ordered (2) 500W finnex heaters to replace the Aqueon Pros, should be here Tuesday, I am just tired of the heaters running constantly.
I have a large amount of "atmospheric interaction" with this tank that I didn't with my last large tank. My previous tank was a 210 w/ 55 gallon sump and it was only heated with the (2) Aqueon Pros and I loved them. During an ICH outbreak I had no issue whatsoever keeping the tank at 86 in the winter, it was in a poorly insulated room at my previous house. Just wondering if my new tank just doesn't hold heat as well because of that. It is an exposed trickle intank sump, so it has quite a bit of exposure.

I will say, I can't give an honest review of the InkBird just yet. I read the instructions, programmed my set temp to 80.0, kicked my heaters to 82/84 and have left it to run. I wake up to a tank that is 772/77.5 degrees according to the InkBird with heaters that had been running all night trying to keep it at 80.0. Then other times I will come in, InkBird says the tank is 78.5 but the heaters will not be running. I am hoping the Finnex Heaters will solve this for me and i won't have to worry about it, if I see the same fluctuation, I will reconfig the InkBird and if it doesn't get better, send it back.

Are you using a sump? If so, where you have your controller temp probe and/or turnover rate may effect your readings. I set my Ranco at 80F and when the probe reads 80F, the digital thermometer in the sump reads 79.2 and the digital thermometer in the internal overflow box is lower at 78.8F. The key is the ranges are fairly consistent between the 3 temp readings. Not suggesting your situation, something to consider and not all faulty equipment.

 

[Fish Tank Travis]

As for the InkBird instructions, I found them to be very easy to read. They may have improved since some of you bought the unit.

The person that posted about having the InkBird set at 80 and the heaters set at 82/84, but the InkBird was only reading about 77, that is not possible the way the InkBird operates. The only way that could happen is if the heaters themselves were turning off. Even though they are set at 82/84, their setting might be off. If you turn them up then I bet you will see the tank temp come up to the InkBird setting. Also, I think it’s worth mentioning that the InkBird comes preset with a 3 degree temp differential. This means that if the temp is set at 80, the tank will cool down to 77 before the InkBird turns the heaters back on. You have to change this to 1 degree for the best use in an aquarium.

I run the InkBird 308 model with heating and cooling. I only use the heating part though.

As far as the probes go, I’ve only had one of three go bad in about a year and it didn’t fail terribly, it just went out slowly. It was only $9.99 for a new one and it replaces in seconds. If you want to wrap it or seal it somehow, then I definitely think that will help.

I still strongly recommend the InkBird as a heater controller.

 

[BMac91]

Two 500w heater is a bit more than needed IMO. I have the exact same size tank (240g Acrylic) and its in my basement here in Michigan. This year it's been colder than ever and my basement temps drop down into the low 60's quite often. I run a pair of 300w Jager heaters in mine and it stays at a steady 81f all the time.

I thought about 300W heaters, but with the amount the heaters are already running to keep the tank close to 80, I didn't anticipate 100W extra to be enough to keep it consistent. In a month or so, I will be running the tank at 81-82 and I honestly don't think 300W would allow me to do that.

Are you using a sump? If so, where you have your controller temp probe and/or turnover rate may effect your readings. I set my Ranco at 80F and when the probe reads 80F, the digital thermometer in the sump reads 79.2 and the digital thermometer in the internal overflow box is lower at 78.8F. The key is the ranges are fairly consistent between the 3 temp readings. Not suggesting your situation, something to consider and not all faulty equipment.

I am running a Uniquarum, so it is an internal back of tank sump with the heaters in the heater compartments on each side of the tank, the probe is in the display part of the tank. I have tested with the probe in different areas both in the tank and the filtration compartment and it is consistent each time within .2 degrees, so I know the probe location isn't what is throwing things off. I am not suggesting all faulty equipment, just that I didn't initially think the 250Ws were able to keep up with the temp based on the location of the tank and temperature in that portion of the house, etc. I am still figuring out the InkBird and do not anticipate that is faulty whatsoever.

As for the InkBird instructions, I found them to be very easy to read. They may have improved since some of you bought the unit.

