How long does it take for dechlor to kill chlorine ?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Some people still don't believe smoking causes lung cancer for a similar reason.

I'm referring to a very short exposure (less than 5 minutes?) of diluted amounts of chlorine (assume 25% water change) coming into contact with predosed prime (removing chlorine rapidly) as you fill. If this has been proven to be equivalent to smoking all your life then you are right.

I had that happen; so I'm a believer in the harm caused by in-tank mixing...

Your story does sound pretty convincing. Anyone else have the same happen? Maybe those with high levels of chlorine in their tap water have no choice and those with lower levels in their tap are lucky we can do it the eay way.

For me I've never had any unhappy looking fish after a water change. I always feed them immediately afterwards and they always look extremely happy. What I do is dose slowly while I fill. Many people have large aquariums in apartments which do not allow them to have an extra large barrel to premix the water. For me I am one of the lucky ones to have low chlorine levels (I assume) in my tap water so I can do it the easy way.
 
:popcorn:
 
jasoncambs;2766175; said:
a good topic ,,, someone once mentioned to me , let me think ,, something along the lines of ,, ''well the water has been sitting in my house pipes for longer than its gonna sit in a bucket ' ,

I don't think this is accurate as water pipes are heavily pressurized, that's why they use chorine! Chlorine stays stable under pressure, but when it is unpressurized and mixed with air, it dissipates! It will not lose potency in your pipes! Besides retaining sediment, the screen or "aerator" on your faucet helps mix the water with air with turbulence.

Use a pool/spa chlorine test kit to check your relative chlorine levels. mine is .3ppm! That's about what cities doses the levels at. So i know it is not losing chlorine potency, and by chance if it is, it is near nominal.
 
tcarswell;2802679; said:
werd :headbang2 getting a python and filling verrryyy slowly

Be careful! My python is 3 months old, and I keep it clean and wash it out. I used to fill my tank slow by having the inline ball vavle halfway open, but not it leaks at the lever (not the threads, its snug I assure you!) I attribute this to resistance in the water pressure putting a strain on the valve. (I have great water pressure! i think i got 1/2-1in. pipe)

Alternatly I could barely turn the faucet on....For me I can't keep a stable temp at such low flow. I check with a remote meat therm with an temp alarm. I dont know if it has to do with flow rate, resistance, faucet/ pipe diameter/volume, distance from water heater/pressure, ect. This may be a case by case basis due to these variables........
 
FreeGT;3069451; said:
Be careful! My python is 3 months old, and I keep it clean and wash it out. I used to fill my tank slow by having the inline ball vavle halfway open, but not it leaks at the lever (not the threads, its snug I assure you!) I attribute this to resistance in the water pressure putting a strain on the valve. (I have great water pressure! i think i got 1/2-1in. pipe)

Alternatly I could barely turn the faucet on....For me I can't keep a stable temp at such low flow. I check with a remote meat therm with an temp alarm. I dont know if it has to do with flow rate, resistance, faucet/ pipe diameter/volume, distance from water heater/pressure, ect. This may be a case by case basis due to these variables........
Thanks yeah I used to fill it to the top then use the lever to hold the water back then run to the sink to hit the purge and turn the water off. But I shall change my ways. Bad idea Id be better off running and turning the sink off around the time its full.
 
good thread, I usually use double dose and then fill up with water and in between do another small dose just in case. no problems at all.
 
I double dose in case I have an ammonia or nitrite spike in my tap water (Pretty rare) But my nitrates are at 20-30 from the faucet and I believe prime helps that. I also believe by double dosing and distributing the dechlor all across the water surface before filling allows it to dechlorinate faster. I also leave my 405 on without its nozzle and my eheim with its spraybar and I have two large airstones. I feel safe running a python now :)
 
I do witness a small amount of fish stress during water changes but not enough for concern. I watch my fish a lot and I know when they are stressed. The water here is just chlorine luckily.
 
i know this is an old thread but i wanted to add my 2 cents. instead of all this bickering and claims of "research" supporting one way or another, why dont' you all just do a water change and test to see how much chlorine is in the water afterwards without adding any conditioner? i'm sure everyone has chlorine tests being the experts that we all claim to be. i think doing a 10-15% water change is not even enough to warrant needing more conditioner as the chlorine gets so diluted is is basically non existent. even a 50% water change is going to yield half the chlorine concentration from your tap, so even if it does take 15 mins like some claim for the conditioner to work your fish are fine just the same. before anyone flames or adds a rebuttal, do the test and see for yourself.
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com