How: Commercial/Exhibit Aquarium Construction

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charleyb123

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jan 11, 2009
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Colorado, USA
There are really good DIY threads on building with plywood, glass, and acrylic. Further, I understand many public aquariums use epoxy-coated plywood tanks with glass fronts for budgetary reasons (rather than all-acrylic). And, most of us have seen the large acrylic display windows (supported on three or four sides) for the really big displays, or for sides of tanks used by marine mammals (which by definition require big tanks).

However, I can't find much related to construction of large permanent tanks with gunite/shotcrete/concrete, including engineered footings/foundations, rebar support, insulation, placement of filtration systems, etc.

I know not everybody wants such a "permanant" tank, but it seems there are enough things different from standard (non-aquaria) pool construction, or pond construction, to warrant some threads. For example, most of those pool/pond instructions don't talk about the large "viewing pane" that we typically have for our tanks. They don't talk about the welded steel framework holding back the panes, and how they are mounted. (Embedded before the concrete is poured? Or mounted in an indentation after the concrete is poured? Sealed how? Are the public aquariums using stainless steel tubing frames for their marine tanks?)

Of course, I *have* pieced together from the MANY threads in MFK things like how much of what kind of silicone to use, and for very large tanks, to ensure I insert little rubber washers every 4" inside the silicone seal to ensure the weight of the water over time doesn't force all the silicone out of the void between the pane and the tank frame. (Nice tip! I want more of that!)

For example, I've recently been fortunate enough to have the space to make plans to construct the following tank:
(1) Build box with insulated concrete forms (ICF's), which are stay-in-place foam "forms" (like legos) that you fill with concrete (resulting in a concrete wall, with foam on each side).

(2) Line box bottom and walls with geothermal ground loops for temperature control (we'll cycle hot or cold water through here to heat or chill the tank)

(3) Line box (inside of heating/cooling loops) with rubber or PVC sheeting

(4) Set up plastic/rebar/stainless framework inside liner

(5) Shotcrete/gunite the inside of the liner, embedding the framework
This should result in a large, very strong tank that won't leak, has long life, and has VERY controlled temperature.

How big? Big.

Tropical would work great, but I'm intending marine/cold (e.g., South Austrailian coast)

HOWEVER, this still leaves a very long list of problems unique to the much larger tanks (some issues alluded in these forums), and some problems the same as for every tank, but which may manifest on a different scale.

For example, I'm still working on things like:


  • good entry/exit access to the tank (e.g., climb in/out, including shelf areas on which to place equipment, or tools accessed while in the tank). This can be quite significant, as you may need to consider simultaneous access by more than one person, both when the tank is full and empty.
  • staging areas for persons/equipment
  • storage for equipment near where used
  • plumbing (heating/cooling, adding, draining - all separate systems, possibly wanting more than one of each system)
  • power supply and distribution
  • light (including maintenance access)
  • showers (hey, you just climbed out of saltwater)
  • setbacks (so guests/children don't scratch up the acrylic or break the tank; as it turns out, a plate glass tank next to the breakfast area will eventually catch a glass plate -- who could have known? ;-)
  • contingency for tank overflows or breakage (where the water goes, what do you do with the livestock)
  • circulation plans
  • power outtage contingencies
  • emergency access contingencies (e.g., emergency "tank dump")
  • etc.
Further, we have some "orthogonal" considerations, such as viewing items on the list above in the context of "risk management/safety", in terms of "efficiency/ergonomics", in terms of "future modification/maintenance", etc.

I'm sure there are many more topics, and many more orthogonal considerations, but this should give you the idea for some of the facilities planning and "scaled concerns" that I'm assuming (that I *know*) are more important with the larger tanks.

IMHO, it would be great if we had a centralized organization of these comprehensive issues/topics.

I *LOVE* MFK, and *LOVE* the threads, and am *AMAZED* at how hard so many people work to create some of the awesome displays they have. However, for questions like many of the ones I've listed, I'm only getting a bunch of impressions, and a few anecdotal tips on "things others have done". I read *A* *LOT*, and take copious notes. But, I'm still not finding what I want.