The person that posted about having the InkBird set at 80 and the heaters set at 82/84, but the InkBird was only reading about 77, that is not possible the way the InkBird operates. The only way that could happen is if the heaters themselves were turning off. Even though they are set at 82/84, their setting might be off. If you turn them up then I bet you will see the tank temp come up to the InkBird setting. Also, I think it’s worth mentioning that the InkBird comes preset with a 3 degree temp differential. This means that if the temp is set at 80, the tank will cool down to 77 before the InkBird turns the heaters back on. You have to change this to 1 degree for the best use in an aquarium.

I run the InkBird 308 model with heating and cooling. I only use the heating part though.

As far as the probes go, I’ve only had one of three go bad in about a year and it didn’t fail terribly, it just went out slowly. It was only $9.99 for a new one and it replaces in seconds. If you want to wrap it or seal it somehow, then I definitely think that will help.

I still strongly recommend the InkBird as a heater controller.

This may actually still be the problem, I programmed the differential during the programming phrase and I had set it to 1 but the fact that its default was 3 and it is dropping 3 leads me to lean towards you being spot on. I am going to reset, reprogram, and see if things clean up or not.

I know the heaters aren't turning off, I have a power monitor running on the outlet and can follow the trend and see they have been pulling wattage the entire time, That was another intial thought when I first started using the controller. I started with them at 80 then kicked them up to between 82 and 84.

As previously stated, I haven't used the controller long enough to have any legitimate opinions, so to any potential buyers, don't let this be something that weighs in on your decision.

 

[cjdesmit]

Good info from everyone. Keep us updated if/when you get everything sorted.

 

[BMac91]

So, this evening it is 28 degrees out, tank was at 78.5 around 8:00pm, with the power light lit on the InkBird and both heaters power lights lit. Pulled both heaters out of the water, both warm to the touch.

Fast forward to now, 10:15pm, InkBird now reads 77.8, indicator is lit, so it is sending power, both heaters still on and running. So, in 2:15hrs the temp dropped .7 degrees even though the heaters have been running the whole time. I am still leaning on it being the heaters just not able to keep up.

To add to this, I have yet to see 80.0/80.0 on the controller where the probe has recorded that temperature was finally reached its goal. It is always under the 80.0.

 

[Steve_C]

I thought about 300W heaters, but with the amount the heaters are already running to keep the tank close to 80, I didn't anticipate 100W extra to be enough to keep it consistent. In a month or so, I will be running the tank at 81-82 and I honestly don't think 300W would allow me to do that.

Something just seems weird as to why you're having issues getting the heat to 80. I just went down and snapped this pic 2 mins ago of my 240g acrylic in my basement. It's 12f outside here in Michigan right now, top temp 60f is the air temp in the basement, bottom temp 83f is the water temp in the tank. If anything it's about .5 over where I usually like it. And my heaters are only flicking on and off they aren't even running that hard.

What do you have for lids on your tank? Maybe that is a difference? Mine is fully sealed with no openings outside of maybe a 1/2" feeding hole.

 

[BMac91]

Something just seems weird as to why you're having issues getting the heat to 80. I just went down and snapped this pic 2 mins ago of my 240g acrylic in my basement. It's 12f outside here in Michigan right now, top temp 60f is the air temp in the basement, bottom temp 83f is the water temp in the tank. If anything it's about .5 over where I usually like it. And my heaters are only flicking on and off they aren't even running that hard.

What do you have for lids on your tank? Maybe that is a difference? Mine is fully sealed with no openings outside of maybe a 1/2" feeding hole.

1/4" acrylic lids for the main 3 openings, back couple inches of the tank are open as they are odd sizes and didn't come with lids. I considered this in a previous post on this thread about how the back filtration is laid out. I have a set of extra lids for the main openings, I thought about cutting them into make shift lids for the back, but really didn't think a few inches of openness would be enough to drop that much temp in that amount of water. We have more cold weather and potential snow over the next few days, I may saran wrap the back areas and see if anything changes temp wise.

 

[Viper99ACR]

I have a large sump so I’m going to use a heating coil using pex piping which is fed through my gas water heater. I’ll be able to ditch my heaters completely. Control is managed by Apex.