Help with cycle

[duanes]

If both nitrite and ammonia are zero and you are seeing some nitrate, I think it's safe to get some fish (a few, not many, and something you are prepared to see sacrificed), not get something you are ill prepared to see die.
I'd get 3 of something small, and watch them for at least 3 weeks before adding more.
Because I have no idea what your fish goals are, as an example
Lets say you want to end up with a shoal of Geophagus crassiblabrus as a main focus of the tank.
I'd start with a trio or quartet of small Panamanian live bearers, like mollies or merry widows. If they make it those first few weeks, and show no signs of disease, then the small Geo's could be added.
By that time the live-bearers are established, and may have even dropped a few fry.
These dither fish will serve to immediately make the cichlids comfortable in their new surroundings, lowering stress (a major disease factor in aquarium fish).
If "soft water" fish from the Amazon are more to your liking, the same could be done, first using a few endemic South American tetras, watching them, and the soft water type cichlids or other Amazonian species added 3 weeks or a month later.
To me a 75 gallon should hold nothing larger at full adult size, than 7.5" fish.
I am actually in much the same situation as you, setting up a new tank from scratch, uncycled at the moment.
It is a 180 gallon, and my end goal focus fish will be 2 or 3 small groups of cichlids that get no larger than around 10" as adults.
A bottom hugging group or 2 like Geophagis, or Andinoacara coeruleopunctatus, and a mid water group like Isthmoheros tuyrensus, when the tank is ready for them.
Its almost half full of water as of yesterday, and I just added some plants, I plan to get more plants Friday, and maybe a few small live bearers then or a week later, waiting 6 or more weeks or 2 months before adding any of the cichlids.
I am prepared to watch the live bearers succumb if conditions aren't perfect.

 

[Dwl0222]

Hello; This from Duanes.

Let me add a couple of things. First the bb will eventually die off without their nutrients but my take is it takes a little time. My best guess is more than a day or two. That may be one blessing from their slow reproductive rate. I also seem to recall reading (perhaps in one of the links I posted) that they can be sort of dormant briefly. ( check on this as I accidently looked in a mirror a moment ago and am still a bit unsteady)

Yes you can keep just adding a dose of ammonia for days to come even when the tank is cycled. That will keep the bb thriving until you have an opportunity to pick out some fish.
You can also throw in something that will rot and this is supposed to release some ammonia. I have read that some use raw shrimp while some use fish food. but if you have liquid ammonia that is likely less messy.
I like to toss in some snails in my new tank setups. They will make some ammonia and will feed on any organics. I figure it is better to have stuff pass thru a digestive system rather than to just decay.

A question. After following your thread, how did you survive the birth of children?

I did end up dosing just a 1/4 dose of ammonium, just to make sure I didn’t starve the BB. The 1/4 dose shouldn’t last too long anyway, assuming I am close to a completed cycle. I will be checking shortly and if my ammonia and nitrate are at 0, I’ll be getting some fish ASAP.

 

[Dwl0222]

If both nitrite and ammonia are zero and you are seeing some nitrate, I think it's safe to get some fish (a few, not many, and something you are prepared to see sacrificed), not get something you are ill prepared to see die.
I'd get 3 of something small, and watch them for at least 3 weeks before adding more.
Because I have no idea what your fish goals are, as an example
Lets say you want to end up with a shoal of Geophagus crassiblabrus as a main focus of the tank.
I'd start with a trio or quartet of small Panamanian live bearers, like mollies or merry widows. If they make it those first few weeks, and show no signs of disease, then the small Geo's could be added.
By that time the live-bearers are established, and may have even dropped a few fry.
These dither fish will serve to immediately make the cichlids comfortable in their new surroundings, lowering stress (a major disease factor in aquarium fish).
If "soft water" fish from the Amazon are more to your liking, the same could be done, first using a few endemic South American tetras, watching them, and the soft water type cichlids or other Amazonian species added 3 weeks or a month later.
To me a 75 gallon should hold nothing larger at full adult size, than 7.5" fish.
I am actually in much the same situation as you, setting up a new tank from scratch, uncycled at the moment.
It is a 180 gallon, and my end goal focus fish will be 2 or 3 small groups of cichlids that get no larger than around 10" as adults.
A bottom hugging group or 2 like Geophagis, or Andinoacara coeruleopunctatus, and a mid water group like Isthmoheros tuyrensus, when the tank is ready for them.
Its almost half full of water as of yesterday, and I just added some plants, I plan to get more plants Friday, and maybe a few small live bearers then or a week later, waiting 6 or more weeks or 2 months before adding any of the cichlids.
I am prepared to watch the live bearers succumb if conditions aren't perfect.
View attachment 1353209

