high nitrate
- Thread starter andysmith
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i have tried the fluval nitrate remover but didnt do anything i think unless you use alot of it for a big tank then i does not make a difference.
yeah i have rays in it they seem to be happy in it but i am really trying to reduce it but nothing is working its like i have hit a wall and there is nothing i can do i know i have to continue trying but i would of thought after the things i have tried it may of changed slightly but no nothing.
yeah i have rays in it they seem to be happy in it but i am really trying to reduce it but nothing is working its like i have hit a wall and there is nothing i can do i know i have to continue trying but i would of thought after the things i have tried it may of changed slightly but no nothing.
Nitrates over 60 impact immunity and over 200 shut it down. Anything in between has varying levels of impact and is rather species dependent as to what that impact is. I have never seen a study that tests the impacts on hemoglobin effects at levels under 200ppm which makes me think there isn't much of an impact under 200 in fish (not the case for mammals!)
If you did a few BIG water changes 75%, say 3 days apart, I am guessing your nitrates will be down to 50ppm by the third one. Once you have them that low measure how fast they come back up, and be ready to do a 50% water change when they hit 60 again.
With the nitrates at 60ppm, a 50% water change with the new water at 40ppm will put your tank at 50ppm. A 75% change would put it at 45ppm.
With the nitrates at 80ppm, a 50% water change with the new water at 40ppm will put your tank at 60ppm. A 75% change will put them at 50ppm.
Here's how to do the math:
What percent you change multiplied times the 40ppm in the tap ex: 50% x 40= 20
What percent you didn't change times what your previous level was 50% x 80 = 40
Add the two numbers up and that is your tank level. In this example 60ppm.
You really should try to keep your levels under 60ppm. Other than LOTs of water changes, using RO water mixed with your tap will lower the nitrates of your tap by a LOT. If you can buy RO water reasonably cheap and do 1 water change a month with a 50/50 RO/ tap mix you would be able to do fewer water changes for the rest of the month.
If you did a few BIG water changes 75%, say 3 days apart, I am guessing your nitrates will be down to 50ppm by the third one. Once you have them that low measure how fast they come back up, and be ready to do a 50% water change when they hit 60 again.
With the nitrates at 60ppm, a 50% water change with the new water at 40ppm will put your tank at 50ppm. A 75% change would put it at 45ppm.
With the nitrates at 80ppm, a 50% water change with the new water at 40ppm will put your tank at 60ppm. A 75% change will put them at 50ppm.
Here's how to do the math:
What percent you change multiplied times the 40ppm in the tap ex: 50% x 40= 20
What percent you didn't change times what your previous level was 50% x 80 = 40
Add the two numbers up and that is your tank level. In this example 60ppm.
You really should try to keep your levels under 60ppm. Other than LOTs of water changes, using RO water mixed with your tap will lower the nitrates of your tap by a LOT. If you can buy RO water reasonably cheap and do 1 water change a month with a 50/50 RO/ tap mix you would be able to do fewer water changes for the rest of the month.
i did have an ro unit but sold it as i gave me to much hassle i have seen a nitrate remover that attatches to my hose on ebay i i think i will give that a try and see if that may reduce it as well.
has anybody ever tried one before?
and thanks for the advice i will start with what you said and see if improves and keep you posted.
thanks
has anybody ever tried one before?
and thanks for the advice i will start with what you said and see if improves and keep you posted.
thanks
Is that the Purigen stuff?rhodes_96;4511386; said:Seachem matrix does, if you have enough of it.
her209;4513327; said:Is that the Purigen stuff?
NO, purigen is more for making cloudy water crystal clear and remove organic waste.
Matrix is a very efficient biological media for your filtration system. It also has nitrate removal properties.
http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Matrix.html
I just finished doing some testing with the product and results are posted.
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=354124
The inline nitrate filter you speak of is probably going to be a Nitragon or Nitraghost which is an ion exchange resin that is recharged by salt solution (this is really easy to do with a bucket and tank connector) ping me a pm if you need more info.
I have succesfully run these ON THE TANK as well and have used them with rays, they can bring down 1000 litres of water at 50ppm to under 5ppm over 24 hours and I have used these for over 10 years with total safety to the fish - we ran this by the manufacturers and many other people.
I use this for my rays a lot.
I am about to add a Deltec Nitrate reactor NFP509 as the anearobic enveironment strips the Oxygen (the O bit of NO3) and therefore converts the Nitrate back to harmless Gas, this is fed but a slow drip from the tank and you feed the bacteria on a carbon source (in my case Vodka) but you can buy the solution from them. I am using a peristaltic pump to feed around 1ml of Vodka at a time on a daily basis but you can do it manually.
People that use these generally get the Nitrate back to zero
I will monitor mine with a Redox probe to target -170mv, this way you know the oxygen level is at the correct level and can step up the supply of water to maintain this, as the Nirtate falls you can send more water through, thus treating more water.
The PH drops coming out of the reactor to about 6.5 which is fine for Rays and your water changes will dilute this a little or you can add an airsotne to the return and filter through coral sand.
I hope my long reply is of use.
I have succesfully run these ON THE TANK as well and have used them with rays, they can bring down 1000 litres of water at 50ppm to under 5ppm over 24 hours and I have used these for over 10 years with total safety to the fish - we ran this by the manufacturers and many other people.
I use this for my rays a lot.
I am about to add a Deltec Nitrate reactor NFP509 as the anearobic enveironment strips the Oxygen (the O bit of NO3) and therefore converts the Nitrate back to harmless Gas, this is fed but a slow drip from the tank and you feed the bacteria on a carbon source (in my case Vodka) but you can buy the solution from them. I am using a peristaltic pump to feed around 1ml of Vodka at a time on a daily basis but you can do it manually.
People that use these generally get the Nitrate back to zero
I will monitor mine with a Redox probe to target -170mv, this way you know the oxygen level is at the correct level and can step up the supply of water to maintain this, as the Nirtate falls you can send more water through, thus treating more water.
The PH drops coming out of the reactor to about 6.5 which is fine for Rays and your water changes will dilute this a little or you can add an airsotne to the return and filter through coral sand.
I hope my long reply is of use.
thanks for the responces everything helps i am going to order the nitrate reducer from ebay i think they are only £20 with postage it does say you can recharge it and does about 700 litres before a recharge with a tank of my size thats just over a 50% water change but i know when it is reduced i wont have to do as much if it.
with my ph drop i just put some coral gravel in a filter bag and added it to the fx5 and that has made the tank sit at a good ph level and does not fluctuate.
i know they say with nitraes to feed less but all the food i put in is snapped up straight away and with the rays they have to eat.
with my ph drop i just put some coral gravel in a filter bag and added it to the fx5 and that has made the tank sit at a good ph level and does not fluctuate.
i know they say with nitraes to feed less but all the food i put in is snapped up straight away and with the rays they have to eat.
I'm starting to question this test kit.
Have you got the same readings from two different test kits?
Although I was told there would be no math the above
looks solid. If you are not reading those results
I question the test kit's accuracy.
i.e. changing 50% with 40ppm has to reduce it. It's teh_chemistry.
Have you got the same readings from two different test kits?
Although I was told there would be no math the above
looks solid. If you are not reading those results
I question the test kit's accuracy.
i.e. changing 50% with 40ppm has to reduce it. It's teh_chemistry.
