Hit a snag need suggestions

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I've personally experienced massive temp differences based solely on ceiling insulation. My family has a series of cabins in northern Michigan. Ours has an insulated roof and remains a balmy 60-70 deg. F during the summer, while my neighbor's house (with an uninsulated roof) boils around 90 deg. F. Fiberglass insulation covered with some paneling goes a long way. Plus this gives you a clever way to hide wiring if you decide to put some central lighting in the room (assuming you don't have that).
 
seamus;2876358; said:
Possible yes but IMO, an absolute last resort. Im guessing that getting access to the trunk is not an option so the air will be coming from an addition branch line. The amount of air going to that supply will be minimal and having the t-stat in that room will cause the furnace to run forever. Considering the imbalance this would cause and the fuel cost, not something I would do. If you go this route consider a wireless t-stat.

Depending on the cost of electricity vs whatever your furnace runs as well as potential usage is electric basebaord or even a ceramic heater and option?
Listen , Ive been in this field for a long long time. I suggested using the thermostat in there if it became well insulated(or at least shared similar temperature with the house. Have you ever heard of a damper ? That would be a simple way to balance out the system. BTW how do you know how many BTU's his system has? Or his amount of pressure. I have added 6" duct runs on systems and since they had back pressure they had just as much if not more air than the other ducts. I will do my best to under stand his system before he goes with the ideas.
 
KYeasting;2876380; said:
I've personally experienced massive temp differences based solely on ceiling insulation. My family has a series of cabins in northern Michigan. Ours has an insulated roof and remains a balmy 60-70 deg. F during the summer, while my neighbor's house (with an uninsulated roof) boils around 90 deg. F. Fiberglass insulation covered with some paneling goes a long way. Plus this gives you a clever way to hide wiring if you decide to put some central lighting in the room (assuming you don't have that).
Exactly. I would reccomend he just floated some 2" or so rigid insulation on his ceilings sheet rock. It would make a huge difference.
 
tcarswell;2876824; said:
Listen , Ive been in this field for a long long time. I suggested using the thermostat in there if it became well insulated(or at least shared similar temperature with the house. Have you ever heard of a damper ? That would be a simple way to balance out the system. BTW how do you know how many BTU's his system has? Or his amount of pressure. I have added 6" duct runs on systems and since they had back pressure they had just as much if not more air than the other ducts. I will do my best to under stand his system before he goes with the ideas.

I guess you haven't been doing it long enough to see this scenario go wrong. You may have more information about the house that what is given but based on what was posted here advising to move the t-stat is irresponsible. I'm not saying you can't make it work properly but you're not doing it. Don't assume you're the only one here in the HVAC field.
 
Is the 2 inch stuff I am going to put on my ceiling, the same stuff I put under the tank?

What do you think about using a blow in insulation, could I do it just like I would a wall?

It sounds like I will have to do somehting about the ceiling.
 
I decided to rip down the ceiling and use roll on insulation.
 
seamus;2877121; said:
I guess you haven't been doing it long enough to see this scenario go wrong. You may have more information about the house that what is given but based on what was posted here advising to move the t-stat is irresponsible. I'm not saying you can't make it work properly but you're not doing it. Don't assume you're the only one here in the HVAC field.
I said to do so secondarily. Here we go. If the room is insulated as well as the rest of the house then no its not an irresponsible suggestion What I meant to say was a zone system. But thats all it was. The OP PMed me looking for advice not you I know what I am doing. Clearly putting the thermostat in the coldest room of the house is a poor idea (I even mention it would imbalance possibly). But if the temp in that room is similar its no biggie. What I was getting at but forgot to mention is a zone system. 2 thermostats one to supply heat only to that room if needed and another for the rest of the house. I am sorry are youin the HVAc field? Did I assume that ? Didnt think so,:irked:
 
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