Can you point me someplace to learn about facilities planning for large aquarium exhibits, or should I just pull it together myself and post my notes?

By default, that's where I'm headed, although I'd rather use what someone else did if that already exists. I've not built public aquarium exhibits, but I'm sure there must be people here that have, and who MUST have addressed questions like these ...

Help?

--charley
 
Zoodiver might be of some help. This is one of those topics though that's esoteric enough for any literature to be highly specialized (like if you found a book on it, it might be written as a zoology thesis or something.) I'd suggest trying a university library, or maybe even finding an industry specific periodical. Your questions are all very valid, but I imagine a lot of them answer themselves when you put the tank into a public aquarium facility (I.e. where do you put the livestock in an emergency? well they would have other tanks - a private owner would not.) Similar answers would crop up for things like showers, access, power, storage, etc.

As for your design, the only problem is that if the liner degrades over time it cannot be replaced. I think public aquaria, much like pools, use a concrete structure with the liner or sealant atop that so it can be repaired if it gets damaged. Further, with your design, the concrete would need to be sealed or cured before the tank could be used. I'm no expert, that's just what comes to mind.
 
Welcome aboard.

Jonptc's a great source, after you read all his posts, if you have question he'll try to answer them or direct you. He's had to do so much research for his projects too.

Books your not going to find, these things are put together as custom orders.

You could consider going to the horse's mouth. Find a design your interested in and talk to the aquarium director and the architect / contractor(s).

http://www.tenji.com/public.html

http://www.aquariuminnovations.com/public.html

http://www.jcdaquariumdesign.com/Pages/publications_2.html#anchor

Keep us posted on your progress in this thread so we don't loose you ;).

We'll try to help wherever we can.

Dr Joe

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Thanks! I'll keep updating on progress!

On the liner embedded within the concrete ... True, if it ages/fails over time, it will be difficult to replace. However, EPDM is supposed to have a span of 20+ years ... is there a concrete design that would do better? (All the pond designs I've seen put the liner under the concrete, where the concrete actually serves as a protective layer for the liner ...)

Yes, I'll have to do an acid wash of the concrete, and maybe epoxy on top, but I'm hoping the result is a robust tank with little structural maintenance requirements ...

Thanks for the help!
 
Newbie needs assist. Got a piece of 4' x 8' x 3/4 tempered. Have urge to build tank. This piece is the bottom. I raise Angels and African Cichlids. Got any ideas?
 
garry;3762079; said:
Newbie needs assist. Got a piece of 4' x 8' x 3/4 tempered. Have urge to build tank. This piece is the bottom. I raise Angels and African Cichlids. Got any ideas?

It's all about the "seams" ... if that piece is the bottom, will the sides be glass also, or do you want a wood/fiber-glass/concrete/cement block sides, with a viewing pane?

For glass-on-glass, I'd use straight silicone, with more in the "corners". If the glass is against pane surface against something else (e.g., glass inset into an opening in a concrete wall), then it should be glass<==>rubber washers<==>concrete, with plenty of silicone around the washers to ensure a water-tight seam.

For your piece of glass, 4'x8', make sure you have a good stand/support (flat along the sides and in the corners). Your "risk" will be based on how tall the tank is (e.g., a 12" hydraulic head is way taller than a 10" hydraulic head).
 
Hey Charley your back! Any updates on your project? Do you have a few thousand gallons of cold saltwater behind some glass?

Please post some pics or some of the data you have acquired?
 
I'm back, mostly haven't been away, mostly browse. ;-))

Short version: No, I don't have a few thousand gallons of cold saltwater behind glass.

Long version: I'm planning on getting a few thousand gallons of cold salt water behind glass! ;-))

Construction didn't really start for a variety of family and finance and permit reasons, but it's merely delayed, not canceled. The site exists, plans are still in the works, but it seems to take a long time to do this stuff <sigh>.

My aspirations keep getting bigger, which seems to somewhat "delay" groundbreaking. At present, I'm doodling a site plan for the "Hanging water gardens of Babylonia."
 
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