My goal is to start with 5-6 juvenile sajica and end up with a pair, and rehome the rest, and to have a fairly large group of Livebearers like Xiphophorus helleri or mayae maybe. Though I’m not really sure what number I should aim for there. So i guess it would be best to add 3-4 of the swordtails first and see how they do. I think I’m going to skip a bottom feeder just because the ones I’m used to are very inactive and they seem to poop non stop haha. I also don’t want to see it get picked on by the sajica pair. I would be open to it if you’re aware of any good options youvthink id like! Good luck with your tank! Can’t wait until I can upgrade, although right now I think a 125 is my maximum. I’ll get there eventually though...

 

[skjl47]

Hello; I rarely suggest fish as my taste is not universal. I do like Duanes suggestion to match the type fish to the source water. Makes things a bit easier.
Good luck.

 

[duanes]

My goal is to start with 5-6 juvenile sajica and end up with a pair, and rehome the rest, and to have a fairly large group of Livebearers like Xiphophorus helleri or mayae maybe. ...

Yes I now remember the sajica, if it was me, I'd start with a small group of 3 or 4 swordtails, let them acclimate for about a month, then add young sajica.

 

[Dwl0222]

Yes I now remember the sajica, if it was me, I'd start with a small group of 3 or 4 swordtails, let them acclimate for about a month, then add young sajica.

Sounds good. Thanks for all the help! Still showing some nitrites but the ammonia continues to drop after dosing...so hopefully I’m close to seeing those nitrites come down too

 

[Dwl0222]

Just another update, ammonia is dropping fairly quickly after dosing. Last night I dosed 3/4 tsp ammonium and 12 hours later I’m reading 0-.25 ammonia. The nitrites are still there, tough to discern the color but I think it’s 1-2ppm. So just going to keep dosing ammonium until I see the nitrites come down with the ammonia. Also going to do another large water change in a day or two to avoid a set back like a few days ago. Do I only dose ammonium once a day? I check levels every 12 hours and dose as needed at both checks...should I only be dosing one time?

Edit- Ok now noticing that my PH has come down again....reading 7-7.2. At this point I dunno what to do? Why is it changing so much this quickly? I have driftwood, yes, but is it enough to cause it to drop that rapidly?

 

[Dwl0222]

My gh is 5, kh is 2. Both much lower than they’d normally be. Should I remove a piece of driftwood? This didn’t happen years ago when I only had 1 in the tank, is two just too much? duanes see last 2 posts please, I could use some help

 

[duanes]

What are the GH and KH of the straight tap water?
Those numbers reflect the buffering capacity of your tap water.
The tank water GH and KH, on the other hand, will drop in conjunction with pH drop, so when pH and alkalinity drops, this info tells you when water changes are due to metabolism.
If low buffering capacity, you may need to do more water changes than the guy in a neighboring city with highly alkaline water.
Adding a crushed coral substrate sometimes helps maintain buffering capacity. or...
If the tap is low, adding a few tbsp's of baking soda in your water change water can also buffer a bit.

 

[Dwl0222]

What are the GH and KH of the straight tap water?
Those numbers reflect the buffering capacity of your tap water.
The tank water GH and KH, on the other hand, will drop in conjunction with pH drop, so when pH and alkalinity drops, this info tells you when water changes are due to metabolism.
If low buffering capacity, you may need to do more water changes than the guy in a neighboring city with highly alkaline water.
Adding a crushed coral substrate sometimes helps maintain buffering capacity. or...
If the tap is low, adding a few tbsp's of baking soda in your water change water can also buffer a bit.

From tap, the GH has been 16 and KH 12. I did just do a large water change not even 3 days ago. I’ve never had these issues in the past...I’m stumped