Hello; pH is near neutral. You have some nitrates. Dose some ammonia tomorrow and keep watching until the ammonia and nitrites are at or near zero.Ammonia .50
Nitrite 2.0
Nitrate 5.0
The high PH tested at the lowest it shows 7.4.
Hello; pH is near neutral. You have some nitrates. Dose some ammonia tomorrow and keep watching until the ammonia and nitrites are at or near zero.Ammonia .50
Nitrite 2.0
Nitrate 5.0
The high PH tested at the lowest it shows 7.4.
Hello; pH is near neutral. You have some nitrates. Dose some ammonia tomorrow and keep watching until the ammonia and nitrites are at or near zero.
One of the reasons to do water changes (even when simply cycling a tank), is to replace buffering capacity (alkalinity) of the water.
Your pH probably crashed, because the by-products of metabolism (bacteria are growing and metabolizing the ammonia), ate up a lot of alkalinity over the week (or however long the tank has now been set up).
Without water changes, the pH swings are large enough hinder equilibrium.
If pH drops radically, do a water change, remove enough old water, and replace it with new tap water enough to bring it to equilibrium (somewhere near the normal tap water), and add new ammonia.
While we are on the subject, if your tap water pH is normally around 8 or higher, it is time to consider what fish are right for your tank, if you want a healthy tank.
With that pH, Amazonian South American, and some Asian species may not be right (long term).
Fish from the Rift lakes of Africa, or Central America, or South American species from "west" of the Andes would be better choices.
you can probably buy DI water at your local grocery store, and it is the best rinse for test tubes, because it has the capacity to get rid of left over residual, your high pH , harder water might not be able to do. And those residuals can easily skew test results. You are dealing in parts per million, with tiny samples, a tiny left over residual can often give very different results than reality.
Sajica's sound perfect for your water, as would live bearer dithers. The pH in your water rises as CO2 trapped in the pressurized pipes, dissipates.
Scrubbing is not the trick, it's using a water that automatically strips the residual from the tube. DI does this, because it is simply H2O and nothing else, so it is similar to a vacuum, it wants stuff (in the parlance of our time).
When I worked as a water chemist after each test, we were required to rinse the tube 3 times with DI.
This meant 3 times between a nitrate test, 3 times after a pH test, 3 times after chlorine.... etc etc etc. In this way we were assured of accurate results.
Ok so it’s safe to leave it go overnight? I know too long at 0 ammonia and the BB will starve. And if it’s 0 in the morning, go out and get some fish?!? Sorry for all the questions, I’m just shocked I saved the cycle after what I thought happened yesterday.This means your bacterial colony is almost there.
Watch and see if ammonia and nitrite hit zero, then its ready, then stop adding ammonia, and its ready for fish.
Hello; This from Duanes.This means your bacterial colony is almost there.
Watch and see if ammonia and nitrite hit zero, then its ready, then stop adding ammonia, and its ready for fish.