HIGH GLOSS WHITE -- MIXED REEF -- 100GAL
- Thread starter rusland005
- Start date
Thanks.
I was going to have it finished in High Gloss Black to begin with but like you say it has a fresh look to it and also the White hides fingerprint, smudges etc a lot better than the black. Very pleased how it's turned out so far
Tank with Coral Light tube on only.
When buying the lights from a LFS I asked to see each of the three bulbs I have turned on, so to judge what ones to go for. When this one was turned on first I initially thought this was the blue one! Very pleased with this light so far.
Tank is cloudy because I tried aquascaping the rock for the first time tonight - moving the rock and stirring up the sand a bit has caused this
Thanks for looking.
When buying the lights from a LFS I asked to see each of the three bulbs I have turned on, so to judge what ones to go for. When this one was turned on first I initially thought this was the blue one! Very pleased with this light so far.
Tank is cloudy because I tried aquascaping the rock for the first time tonight - moving the rock and stirring up the sand a bit has caused this
Thanks for looking.
My stocking plans are;
5x Green Chromis
1x Royal Gramma
2x Percula Clownfish
1x Bi colour Blenny
1x Coral Beauty
1x Yellow Tang
2x Cleaner Shrimp
1x 8 Line Wrasse
1x Mandarin fish, eventually
Going with stocking because I'm stocking LPS corals soon. Planning on going with some SPS at the start of next year (need to save up for more equipment first)
Thanks.
As for power heads?
I have 1x Vortech MP40 w Eco Smart.
At 100% this turns over 3000 GPH
Google or Youtube ''Vortech MP40"
Planning a MP10 for the other side of the tank when I start to stock LPS corals
Nice set up - very nice. For what it's worth -
I'd move the power supply as far from the water as possible, were it is currently located it may become a Lime Magnet even with the sump lid.
Cleaner wrasses and dragnets both eat large amounts of pods, I've tried this and the wrasse starved out the dragonet in a tank twice your size. I still have the wrasse but no visibal sign of pods, they used to be everywhere.
At one time in my 210 I had as many fish as your planning plus corals, it didn't work out so well for the corals. I had a hell of a time trying to keep nitrates at 20ppm usually at weeks end it was pushing 40ppm - needless to say with nitrate that high phosphates were very hard to control. I was gettin' 2-3 ppm of PO4 from the tank with ro/di water. Po4 higher than .05 and corals doesn't work out so well for the corals.
You could get away with a smaller less expensive reactor than two lil' fishes Phosban reactor. It's a large tube and tops @ 100 gal you'll use 1 cup of GFO.
Lastly - If your cycling the tank turn off the skimmer, you want the dissolved solids to decomp and fuel the nitrogen cycle.
I'd move the power supply as far from the water as possible, were it is currently located it may become a Lime Magnet even with the sump lid.
Cleaner wrasses and dragnets both eat large amounts of pods, I've tried this and the wrasse starved out the dragonet in a tank twice your size. I still have the wrasse but no visibal sign of pods, they used to be everywhere.
At one time in my 210 I had as many fish as your planning plus corals, it didn't work out so well for the corals. I had a hell of a time trying to keep nitrates at 20ppm usually at weeks end it was pushing 40ppm - needless to say with nitrate that high phosphates were very hard to control. I was gettin' 2-3 ppm of PO4 from the tank with ro/di water. Po4 higher than .05 and corals doesn't work out so well for the corals.
You could get away with a smaller less expensive reactor than two lil' fishes Phosban reactor. It's a large tube and tops @ 100 gal you'll use 1 cup of GFO.
Lastly - If your cycling the tank turn off the skimmer, you want the dissolved solids to decomp and fuel the nitrogen cycle.
